Have you replaced ball joints?

[Missourian]

Old Blue needs some lower ball joints to pass inspection. My inspection guy retired, so I went to the guy he recommended. When I saw the lift...I knew I was in trouble.

Usually, I'd shop for a new inspection guy...but the lower on the passenger side is actually pretty bad this time...not just a scam for the inspection mechanic to make some script.

I got a quote. Shop wants to do uppers and lowers for $750.

Don't know if that's a screwin' or not...but regardless...I'm not gonna part with $750 on a $900 truck if I can do it myself.

I've done most mechanical work over the years...but never done ball joints.

I watched a video...and most of the work seems to be things I've done many times...remove the caliper, separate the tie rods...and then the new section...press out the lower ball joints with snap ring pliers and a ball joint press.

Any tips and tricks from those of you that have done this before would be greatly appreciated.

Old Blue is an '89 F150 2WD.

Here's the video...

 

[progressive hunter]

Old Blue needs some lower ball joints to pass inspection. My inspection guy retired, so I went to the guy he recommended. When I saw the lift...I knew I was in trouble.

Usually, I'd shop for a new inspection guy...but the lower on the passenger side is actually pretty bad this time...not just a scam for the inspection mechanic to make some script.

I got a quote. Shop wants to do uppers and lowers for $750.

Don't know if that's a screwin' or not...but regardless...I'm not gonna part with $750 on a $900 truck if I can do it myself.

I've done most mechanical work over the years...but never done ball joints.

I watched a video...and most of the work seems to be things I've done many times...remove the caliper, separate the tie rods...and then the new section...press out the lower ball joints with snap ring pliers and a ball joint press.

Any tips and tricks from those of you that have done this before would be greatly appreciated.

Old Blue is an '89 F150 2WD.

Here's the video...

I have replaced hundreds,, they are very easy once you do a few,, these are some of the easier ones

I image thats a stamped I beam set up,, so put a jack under the i beam and do as you already said,, you can hammer the sides of the tie rods to break them loose without using a fork, and also hammer out the ball joints,,
to put them back in you can hammer them in but its ockword a press does work best

the lower one can be set on a jackstand and hammer on the knuckle to set the joint the upper is a struggle,,

shouldnt take more than 30 minutes,,

if the joints are in the knuckle you can take the whole thing out on a bench and it should be easier for that style,,

 

[Procrustes Stretched]

Old Blue needs some lower ball joints to pass inspection. My inspection guy retired, so I went to the guy he recommended. When I saw the lift...I knew I was in trouble.

Usually, I'd shop for a new inspection guy...but the lower on the passenger side is actually pretty bad this time...not just a scam for the inspection mechanic to make some script.

I got a quote. Shop wants to do uppers and lowers for $750.

Don't know if that's a screwin' or not...but regardless...I'm not gonna part with $750 on a $900 truck if I can do it myself.

I've done most mechanical work over the years...but never done ball joints.

I watched a video...and most of the work seems to be things I've done many times...remove the caliper, separate the tie rods...and then the new section...press out the lower ball joints with snap ring pliers and a ball joint press.

Any tips and tricks from those of you that have done this before would be greatly appreciated.

Old Blue is an '89 F150 2WD.

Here's the video...

Be very careful using just any YouTube video on this. There exists a few seriously good instruction videos. Do your homework if you think you can do it yourself.

good luck

 

[Tumblin Tumbleweed]

Old Blue needs some lower ball joints to pass inspection. My inspection guy retired, so I went to the guy he recommended. When I saw the lift...I knew I was in trouble.

Usually, I'd shop for a new inspection guy...but the lower on the passenger side is actually pretty bad this time...not just a scam for the inspection mechanic to make some script.

I got a quote. Shop wants to do uppers and lowers for $750.

Don't know if that's a screwin' or not...but regardless...I'm not gonna part with $750 on a $900 truck if I can do it myself.

I've done most mechanical work over the years...but never done ball joints.

I watched a video...and most of the work seems to be things I've done many times...remove the caliper, separate the tie rods...and then the new section...press out the lower ball joints with snap ring pliers and a ball joint press.

Any tips and tricks from those of you that have done this before would be greatly appreciated.

Old Blue is an '89 F150 2WD.

Here's the video...

Seems straight forward enough. Done this job many times. Including on a 96 f150.

