Post your car questions here

[Paulie]

We don't have a local NAPA, and AutoZone kisses my ass lol. But you DO have to be careful about the Duralast parts. Some are good, some are not.

Airtex and another brand I can't remember (possibly duralast) make the shittiest fucking fuel pumps I've ever had the displeasure of using.

They're notorious for failing after about 6 months.

I don't get why consumers continue to give these companies credibility by buying those pieces of shit. I guess it's becuase the difference in price between them and the OEM part is a couple hundred dollars

Exactly. If the difference was even 50% I would happily go to the dealer for OEM parts. But I know for my VW, the difference is sometimes 2-300%. As an example brake rotors from Auto Zone or Napa, $40. From the VW dealer, $120.

Of course anyone who has used those Auto Zone rotors will tell you they are shit. But when you can put 3 of them on for the price of 1 from the dealer....

I usually try to get my parts online and can often find the OEM brands a lot cheaper than dealer parts.

I like Rockauto.com for parts. You can get economy brand parts, all the way up the ladder to OEM.

Easy to change parts I don't mind going generic, but if a part is hard to access and takes hours to fix it might be worth it to get OEM to avoid having to do that same time consuming repair in 6 months.

 

[Jarlaxle]

We don't have a local NAPA, and AutoZone kisses my ass lol. But you DO have to be careful about the Duralast parts. Some are good, some are not.

Airtex and another brand I can't remember (possibly duralast) make the shittiest fucking fuel pumps I've ever had the displeasure of using.

They're notorious for failing after about 6 months.

I don't get why consumers continue to give these companies credibility by buying those pieces of shit. I guess it's becuase the difference in price between them and the OEM part is a couple hundred dollars

Exactly. If the difference was even 50% I would happily go to the dealer for OEM parts. But I know for my VW, the difference is sometimes 2-300%. As an example brake rotors from Auto Zone or Napa, $40. From the VW dealer, $120.

Of course anyone who has used those Auto Zone rotors will tell you they are shit. But when you can put 3 of them on for the price of 1 from the dealer....

I usually try to get my parts online and can often find the OEM brands a lot cheaper than dealer parts.

AZ's Duralast rotors aren't bad...I've used them. Then again, dealer parts often aren't any better & probably come out of the same Chinese foundry.

 

[Paulie]

Airtex and another brand I can't remember (possibly duralast) make the shittiest fucking fuel pumps I've ever had the displeasure of using.

They're notorious for failing after about 6 months.

I don't get why consumers continue to give these companies credibility by buying those pieces of shit. I guess it's becuase the difference in price between them and the OEM part is a couple hundred dollars

Exactly. If the difference was even 50% I would happily go to the dealer for OEM parts. But I know for my VW, the difference is sometimes 2-300%. As an example brake rotors from Auto Zone or Napa, $40. From the VW dealer, $120.

Of course anyone who has used those Auto Zone rotors will tell you they are shit. But when you can put 3 of them on for the price of 1 from the dealer....

I usually try to get my parts online and can often find the OEM brands a lot cheaper than dealer parts.

AZ's Duralast rotors aren't bad...I've used them. Then again, dealer parts often aren't any better & probably come out of the same Chinese foundry.

Rotors are easy enough to do that it's not a big deal to go cheaper. There's no other moving parts on a rotor, there's no electronics involved, it's just a fixed item...the life of that kind of part is always going to be at least a couple years, whereas something like a fuel pump can go in 6 months. And fuel pumps are in fuel tanks nowadays, so the job is not easy to perform...you have to drop the tank, undo fuel lines sometimes, deal with wiring, etc. Not all DIY mechanics can handle that task.

 

[Book of Jeremiah]

I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.

As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.

Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.

That is very generous of you, JustTheFacts! If I can think of something I'll ask!

 

[Missourian]

Is it possible that any cooler car exists than the 1971-1973 'boat tail' Buick Riviera?

For flat out cool factor , I'll take a '61 Lincoln Continental convertible with suicide door

Even though it's not may favorite car out there, it just screams cool.

'66 Olds Toronado.

 

[Underhill]

Airtex and another brand I can't remember (possibly duralast) make the shittiest fucking fuel pumps I've ever had the displeasure of using.

They're notorious for failing after about 6 months.

I don't get why consumers continue to give these companies credibility by buying those pieces of shit. I guess it's becuase the difference in price between them and the OEM part is a couple hundred dollars

Exactly. If the difference was even 50% I would happily go to the dealer for OEM parts. But I know for my VW, the difference is sometimes 2-300%. As an example brake rotors from Auto Zone or Napa, $40. From the VW dealer, $120.

Of course anyone who has used those Auto Zone rotors will tell you they are shit. But when you can put 3 of them on for the price of 1 from the dealer....

I usually try to get my parts online and can often find the OEM brands a lot cheaper than dealer parts.

