1989 Ford F150 ignition button install...

[Missourian]

Green wire is on the "hot" 12 volt terminal (with the wire that comes from the positive battery).

It goes through the firewall and to one side of the push button ignition switch.

The black wire is connected to the ignition terminal that activates the solenoid magnet. It runs with the green wire through the firewall to the other side of the ignition button.View attachment 348443

SSB5 ignition button installed...
View attachment 348444

Good fix. Did you run the wires going through the firewall through a grommet?

Thanks. Yes. The hole behind the brake booster already had factory wiring running though it with a factory installed edge protection.

Running shit through the firewall can be a major pain in the ass.

That's a fact. I was lucky to find a factory hole with room to slide more wire through.

In some of the newer vehicles you might not be able to get to the firewall at all.

 

[HereWeGoAgain]

Green wire is on the "hot" 12 volt terminal (with the wire that comes from the positive battery).

It goes through the firewall and to one side of the push button ignition switch.

The black wire is connected to the ignition terminal that activates the solenoid magnet. It runs with the green wire through the firewall to the other side of the ignition button.View attachment 348443

SSB5 ignition button installed...
View attachment 348444

Good fix. Did you run the wires going through the firewall through a grommet?

Thanks. Yes. The hole behind the brake booster already had factory wiring running though it with a factory installed edge protection.

Running shit through the firewall can be a major pain in the ass.

That's a fact. I was lucky to find a factory hole with room to slide more wire through.

In some of the newer vehicles you might not be able to get to the firewall at all.

Like you did you always look for that hole thats already there and is big enough that you can still stuff some wires through.

 

[daveman]

Green wire is on the "hot" 12 volt terminal (with the wire that comes from the positive battery).

It goes through the firewall and to one side of the push button ignition switch.

The black wire is connected to the ignition terminal that activates the solenoid magnet. It runs with the green wire through the firewall to the other side of the ignition button.View attachment 348443

SSB5 ignition button installed...
View attachment 348444

Good fix. Did you run the wires going through the firewall through a grommet?

Thanks. Yes. The hole behind the brake booster already had factory wiring running though it with a factory installed edge protection.

Awesome!

 

[Crepitus]

The linkage that activates the starter in the steering column of my F150 (gen 8) is giving up...had to turn it with plyers to get it to crank....so I installed an ignition push button start in the dash.

This is how I did it. It isn't necessarily the right way...but it worked for me...ymmv...attempt at your own risk.

The F150 has a starter solenoid on the fender behind the battery. I ran two 14 gauge wires up the fender and across the firewall to the brake booster.

Behind the brake booster is a hole though the firewall. Ran the wires though and they came out under the dash.

There is a blank space available in the lower dash away from the column on the right side. Drilled a 3/4 inch hole for the button. That lower dash just pops loose when pried with a wide bladed standard screw driver.

I use O'Reilly's SSB5 two terminal ignition switch.

One of the wires went to each terminal.

Back at the solenoid...I disconnected the wire to the solenoid that goes to the positive battery terminal. Mine is a three terminal (threaded studs) solenoid...two large on either side and a small one in the centered above the other two. One of the larger terminal studs is the one that went to the positive battery connection. The other goes to the starter and can be ignored.

Crimp or solder appropriate eye connecters to the two wires...one large and one small. I needed a 10-32 nut for the small terminal stud to hold the eye connector in contact, as the lead from the key ignition just pushed on like a sparkplug wire.

Since the button ignition switch isn't polarized...it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal. You are basicly installing a 12 volt momentary switch.

And that was it. Works like a charm. Still have to turn the key to the on position...so not like new car fob activated ignition buttons...but instead of pulling the steering wheel and column sheathing, etc...this took maybe an hour and looks pretty spiffy.
You could certainly find another 12 volt source closer and run a shorter wire for power...but since I was running one wire though...two wasn't any harder.

