I'm tired of anemic guitar amps!

KT-88's going in Tuesday.
Boom! That is the big move. I'd go easy on them for a dozen hours or so until they get broke in before pushing them real hard.

It'll take another week to finish the front panel wiring.
You've been quiet, hard at work, this is time for attention to details and worrying about showing the results later when finished.

Patience grasshopper, you will be rewarded. :p
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So I ran out of solder, so I went across the street to go get some, and the guy hands me a green tube of Kester. I'm staring at it, 'cause I never seen a green Kester before, the guy goes "it's new, lead free". Okay, I get it, green environmentally friendly lead free. So I'm like hmm... "got any of the old stuff left?" Guy says "maybe a roll or two", I go "I'll take everything you've got". :p

So here I am, back at the bench, and I'm looking at the green solder to figure out what the difference is. Instead of 60/40 tin and lead it's 90% tin, 5% silver, and 5% copper. No lead. Well ... it doesn't flow right, because the core doesn't have the rosin in it, usually they put some flux in it to help the lead flow, but this core is entirely different, in fact I'll betcha five bucks right now the stuff will corrode in the field in a year or two, cause it smells like acid.

I tried it on a couple of the resistors I pulled out of the power chain. The green solder dries real fast, you can see it solidifying, but what's left is dirty, there's some black crud all over it (from the core, probably), and it doesn't shine like a good solid Kester 44 joint. So I'm just throwing it away. I have three rolls and two tubes of the 44, which has been an industry standard ever since I've been alive, I'm gonna stay with that. No one has ever gotten lead poisoning from soldering.
 
So I ran out of solder, so I went across the street to go get some, and the guy hands me a green tube of Kester. I'm staring at it, 'cause I never seen a green Kester before, the guy goes "it's new, lead free". Okay, I get it, green environmentally friendly lead free. So I'm like hmm... "got any of the old stuff left?" Guy says "maybe a roll or two", I go "I'll take everything you've got". :p

So here I am, back at the bench, and I'm looking at the green solder to figure out what the difference is. Instead of 60/40 tin and lead it's 90% tin, 5% silver, and 5% copper. No lead. Well ... it doesn't flow right, because the core doesn't have the rosin in it, usually they put some flux in it to help the lead flow, but this core is entirely different, in fact I'll betcha five bucks right now the stuff will corrode in the field in a year or two, cause it smells like acid.

I tried it on a couple of the resistors I pulled out of the power chain. The green solder dries real fast, you can see it solidifying, but what's left is dirty, there's some black crud all over it (from the core, probably), and it doesn't shine like a good solid Kester 44 joint. So I'm just throwing it away. I have three rolls and two tubes of the 44, which has been an industry standard ever since I've been alive, I'm gonna stay with that. No one has ever gotten lead poisoning from soldering.

Don't use that green shit. No idea how it might affect your project years from now and you don't want to have to go in there in a few years fixing all of it.

Environmentally friendly? I never new solder joints on boards were a problem for the environment. For one thing--- tiny drops; the other being that most all electronics go back to a factory now where they take it apart, collect up precious metals and dispose of stuff compartmentally and safely anyway.

I actually use TeleCore Plus made by Alpha Metals. I get the real thin stuff in 1 pound spools, I think .020, very easy to control the flow. Great stuff, excellent solder, higher conductivity, and it is 100% made in the USA.
 
So here's with most of the panel wiring in place. You can see the bank of coupling caps, and right behind it is a rotary switch that controls the character of the clipping

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The master section is already mounted "on" the front panel, which is a whole separate story for a separate post.

As promised, tomorrow's porn will feature the KT-88's. First step is finding a matching pair and getting them biased. After that we connect the NFB to make sure we're phased properly.

In addition to the presence control which works on the high frequency end of the NFB, this amp will also have a resonance control to help dial in the thump on the low frequency side. The principal of it is easy: you put a 1 meg pot in parallel with a .005 capacitor, and that whole thing goes in series with the NFB resistor. The high frequency feedback goes through the cap unmolested whereas the low frequency feedback gets cut by the pot.
 
So here's with most of the panel wiring in place. You can see the bank of coupling caps, and right behind it is a rotary switch that controls the character of the clipping

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View attachment 1165280

The master section is already mounted "on" the front panel, which is a whole separate story for a separate post.