AZ's Duralast rotors aren't bad...I've used them. Then again, dealer parts often aren't any better & probably come out of the same Chinese foundry.

A bit of background. My Scion TC that I bought new didn't need new brakes until the 85k mile mark. I am very easy on brakes. Drive only manual transmission cars and use engine braking when I can. I also drive almost exclusively in the country. My daily commute consist of 2 stop lights and a stop sign in my 20 mile each way trip.

But I replaced the rotors on my Jeep Wrangler twice from Auto Zone in 20k miles after they warped severely. So I swapped to a set of good quality (read expensive) after market rotors and never had a problem again.

It could be that vehicle, it could be specific to those rotors. But I suspect the problem with rotors boils down to material quality. As an engineer I can tell you the difference steel quality can make is significant in something subjected to high heat (as rotors are). And for a set of rotors to warp that quickly means either a) they are undersized for the vehicle or b) the material is inferior. (or I suppose the calipers could be bad, which was not the case here..)

I'm thinking it's B since the upgraded rotors never gave me a problem.

But I'm willing to concede I could have just gotten a bad batch or something.

 

[Underhill]

Is it possible that any cooler car exists than the 1971-1973 'boat tail' Buick Riviera?

For flat out cool factor , I'll take a '61 Lincoln Continental convertible with suicide door

Even though it's not may favorite car out there, it just screams cool.

'66 Olds Toronado.

Always been a fan of the late 1940's Buicks... Love those grills.

 

[KissMy]

A bit of background. My Scion TC that I bought new didn't need new brakes until the 85k mile mark. I am very easy on brakes. Drive only manual transmission cars and use engine braking when I can. I also drive almost exclusively in the country. My daily commute consist of 2 stop lights and a stop sign in my 20 mile each way trip.

But I replaced the rotors on my Jeep Wrangler twice from Auto Zone in 20k miles after they warped severely. So I swapped to a set of good quality (read expensive) after market rotors and never had a problem again.

It could be that vehicle, it could be specific to those rotors. But I suspect the problem with rotors boils down to material quality. As an engineer I can tell you the difference steel quality can make is significant in something subjected to high heat (as rotors are). And for a set of rotors to warp that quickly means either a) they are undersized for the vehicle or b) the material is inferior. (or I suppose the calipers could be bad, which was not the case here..)

I'm thinking it's B since the upgraded rotors never gave me a problem.

But I'm willing to concede I could have just gotten a bad batch or something.

Your brake is not properly releasing, dragging the pads on the rotors causing excessive heat. Replace your brake hoses, clean & lube caliper slides & bolts. If it does it again, replace caliper.

 

[KissMy]

Thanks I will keep that in mind...
When I have some more time, may have to consult you about a 2002 Taurus with an idle problem.

I have seen a few bad Ford Idle Air Control (IAC) Motors. Could also be a manifold gasket or vacuum leak. Some vehicles you have to remove negative battery cable & let sit for 20 minutes to clear memory & then drive it for 20 minutes so it can re-learn idle.

 

[uscitizen]

What is the resistance of a 7V alternator powered Ford electric choke coil vs a 12 volt one?
I have a rebuilt carb and it does not say the voltage on it but it is slow to open and the heat tube is good and so is the vacuum port for it.
Pull off adjusted properly of course.

Did I miss your answer on this?

 

[KissMy]

Because the way the system works, and this is pretty standard anymore is that the fuel injectors won't fire unless and until the crankshaft position sensor sends a go signal to the engine computer and the engine computer relays that signal to the fuel injectors.

So what happens is that when a CPS starts failing it begins to randomly not send the appropriate signal and so the vehicle will crank but not turn over. Eventually it will not send the signal at all.

His technician can easily verify this either with a scanner by simply going into the datastream and checking the CPS voltate or by using a multimeter to manually test the voltage at the CPS. It' a simple 2 wire sensor. One wire has a 5V reference and is always hot , the other is the wire that signals the ECU that engine has been cranked over, it should have around 5 volts when cranking , if it's < 3.6V the sensor is definitely bad.

99 out of 100 times it is this sensor. No guarantees diagnosing it over the internet. But that' my thought.

I'm an electronic technician by trade and have my own digital multi-meter. Is it something I can check? If so, where is it located and which wires should I check?

Yes , you could test it and probably even change it if need be by yourself.

The crankshaft position sensor is located on the lower right front of the engine. Down by the crankshaft pulley itself.

here is a generic sensor, they all look similar.

there are two wires. Can't remember for sure, but I think they are Dark Blue and the other is Gray. I can look it up if you need me to.

The Gray I believe is the reference wire. Should have 5V at all times, the other is the signal that should put out around 5V when the engine is cranked.

If it needs to be changed, its a simple unplug electrical connector, remove two 10mm bolts and gently pry sensor out of engine.

Reverse to install, but be very careful not to scuff the end of the sensor. There may be a felt pad on the end of it, do NOT remove that pad, it is a spacer that must be there if it came from the factory with one.