I had wire and most of the eye connectors. The SSB5 switch was $14. Had to buy the 10-32 nut at Ace...23 cents...and some #10 eye connectors (got a bigger one on there in the pictures that works...but better ti have the right size so I'm going to change it)

Pics to follow...

Why not just replace the lock cylinder and linkage rod?

It only takes about 10 minutes if you've got the key. Cheap too.

 

[Missourian]

The linkage that activates the starter in the steering column of my F150 (gen 8) is giving up...had to turn it with plyers to get it to crank....so I installed an ignition push button start in the dash.

This is how I did it. It isn't necessarily the right way...but it worked for me...ymmv...attempt at your own risk.

The F150 has a starter solenoid on the fender behind the battery. I ran two 14 gauge wires up the fender and across the firewall to the brake booster.

Behind the brake booster is a hole though the firewall. Ran the wires though and they came out under the dash.

There is a blank space available in the lower dash away from the column on the right side. Drilled a 3/4 inch hole for the button. That lower dash just pops loose when pried with a wide bladed standard screw driver.

I use O'Reilly's SSB5 two terminal ignition switch.

One of the wires went to each terminal.

Back at the solenoid...I disconnected the wire to the solenoid that goes to the positive battery terminal. Mine is a three terminal (threaded studs) solenoid...two large on either side and a small one in the centered above the other two. One of the larger terminal studs is the one that went to the positive battery connection. The other goes to the starter and can be ignored.

Crimp or solder appropriate eye connecters to the two wires...one large and one small. I needed a 10-32 nut for the small terminal stud to hold the eye connector in contact, as the lead from the key ignition just pushed on like a sparkplug wire.

Since the button ignition switch isn't polarized...it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal. You are basicly installing a 12 volt momentary switch.

And that was it. Works like a charm. Still have to turn the key to the on position...so not like new car fob activated ignition buttons...but instead of pulling the steering wheel and column sheathing, etc...this took maybe an hour and looks pretty spiffy.
You could certainly find another 12 volt source closer and run a shorter wire for power...but since I was running one wire though...two wasn't any harder.

I had wire and most of the eye connectors. The SSB5 switch was $14. Had to buy the 10-32 nut at Ace...23 cents...and some #10 eye connectors (got a bigger one on there in the pictures that works...but better ti have the right size so I'm going to change it)

Pics to follow...

Why not just replace the lock cylinder and linkage rod?

It only takes about 10 minutes if you've got the key. Cheap too.

I replaced the lock cylinder last year...and it was easy...but didn't fix the problem.

The linkage on this one is harder. It's a one piece collared column. That means steering wheel puller, and turn signal switch removal, and cylinder removal...and I don't know what after that.


If it wasn't an old beater truck that needs an engine rebuild it's probably not going to get...and even if it does it will be a backyard job with no magnaflux test and no machine shop work...just do it and hope for the best.

 

[Cellblock2429]

The linkage that activates the starter in the steering column of my F150 (gen 8) is giving up...had to turn it with plyers to get it to crank....so I installed an ignition push button start in the dash.

This is how I did it. It isn't necessarily the right way...but it worked for me...ymmv...attempt at your own risk.

The F150 has a starter solenoid on the fender behind the battery. I ran two 14 gauge wires up the fender and across the firewall to the brake booster.

Behind the brake booster is a hole though the firewall. Ran the wires though and they came out under the dash.

There is a blank space available in the lower dash away from the column on the right side. Drilled a 3/4 inch hole for the button. That lower dash just pops loose when pried with a wide bladed standard screw driver.

I use O'Reilly's SSB5 two terminal ignition switch.

One of the wires went to each terminal.

Back at the solenoid...I disconnected the wire to the solenoid that goes to the positive battery terminal. Mine is a three terminal (threaded studs) solenoid...two large on either side and a small one in the centered above the other two. One of the larger terminal studs is the one that went to the positive battery connection. The other goes to the starter and can be ignored.

