After I remodeled my bedroom I found a bunch of clothes I haven't seen let alone worn in years. Styles now passé, redundant articles long since replaced, unaccounted for stains all meant I was headed to Goodwill with Hefty bags stuffed with clothes.
I did keep a few t shirts. I underwent some drastic weight loss due to my diabetic condition. So now, some of those shirts from years gone by now fit like a glove. My new old favorite is from a place called Ralph. Ralph, if this t shirt is to be believed, is the King of the Laundry and Dry Cleaners. His prices cannot be beat and he offers free delivery.
I patronized Ralph when I had a project in sunny Naples, Italy. The U.S. Navy maintains a base there. On this base is a high school for the service men and women's children. When they designed this high school, they put the cafeteria/gymnasium underground with a playground, painted concrete with a soccer pitch, was built on the surface out in the Neopolitan sun. Then, in order to keep the noise of the cafeteria somewhat muffled, they sprayed asbestos containing insulation on the concrete ceiling and walls.
This, as it turns out, was a very bad idea and by 1990 they decided to correct it. That's why I was in sunny Naples getting my laundry done at Ralph, the King of the Laundry and Dry Cleaning.
Civilians like me are given a military designation something like a fake rank. This is so any materials or personnel can be transported with less effort on military flights servicing the base. My designation was G5. My understanding was that it is equivalent to a Naval Commander. Plus, I got privileges at the Navy Exchange.
The crew doing the actual work of removing the asbestos came from Milan. My job was to conduct air monitoring to make sure the asbestos dust was properly contained. I also kept records of the work completed, met with base officials, kept the school staff calm and take in as much of the local culture as I could.
I made a point of lunching with the crew everyday. I was as interested in them and their culture as they were with me and America. Two of the crew spoke passable English and served as translators between me and the other Italian crew members. They plied me with questions about family life in America. Family is the top priority among the Italians I met.
The other priority was rock and roll music and how to make it louder from their Fiats and Opels. Opel, by the way, marketed a compact car they called the T-Shirt. Knowing I had some sway and NEX privledges, they began to ask me to buy them car stereos and speakers at the Navy Exchange. They sold American products used by American servicemen and therefore, prized among the Italians.
I realized that if I bought four car stereos and six sets of Jansen speakers, my exchange privledges might come into question. So, I started buying them popular American rock and roll groups on cassette tape. To this day I can't hear The Black Crowes without thinking about the same music disrupting the peace and quiet of Milanese neighborhoods.
One weekend I decided to drive back up to Rome and do some sight seeing. All I saw of Rome my first day in Italy was the airport, some roadside prostitutes, confusing highway signs and the exit ramp. Rome, just a few hours drive north, laced there tempting me. Me. A guy who took three years of high school Latin. Me. A guy who owned every film by Fredrick Fellini.
So I got into the car at 7:00 Saturday morning and drove passed Monte Casino where the Germans held up the advance of our troops in 1944. I saw the Appian Way and aqueduct. I saw olive groves and fishermen casting nets for anchovies. Finally, four hours later, I arrived at the outskirts of Rome.
The first place I wanted to see was Vatican City. I'm not Roman Catholic, but I wanted to see the Sistine Chapel which had recently been completely restored. I found a parking spot, no easy task, and strode into St. Peter's square. Magnificent! That's the best word for that experience. A. Agnificent space bathed in magnificent light and surrounded by a magnificent colonnade.
And there stood the basilica. I shouldered my backpack and climbed the steps from the square to the front portico of the basilica. As I approached the massive bronze doors I was stopped by a Swiss Guard. The Swiss Guard is a bit of serendipity. They are actually Swiss. Their uniforms were designed by Michaelangelo no less. They actually hold piles as weapons.
"No!" He said as he put his pike between me and the door.
"I beg your pardon?" I asked with a mixture of incredulity and trepidation.
"American?" He further asked.
"Si, American." I answered.
"No shorts in the Vatican."
I looked around. Into the Vatican went a lovely young woman in a dress so short that her butt cheeks were 'prominent'. With her was a little Scandinavian looking Pop squeak wearing a net wife beater and tie died spandex pants so tight I could tell that he was not Jewish.
At the time, I carried about fifty extra pounds. I gestured toward the less than discretelydressed couple and asked the Swiss Guard "if I get a pair of pants like that, can I then get inside the basilica?"
"Yeah, sure" came hi answer.
"Look, pal. The last thing you want is someone like me wrapped in spandex waddling around inside St. Peter's."
He shrugged. So I walked about three blocks away and found a souvenir shop. I bought a pair of sweatpants with "ROMA!" Stenciled down the leg. In spite of the Roman heat that August day, I donned the new long pants and confidently walked passed by Swiss adversary and into St. Peter's.
My breath was taken away. I stood inside and actually muttered to myself "Jesus Christ!" And then I thought "Well, yeah."
I don't know how many of you are golfers. I measured the distance from the front door to the high altar as a hard seven iron, an easy six if the wind was with me. To my right stood Michaelangelo's Pieta. Marble honed to the texture and suppleness of human skin. I was transfixed, I was gobsmacked. Little confessionals lined the nave each with a little sign designating the language spoken by the priest waiting inside with absolution. Nuns and monks clad in medieval habits and robes silently walked the polishe marble floor. Light from the windows surrounding the famous dome flooded the interior in golds and bright white.
And I sweated with "ROMA!" along my left leg.