If you do it yourself be aware that for the first 20 miles or so after replacement the truck will drive like shit until the computer can do a relearn.


I can't promise anything , I mean I'm diagnosing without even seeing the car you know, but I'm fairly confident it is the Crankshaft sensor.

These sensors should have caused his check engine light to come on.

 

[Underhill]

A bit of background. My Scion TC that I bought new didn't need new brakes until the 85k mile mark. I am very easy on brakes. Drive only manual transmission cars and use engine braking when I can. I also drive almost exclusively in the country. My daily commute consist of 2 stop lights and a stop sign in my 20 mile each way trip.

But I replaced the rotors on my Jeep Wrangler twice from Auto Zone in 20k miles after they warped severely. So I swapped to a set of good quality (read expensive) after market rotors and never had a problem again.

It could be that vehicle, it could be specific to those rotors. But I suspect the problem with rotors boils down to material quality. As an engineer I can tell you the difference steel quality can make is significant in something subjected to high heat (as rotors are). And for a set of rotors to warp that quickly means either a) they are undersized for the vehicle or b) the material is inferior. (or I suppose the calipers could be bad, which was not the case here..)

I'm thinking it's B since the upgraded rotors never gave me a problem.

But I'm willing to concede I could have just gotten a bad batch or something.

Your brake is not properly releasing, dragging the pads on the rotors causing excessive heat. Replace your brake hoses, clean & lube caliper slides & bolts. If it does it again, replace caliper.

If that is the case, then why did the problem go away with better rotors? I've driven close to 30k with the last set and no issues.

 

[Papawx3]

If I had known I could get this much help here, I'd have come to you guys weeks ago.
Thanks

Be sure to post after you install the part and give us some feedback.........

OK, Here's what I found. I put it up on my ramps and got up under it. I wiggled the wires and it must have had a loose connection because I think I reseated the plug. I never replaced it because the nuts are so tight on the bolts from the heat that I never could get them to break loose. So I put it back down and cranked the engine and she stsarted right up.
I let it sit overnight and then tried again and it started right up again. Then I let it sit for 2 days and the problem has still not returned.
Heck, I might wind up returning the sensor I bought, and that's OK by me.,

 

[waltky]

94 Ranger XLT, 4 liter big 6, fuel injected, 2wd, standard 5-speed...

... won't start when it's cold, runs rough, misfires at 1500 rpm's and cuts out until it gets warmed up...

... fuel pressure checks out and diagnostic machine doesn't show any abnormalities...

... fuel filter and ignition module has been replaced, coil pack swapped out, oil changed, air filter replaced and engine tuned up...

... but still is extremely hard starting when it's cold or rainy or both...

... mechanic is baffled as to what the cause is.

(Had an S10 a few years back that did the same thing...

... turned out to be the diode on the wiring harness from the ignition switch to the distributor...

... but mechanic doesn't think it's the same cause here.)

 

[KissMy]

94 Ranger XLT, 4 liter big 6, fuel injected, 2wd, standard 5-speed...

... won't start when it's cold, runs rough, misfires at 1500 rpm's and cuts out until it gets warmed up...

... fuel pressure checks out and diagnostic machine doesn't show any abnormalities...

... fuel filter and ignition module has been replaced, coil pack swapped out, oil changed, air filter replaced and engine tuned up...

... but still is extremely hard starting when it's cold or rainy or both...

... mechanic is baffled as to what the cause is.

(Had an S10 a few years back that did the same thing...

... turned out to be the diode on the wiring harness from the ignition switch to the distributor...

... but mechanic doesn't think it's the same cause here.)

Did you change the Spark Plug Wires? Sounds like moisture on the plug wires is causing them to arc.

 

[Sunni Man]

Did you change the Spark Plug Wires? Sounds like moisture on the plug wires is causing them to arc.

Look under the hood on a dark night while having someone else try to start it.

If there is any plug wire arcing it will be easy to spot the location.........

 

[MikeK]

How useful is the "Car MD" device I've seen advertised on late night tv? Is it really capable of accurately diagnosing problems?

 

[KissMy]

How useful is the "Car MD" device I've seen advertised on late night tv? Is it really capable of accurately diagnosing problems?

It's just a code reader. Autozone will read your codes for free.

 

[MikeK]

How useful is the "Car MD" device I've seen advertised on late night tv? Is it really capable of accurately diagnosing problems?

It's just a code reader. Autozone will read your codes for free.

But do the codes it reads refer to specific problems, which I expect are listed in some accompanying reference manual?

If so, go back to my original question. Are these devices usefully accurate?

 

[waltky]

Kissmy wrote: Did you change the Spark Plug Wires? Sounds like moisture on the plug wires is causing them to arc.

Yes, plug wires have been replaced...

... just called the mechanic...

... and he says it's the computer.