Crimp or solder appropriate eye connecters to the two wires...one large and one small. I needed a 10-32 nut for the small terminal stud to hold the eye connector in contact, as the lead from the key ignition just pushed on like a sparkplug wire.

Since the button ignition switch isn't polarized...it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal. You are basicly installing a 12 volt momentary switch.

And that was it. Works like a charm. Still have to turn the key to the on position...so not like new car fob activated ignition buttons...but instead of pulling the steering wheel and column sheathing, etc...this took maybe an hour and looks pretty spiffy.
You could certainly find another 12 volt source closer and run a shorter wire for power...but since I was running one wire though...two wasn't any harder.

I had wire and most of the eye connectors. The SSB5 switch was $14. Had to buy the 10-32 nut at Ace...23 cents...and some #10 eye connectors (got a bigger one on there in the pictures that works...but better ti have the right size so I'm going to change it)

Pics to follow...

/——/ speaking of 150s:
Still a lightweight.

2021 Ford F-150 revealed with hybrid power, built-in generators and sleeper seats

 

[luchitociencia]

The linkage that activates the starter in the steering column of my F150 (gen 8) is giving up...had to turn it with plyers to get it to crank....so I installed an ignition push button start in the dash.

This is how I did it. It isn't necessarily the right way...but it worked for me...ymmv...attempt at your own risk.

The F150 has a starter solenoid on the fender behind the battery. I ran two 14 gauge wires up the fender and across the firewall to the brake booster.

Behind the brake booster is a hole though the firewall. Ran the wires though and they came out under the dash.

There is a blank space available in the lower dash away from the column on the right side. Drilled a 3/4 inch hole for the button. That lower dash just pops loose when pried with a wide bladed standard screw driver.

I use O'Reilly's SSB5 two terminal ignition switch.

One of the wires went to each terminal.

Back at the solenoid...I disconnected the wire to the solenoid that goes to the positive battery terminal. Mine is a three terminal (threaded studs) solenoid...two large on either side and a small one in the centered above the other two. One of the larger terminal studs is the one that went to the positive battery connection. The other goes to the starter and can be ignored.

Crimp or solder appropriate eye connecters to the two wires...one large and one small. I needed a 10-32 nut for the small terminal stud to hold the eye connector in contact, as the lead from the key ignition just pushed on like a sparkplug wire.

Since the button ignition switch isn't polarized...it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal. You are basicly installing a 12 volt momentary switch.

And that was it. Works like a charm. Still have to turn the key to the on position...so not like new car fob activated ignition buttons...but instead of pulling the steering wheel and column sheathing, etc...this took maybe an hour and looks pretty spiffy.
You could certainly find another 12 volt source closer and run a shorter wire for power...but since I was running one wire though...two wasn't any harder.

I had wire and most of the eye connectors. The SSB5 switch was $14. Had to buy the 10-32 nut at Ace...23 cents...and some #10 eye connectors (got a bigger one on there in the pictures that works...but better ti have the right size so I'm going to change it)

Pics to follow...

Why not just replace the lock cylinder and linkage rod?

It only takes about 10 minutes if you've got the key. Cheap too.

I replaced the lock cylinder last year...and it was easy...but didn't fix the problem.

The linkage on this one is harder. It's a one piece collared column. That means steering wheel puller, and turn signal switch removal, and cylinder removal...and I don't know what after that.


If it wasn't an old beater truck that needs an engine rebuild it's probably not going to get...and even if it does it will be a backyard job with no magnaflux test and no machine shop work...just do it and hope for the best.

View attachment 348552

I didn't know the old Fords were so complicated to work with. A 1999 Buick I own was also in need of a starter switch, which is also located deeper down the key cylinder and the turn signal mechanism. The Service Shop book recommends and provides step by step the removal of the entire steering wheel assembly.

I even bought (on eBay for $15) a special tool to hold the steering column on the bench, and all that.