As promised, tomorrow's porn will feature the KT-88's. First step is finding a matching pair and getting them biased. After that we connect the NFB to make sure we're phased properly.

In addition to the presence control which works on the high frequency end of the NFB, this amp will also have a resonance control to help dial in the thump on the low frequency side. The principal of it is easy: you put a 1 meg pot in parallel with a .005 capacitor, and that whole thing goes in series with the NFB resistor. The high frequency feedback goes through the cap unmolested whereas the low frequency feedback gets cut by the pot.
Whole lotta switching going on.

I have so many amps to work on that NEED attention and I can't even manage to get my bench set up the way I want to.

Good on you, scruffy
 
So here's with most of the panel wiring in place.
Looks real tasty.

As promised, tomorrow's porn will feature the KT-88's.
Nothing beats a big, ol' fat tube! Glowing bottles of electrons!

In addition to the presence control which works on the high frequency end of the NFB, this amp will also have a resonance control to help dial in the thump on the low frequency side.
I love it. Controlled electronic distortion! It would be nice to be there when it is fired up and played for the first time.
 
KT-88 porn.

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However there's a problem. My bias gadget appears to be broken. Now the choice is install some 1 ohm resistors or get a new bias meter. Not sure which is faster. Resistors take 3 business days...
 
KT-88 porn.

However there's a problem. My bias gadget appears to be broken. Now the choice is install some 1 ohm resistors or get a new bias meter. Not sure which is faster. Resistors take 3 business days...

Just get the new bias meter and be done with it.
 
And... we have audio! 👍

A pair of KT-88's are very freakin loud! :dev3:

So let me introduce you to this amp. Natively, you get a preamp and a power amp, that's it. The preamp has two 12ax7 stages with a gain control between them. It's clean all the way up. At maximum gain a Les Paul will be "just" on the edge of crunch and a Strat will be clean.The power amp is ultralinear KT-88 with 570 volts on the plates (and 560 on the screens). It has 12 dB of negative feedback (enough to make the presence control work). The preamp has WAY more gain than is needed to drive the power amp, so in this mode you're operating like a 100 watt Tweed, and the only way to get crunch is to dial up the output beyond maximum power. And even then the ultralinear amp isn't really designed to be massively overdriven, it's supposed to stay clean all the way up. The screen resistors are only 250 ohms so there's not much sag. It's a loud, clean amp this way, without even a tone stack. Just a passive tone control if you want it - but here's the neat part, all the bells and whistles still work in this mode. Like, the switch for the cathode cap still works. You can adjust how fat or how skinny you want your 100 watt Tweed to sound.

From here, you have several jumping off points. For one thing, you can make the amp "more like a Fender" and in fact you can trace the entire history of Fender designs by just flipping a few switches. You can start by activating the up-front tone stack, which most modern Fenders (after 1965) have. Also you can activate the reverb section if you wish, the reverb is lush like a Twin.

A different direction is making the amp sound "more like a Marshall". As most people know the Marshall designs were inspired by Leo Fender's 5F6-A Bassman, which has several unique features not usually found in Fender amps. For one thing they put the tone stack behind the preamp and used a cathode follower to drive it. The cathode follower is what gives Marshalls their characteristics crunch. Another important change is one of the gain stages operates like a cold clipper, it has a large unbypassed cathode resistance that only clips half the signal. To make this KT-88 amp sound like a Marshall, start over from the Tweed configuration and turn on stages 4 and 5, then activate the in-back tone stack. Now you have exactly a Marshall.

To get a Soldano SLO, add stage 3 to the Marshall configuration. This gives you extra gain and changes the voicing in favor of the articulation needed for lead shredding.

In any of these modes, you can use the Presence and Resonance controls to alter the feedback profile. Resonance gives you thump and Presence gives you upper midrange. So for instance, an emphatic country & western sound can be gotten from the clean Tweed configuration by dialing in a little thump and some upper midrange.
 
