So is DS9 worth bothering with? I think I watched one or two episodes and never went back.
Yes. I've watched the majority of it. I would say it's a lot more "darkly ambitious" than Voyager. A lot of episodes and characters are more mysterious, darker and more morally ambivalent & ambiguous than usual for Star Trek. Like one of the greatest episodes in the franchise, "In the Pale Moonlight." DS9's other strength is that for several seasons it had the recurring, most extravagant, deliciously scenery-chewing, fun-to-hate Trek villain of all time, the Cardassian Gul Dukat. Yes, Dukat was a Khan-caliber Star Trek villain.
At any rate, if you check out several of the stronger, more famous eps. of DS9, you may find it growing on you quickly. It's different from other Treks - but in an intelligent way. Also it had TNG's Worf stationed there as a regular for a few seasons, to add to the fun and give it Klingon flavor. There are some lousy eps. too (what Trek doesn't have them) so you have to sort the wheat from the chaff.