Old Blue quit me last week...

For as easy as the ICM was to remove...it wouldn't hurt to have it tested. My understanding is the ICM can be resistance tested with a multimeter (the instructions are in the Chilton manual)... and also the parts store can test them... with the caveat that the recommendation was of the machine says it is bad... have the parts person test a new one on the machine with the same set up to reduce the opportunity for operator error.

Honestly though, I can't tell you yet the heat soak issue is solved. I drove it to the store last night and back home, shut it off and immediately restarted it with no issues... but I'll know more in a week or so.

Mine did well for a few trips after I replaced the starter and solenoid and then started doing it again. No heat shield over that starter which is in a pain in the ass location to get to. I will probably break down and just buy a newer truck once prices come back down out of the stratosphere. I didn't pay anything for the one I have. It was given to me. It started at the home depot and had to have towed back home. Starter kept trying to turn over even after engine off and key out of switch. Now it does it after the thing gets hot. I can make very short trips in it without it happening but anything that is more than about 20 minutes and it keeps wanting to start on its own after I stop and I have to take the battery cable off.
 
Solenoid sticking. Replace just the solenoid if possible, then try wiring a layer of stove seal, perhaps trapped between two layers of sheet metal, onto the exhaust facing side before reinstalling the starter/solenoid.
 
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So... to make a long story even longer... I'm wondering if the ICM was causing the "heat soak" problem from the beginning... that it was failing slowly and when it got hot it was retarding the timing and causing the slow crank no start condition. Have to take it on a long drive, shut it off and see if it will start right back up

Nope...still does the slow crank no start thing.
 
Sounds like the starter motor must be getting hot, increasing the winding resistance. Perhaps needs more lubrication. Sometimes the gears don't match up well with a new starter. May bind and stick more when hot.
 
I didnt see where you replaced the stator on the inside of the dist that the module plugs into,, hate to break it to you but usually thats what caused the problem with dried out and cracked insulation that causes a spark between leads,

they are not hard to replace after youve done dozens of them but are a pain in the ass if you havent and dont have the right puller,, which I do,,

I have seen them burn out the module in the first start and also work for days to weeks but at some point it will go bad again,,
That's what I SHOULD do...but i really didn't want to reset the timing.
 
do you amps shoot up and voltage drop a lot when trying to start it??
The in dash voltmeter does show a voltage drop... honestly it acts exactly like a weak battery when it is hot. Then 15 or 20 minutes later it Cranks fires like normal.

I'll check the amp next time it happens.
 
Sounds like the starter motor must be getting hot, increasing the winding resistance. Perhaps needs more lubrication. Sometimes the gears don't match up well with a new starter. May bind and stick more when hot.

That's what I thought at first.

Someone threw away the heat shield so I made a new one.

That didn't help...so I replaced the starter . No help.

So I added another shield.

Still no change.

Last month I bought a wrap around shield that total incased the starter that was supposed to be good to 1100 F.

Still did the same thing.

That's when I started replacing battery cables and the battery.

Nothing has helped so far.
 
The in dash voltmeter does show a voltage drop... honestly it acts exactly like a weak battery when it is hot. Then 15 or 20 minutes later it Cranks fires like normal.

I'll check the amp next time it happens.
if the starter is bad you will see an increase in amps might even peg out,, and a voltage drop well below 9 volts even 5-6 or lower,,
what sucks is both a bad battery and starter can give you the same results,
need to separate the battery and test it
 
if the starter is bad you will see an increase in amps might even peg out,, and a voltage drop well below 9 volts even 5-6 or lower,,
what sucks is both a bad battery and starter can give you the same results,
need to separate the battery and test it
Battery is brand new...purchased three weeks ago.

Old battery is still good...have it in the Chevy K20 350 and it is functioning normally.

Starter has been replace in the last six months.
 
That's what I thought at first.

Someone threw away the heat shield so I made a new one.

That didn't help...so I replaced the starter . No help.

So I added another shield.

Still no change.

Last month I bought a wrap around shield that total incased the starter that was supposed to be good to 1100 F.

Still did the same thing.

That's when I started replacing battery cables and the battery.

Nothing has helped so far.
I tried. Sorry about that ;)

Have you tried getting really angry, cursing out loud, stomping around, and throwing things yet?
 
I was a great idea and I appreciate it.

It's a puzzler for sure...and it's getting worse.

It used to only happen when I ran down the interstate 30 miles or more at 70mph.

Today it happened and I hadn't run six miles total at 35mph.
just a thought but its not typical for a starter to cause this kind of problem,,
you might want to replace both the ground cable and positive from the battery down,,

my ford van did that for months when it got hot and it ended up being the negative cable, I bypassed it with one side of jumper cables direct to the frame and it started right up and never had to replace the starter,,
 
just a thought but its not typical for a starter to cause this kind of problem,,
you might want to replace both the ground cable and positive from the battery down,,

my ford van did that for months when it got hot and it ended up being the negative cable, I bypassed it with one side of jumper cables direct to the frame and it started right up and never had to replace the starter,,
Did that too. Add a brand new second ground to frame, new positive battery to starter relay, new terminal hardware BUT... I haven't replaced starter relay to starter yet...think that is going to be next.
 

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