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And... we have audio! 👍

A pair of KT-88's are very freakin loud! :dev3:

So let me introduce you to this amp. Natively, you get a preamp and a power amp, that's it. The preamp has two 12ax7 stages with a gain control between them. It's clean all the way up. At maximum gain a Les Paul will be "just" on the edge of crunch and a Strat will be clean.The power amp is ultralinear KT-88 with 570 volts on the plates (and 560 on the screens). It has 12 dB of negative feedback (enough to make the presence control work). The preamp has WAY more gain than is needed to drive the power amp, so in this mode you're operating like a 100 watt Tweed, and the only way to get crunch is to dial up the output beyond maximum power. And even then the ultralinear amp isn't really designed to be massively overdriven, it's supposed to stay clean all the way up. The screen resistors are only 250 ohms so there's not much sag. It's a loud, clean amp this way, without even a tone stack. Just a passive tone control if you want it - but here's the neat part, all the bells and whistles still work in this mode. Like, the switch for the cathode cap still works. You can adjust how fat or how skinny you want your 100 watt Tweed to sound.

From here, you have several jumping off points. For one thing, you can make the amp "more like a Fender" and in fact you can trace the entire history of Fender designs by just flipping a few switches. You can start by activating the up-front tone stack, which most modern Fenders (after 1965) have. Also you can activate the reverb section if you wish, the reverb is lush like a Twin.

A different direction is making the amp sound "more like a Marshall". As most people know the Marshall designs were inspired by Leo Fender's 5F6-A Bassman, which has several unique features not usually found in Fender amps. For one thing they put the tone stack behind the preamp and used a cathode follower to drive it. The cathode follower is what gives Marshalls their characteristics crunch. Another important change is one of the gain stages
Watching vids on Cathode followers now.
 
And... we have audio! 👍
A pair of KT-88's are very freakin loud!

Sounds great! (as it were). I like all these added features and versatility--- sounds like something I might have added in myself--- just too bad we don't get to hear and play with it, but I'll look forward to seeing completed pictures of the thing so I can better visualize it all.

.
 
Watching vids on Cathode followers now.
Use a cathode follower whenever you need a low impedance source. The prototypical application is driving a tone stack. The Marshall 5f6a flavor is "DC coupled" to the gain stage just before it. Yoú can set this up any way you want, the breakup of a cathode follower sounds different from the breakup of a gain stage, so you can use them both in order or whatever works best for you.
 
Watching vids on Cathode followers now.
Here's a helpful link on DC coupled cathode followers.


So now let me introduce you to the other personality of this amp, as a high gain monster. In the basic Tweed configuration, everything is "out", it's all bypassed. But normally, unless you pull knobs, everything is "in". You have three gain stages, followed by a cold clipper, and then two DC coupled cathode followers in a row. The reverb is between the two cathode followers, and the effects loop is before the reverb.

As a player, you want your amp to be responsive, but we also know you're going to set it up for a basic sound then put pedals in front of it. If you're a high gain player you have two essential ranges of expression, which you'd like to be able to control with the volume knob on your guitar. These are clean-to-crunch, and dirty-to-searing-lead. You'll rarely use both modes in the same song (although it does happen, and when it does the transition should involve no more than a single switch, or a single foot switch).

The idea with high gain amps is to carefully control (tonally) what goes into the overdrive and what comes out, as well as the character of the distortion. The problem is you can't do it all at once, you have to do it in stages. Each stage will create some fizz that you'll want to get rid of, because high gain is a lot about the mids. And you can't be too brutal in any given stage because of the pedals, some pedals will literally blow up poorly designed high gain amps.

In this amp, you get three ordinary 12ax7 gain stages in a row. Each has a gain of about 80, so they'll take your 5 mV guitar signal up to about 200 volts. Why would we want to do this? Well, it's because of what comes next. There's a cold clipper and two cathode followers, and those three things together constitute the "high gain" section of the amp. You have to drive them to high levels to get the good behavior and the good sounding distortion. For instance the cold clipper in maximum clipping mode has a gain of less than 1, it's around .9 or so - and we want it to clip robustly so we have to give it a lot of signal to push it up to that point. Figure with a 300 volt supply you'll get a 100 volt swing before clipping, and if the gain is less than 1 that means you'll need to drive it with more than 100 volts!

This is why there are 3 gain stages before the cold clipper, we want to make sure there's enough signal to clip. However there are level controls between each stage, because the front part of each cathode follower will have a gain of about 60 so we don't need as much signal to push them up into overdrive.

The second cathode follower is also the reverb recovery amp, so you can get crunch on your reverb if you want - which is a different sound from overdriving the springs, and again you can mix and match to find out what works.