Working the first steps disconnecting wiring here and there, when I removed the holding brackets of the steering column to the dash, I found out that letting it to rest over the front seat allowed me to remove the starter switch without removing the entire piece plus without damaging anything. Of course one little bolt holding the starter switch was a kind of problem for removing by the angle and working clearance space, but in general was an easy task.

That old oil burner works like a champ since then.

You were lucky your truck is from the 80s, when VATS resistors weren't added yet, and not having them facilitated your work a lot. Still, I think you just were capable also to remove the holding bolts and lower down the steering column and do the replacement. I accept being corrected if this opinion of mine doesn't apply to your vehicle.

 

[Missourian]

Why not just replace the lock cylinder and linkage rod?

It only takes about 10 minutes if you've got the key. Cheap too.

Figured out the problem.

The column shifter when in park now goes too far beyond the "P" position, overshooting the contacts of the neutral safety switch.

 

[miketx]

Some guy wanted me to put switches on his dash so he could manually shift his transmission. I told him he could do that just by using the shifter. Doh! Also it's a bad idea to rig up switches to shift it.

 

[miketx]

Figured out the problem.

The column shifter when in park now goes too far beyond the "P" position, overshooting the contacts of the neutral safety switch.

Fords are known for that.

 

[HereWeGoAgain]

Some guy wanted me to put switches on his dash so he could manually shift his transmission. I told him he could do that just by using the shifter. Doh! Also it's a bad idea to rig up switches to shift it.

I love that feature in my Tundra!!
When you put it in tow mode it allows you to slap the shifter forward or back to change gears.
It also allows the engine to rev higher and changes your shift points if you just let it shift on its own.
With the TRD exhaust it rumbles when you downshift coming to a stop sign.

 

[Missourian]

Some guy wanted me to put switches on his dash so hd manually shift his transmission. I told him he could do that just by using the shifter. Doh! Also it's a bad idea to rig up switches to shift it.

Tell him to buy a 60s era Chrysler.

Automotive History: The Mysterious Disappearance of the Chrysler Pushbutton Automatic – A Government Conspiracy?

The sudden disappearance of the pushbutton transmission on Chrysler Corporation vehicles at the end of the 1964 model year has resulted in a lot of speculation over the years. Was […]

www.curbsideclassic.com

 

[Cellblock2429]

Some guy wanted me to put switches on his dash so he could manually shift his transmission. I told him he could do that just by using the shifter. Doh! Also it's a bad idea to rig up switches to shift it.

/——-/ Been there, done that,

 

[miketx]

/——-/ Been there, done that,
View attachment 691292

That was mechanical.

 

[Cellblock2429]

That was mechanical.

/——-/ Many we’re electrical. They weren’t very reliable.
Packard introduced an electrically controlled Ultramatic gearbox with a push-button shift in 1956. It had issues with insufficient blown fuses and electrical power, particularly while on a slope, moving out of park.

The unfortunate Edsel had Teletouch, a push-button electromechanical shifter, but the car didn’t live a long time. And in the late 1950s, Mercury also supplied push buttons.

Push Button Transmission: Everything You NEED to Know

As automobiles become more secure and consumers want greater convenience, automakers are increasingly equipping push button transmission in their vehicles.

bryansgarage.com

 

[miketx]

/——-/ Many we’re electrical. They weren’t very reliable.
Packard introduced an electrically controlled Ultramatic gearbox with a push-button shift in 1956. It had issues with insufficient blown fuses and electrical power, particularly while on a slope, moving out of park.

The unfortunate Edsel had Teletouch, a push-button electromechanical shifter, but the car didn’t live a long time. And in the late 1950s, Mercury also supplied push buttons.

Push Button Transmission: Everything You NEED to Know

As automobiles become more secure and consumers want greater convenience, automakers are increasingly equipping push button transmission in their vehicles.

bryansgarage.com

I know but what I meant was the trans has no electronics in it. They were totally hydraulically controlled.