The levels are set up so switching in Stage 3 takes you into high-gain land. That's all you have to do, flip that one switch. In low gain mode you get a completely clean sound when the volume control on your guitar is about at 3, and a respectable crunchy southern rock sound at 10. When you flip the switch to engage Stage 3, you start at Lynyrd Skynyrd, Black Sabbath is about halfway, and as you keep raising the level the extreme frequencies get cut and the output becomes more mid-centric.
 
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So then, the layout of the front panel is very easy, very logical. You can think of it as a linear chain of 7 stages:

1 => 2 => 3 => 4 => 5 => reverb => master

These correspond to vertical slices of the front panel, each slice has 3 knobs.

Stages 1 & 2 are "always on", they're the only stages that aren't switchable. And of course the master section is always on too, but the master tone stack can be switched out leaving only the master volume control. So at minimum you have two preamp stages with a gain control between them, then a master volume control, and a power amp.

Everything else is switchable, and everything that's switchable has its own level control. This way you can use the switchable stages in different combinations and be precise with the behaviors. For example - the easiest variation is just to turn on stage 3. Stages 1 and 2 by themselves take the guitar signal up to about 10-20 volts, so bringing in stage 3 is going to push it up into overdrive and you'll get "preamp clipping" which approximately resembles the sound of a fuzz box. How much of that you get, can be very pleasing to the ear, so you have to play with the preamp gain to get the right response from stage 3, and then use the master volume to compensate for any changes in level.

Besides that, stages 1, 2, and 3 are set up in a tonal cascade to shape the sound for the subsequent overdrive and clipping. In stage 1 you can reduce the amount of bass to get a cleaner less muddy basic signal. In stage 2 you have an actual tone stack, and whatever comes out of that is what will get overdriven. In stage 3 you can select the coupling cap to further reduce the amount of bass in the overdriven result, and it just so happens that this combination sounds real sweet and has great response properties from the player's standpoint - but its other purpose is to prep the signal for the subsequent mangling by the cold clipper and two sequential cathode followers.

It should be noted that you can run any of the stages clean, none of them "have to" be overdriven. Keeping everything clean will give you an infinite variety of responsiveness and tone. All you do is turn down the levels between stages. With the cold clipper in stage 4 you can set the cathode resistor to 5k which will give you several volts of headroom before clipping begins. The clean mode is great for getting clarity from a crunchy reverb, you keep everything clean except the reverb recovery levels, and that way you can easily shape the result. For clean reverb, turn down the recovery levels and turn up the master volume. Very logical. The amp has a bit of a learning curve but once you know how to use it, it becomes very powerful.
 
15th post
I decided to build another amp, using the iron from the original AIMS circuit.

Call it ... a "practice amp". No frills, just an ordinary amp. One input, one output, and a tone stack in between.

The PT delivers 620 volts DC, which in the original design they put directly on the screens of some 6550's, and that won't work in today's world. So we'll have to use KT-88's instead, and put the bias tap through a voltage doubler.

I'll build it inside a Marshall small box head. It has just enough room. Industry standard 12at7 phase inverter will provide enough drive if it's run at 450 volts. The OT is 5k p-p into 6 ohms, it's rated at 100 watts and will handle the 600 volts. I'll probably use a choke, maybe 5H at 150 mils or so.

This practice amp will be for fretless bass, so it'll have slightly different tone stack values. Other than that though, it's vanilla. I can probably throw this together in two days if I don't have to do much chassis work. Beats having used transformers lying around (what else am I going to do with them? Put them in storage?)
 
Let's take a quick look at costs.

The most expensive piece of this whole effort is the case and the knobs and the other stuff you'd consider "cosmetic". The cheapest case that will fit a minimal KT-88 power section is about 450 bucks. For that you get a Marshall small box head cabinet, a pre drilled chassis, faceplate, backplate, and mounting hardware from MojoTone. I opted to use a vintage AIMS chassis and cabinet because of the large front panel and extra chassis space - I paid 600 for that, but I got a whole set of Amperex tubes and enough iron for a while 'nother amp.

The output section by itself is cheaper than the case! A matched pair of KT-88's is about 130 bucks, the Antek power transformer is 85 dollars, the Hammond OT is 130 dollars, and two filter caps (300 uF at 385 volts each) are 25 each, plus you have two toggle switches (power and standby) and two fuses and a few terminal strips and miscellaneous hardware and such.

Then for the rest of it, the major expenses are the tubes (# preamp tubes x 20 bucks each) and the front panel pots and switches. If you're going to make everything neat and pretty and new, the total parts cost for the entire amp would be around 1500 bucks. (You'll need a reverb tank, lots of knobs, etc).

The good news is, in 1980 you could have gotten the Dumble equivalent for 3800 bucks. Today it would be 8 grand. It's about 4 weeks full time work if you have to drill the chassis, maybe three if you don't.
 
The most expensive piece of this whole effort is the case and the knobs and the other stuff you'd consider "cosmetic". The cheapest case that will fit a minimal KT-88 power section is about 450 bucks. I opted to use a vintage AIMS chassis and cabinet because of the large front panel and extra chassis space - I paid 600 for that,

I guess this is where resources differ---- if you had a basic machine shop with sheet metal brake and a few other tools, making the chassis and case are among the easiest and most fun parts of the job! That way, you can design the case around your parts needs, ideal spacing, knob and switch layout, etc., ending with a case ideal to your needs and preferences that you get to look at and play with!
 
I guess this is where resources differ---- if you had a basic machine shop with sheet metal brake and a few other tools, making the chassis and case are among the easiest and most fun parts of the job! That way, you can design the case around your parts needs, ideal spacing, knob and switch layout, etc., ending with a case ideal to your needs and preferences that you get to look at and play with!
Okay, the front panel will show you why this amp needed real estate. (I'll post better pics tomorrow, I'm in the middle of installing the reverb tank just now).

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So here you can see the front and back of it. The knob spacing is "comfortable" for old school chicken head knobs.

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Only the signal path works so far, it'll be a while for every last bell and whistle. The middle row of pots with the blue wires pull out to enable and disable stages, and serve as volume controls for same. There are 6 stages, if you consider that 1&2 are always in and function as a unit. If you pull out all the middle knobs you bypass all the gain stages to get the loud clean Tweed mode.

Just finished the third pass on the power chain, the PT delivers 570 vdc no-load, but it drops to 535 under load. KT's are beautifully matched at 52 mA each corresponding to -88 volts bias, the bias is very stable and only changes 1 volt under load. So quiescent load is 535v * (104 mA + 40 mA), where the 40 is current for "everything else", so just under 80 watts with no signal. Under load, the first power chain resistor comes in exactly as calculated (you may remember the earlier post, 1.8k to get 450 volts for the driver, which also guarantees the first filter cap won't blow up when all the tubes are pulled, because that and six 220k bleeder resistors in parallel keep the voltage under 500).

At this point all stages except the reverb are working (because the tank isn't in yet). So we could make notes on usage. For instance - the cold clipper is biased so cold it'll cut off the bottom half of your signal starting at about 4 volts. So how you set the immediately preceding stage 3 is vitally important. Stage 3 is a mondo gain stage, it'll take your guitar signal to 100 volts p-p (with a considerable amount of distortion), but obviously clipping a square wave isn't going to have much effect, so the useful range of stage 3 is between 4 volts and when the clipper starts overdriving (which starts clipping the top half of the signal too). Generally you want to set it clean when the clipper is bypassed, and when you bring the clipper in you should get a healthy growl. Typically this occurs at about 20 volts of signal, which is about the max before positive peak clipping. And, this is way too much to drive the cathode follower, you probably want about a tenth of that to get a nice fat Black Sabbath sound. So you can play with the levels to get the behavior you want. It is entirely possible to cascade through the stages using only the volume knob on your guitar. When it's at 2 you want to be below the clipper's 4 volt threshold so you can get a completely clean sound, and when it's at 10 you set the cathode follower for the amount of gain you want. In between you get different flavors of crunch depending on how you set your clipper. With a high cathode resistance you'll get plenty of grunge but without the long sustain associated with overdrive, so there will be a lot of stage 4 headroom before the cathode follower kicks in. With a lower clipper resistance though, you can start getting some overdrive the minute you exceed the 4v clipping threshold, and it'll just get more intense as you continue raising the volume. Each mode works well with different kinds of pedals. And the effects loop has a similar kind of flexibility, either independently or in conjunction with the gain stages.
 
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