 

[CuleokaBob]

I have replaced hundreds,, they are very easy once you do a few,, these are some of the easier ones

I image thats a stamped I beam set up,, so put a jack under the i beam and do as you already said,, you can hammer the sides of the tie rods to break them loose without using a fork, and also hammer out the ball joints,,
to put them back in you can hammer them in but its ockword a press does work best

the lower one can be set on a jackstand and hammer on the knuckle to set the joint the upper is a struggle,,

shouldnt take more than 30 minutes,,

if the joints are in the knuckle you can take the whole thing out on a bench and it should be easier for that style,,

Or you can take the parts off the truck and take it to a machine shop and have the parts pressed out and in.

 

[BULLDOG]

Go ahead and do top and bottom. If one has gone bad, the others can't be far behind it. Check your tie rod ends and control arm bushings too.

 

[progressive hunter]

Or you can take the parts off the truck and take it to a machine shop and have the parts pressed out and in.

true but wheres the fun in that,, and does he have a shop close by to do that,,

 

[CuleokaBob]

true but wheres the fun in that,, and does he have a shop close by to do that,,

it is no fun hammering them in and damaging the rubber boot.
been there, done that. Ended up buying another ball joint.

 

[CuleokaBob]

Old Blue needs some lower ball joints to pass inspection. My inspection guy retired, so I went to the guy he recommended. When I saw the lift...I knew I was in trouble.

Usually, I'd shop for a new inspection guy...but the lower on the passenger side is actually pretty bad this time...not just a scam for the inspection mechanic to make some script.

I got a quote. Shop wants to do uppers and lowers for $750.

Don't know if that's a screwin' or not...but regardless...I'm not gonna part with $750 on a $900 truck if I can do it myself.

I've done most mechanical work over the years...but never done ball joints.

I watched a video...and most of the work seems to be things I've done many times...remove the caliper, separate the tie rods...and then the new section...press out the lower ball joints with snap ring pliers and a ball joint press.

Any tips and tricks from those of you that have done this before would be greatly appreciated.

Old Blue is an '89 F150 2WD.

Here's the video...

buy a complete rebuild kit and replace tie rods as well. Get an alignment afterwards.
Maybe do front shocks at the same time.

one example

1987-1996 Ford F150 Ball Joint - SKP SKSK00597K - - PartsGeek.com

Buy 1987-1996 Ford F150 Ball Joint SKP for a low price of $66.98 at PartsGeek. FREE SHIPPING on most SKP SKSK00597K orders.

www.partsgeek.com

 

[progressive hunter]

it is no fun hammering them in and damaging the rubber boot.
been there, done that. Ended up buying another ball joint.

you dont have the boot on them when you hammer them,, you also is a support for both sides of the joint to avoid damage,,

 

[Grumpyolman]

Ol' Blue. That's the name I call my truck, a 1965 Chevy C10.


https://i.postimg.cc/BQ434fts/image.jpg

Love that old bastard. Runs like a top, too.

 

[sparky]

Any tips and tricks from those of you that have done this before would be greatly appreciated.

uhmmm.......well it's been a while you see.......

~S~

 

[Concerned American]

Old Blue needs some lower ball joints to pass inspection. My inspection guy retired, so I went to the guy he recommended. When I saw the lift...I knew I was in trouble.

Usually, I'd shop for a new inspection guy...but the lower on the passenger side is actually pretty bad this time...not just a scam for the inspection mechanic to make some script.

I got a quote. Shop wants to do uppers and lowers for $750.

Don't know if that's a screwin' or not...but regardless...I'm not gonna part with $750 on a $900 truck if I can do it myself.

I've done most mechanical work over the years...but never done ball joints.

I watched a video...and most of the work seems to be things I've done many times...remove the caliper, separate the tie rods...and then the new section...press out the lower ball joints with snap ring pliers and a ball joint press.

Any tips and tricks from those of you that have done this before would be greatly appreciated.

Old Blue is an '89 F150 2WD.

Here's the video...

Never done it, but good luck. It ain't rocket science.

 

[fncceo]

Have you replaced ball joints?​

My balls don't have joints. They just swing.

 

[Grumpyolman]

My balls don't have joints. They just swing.

LOL.

 

[okfine]

The guy in the video is a hack. Never hit the tapered stud on a tie rod end that you aren't replacing, even with the nut on it. You can use a heavy hammer to hit the end on the outside of the steering arm taper to release the tie rod end. Using one of those removal tools may poke a hole on the dust boot. As for the zerk fitting on the old ball joints, you can destroy it since you're changing the joint, right? Hit it with a hammer and break it off.

Take off the hub and brake rotor before taking off the knuckle. It makes it easier to handle the heavy assembly and keep the brake surface clean. Service the wheel bearings, too. Good luck.

 

[CuleokaBob]

you dont have the boot on them when you hammer them,, you also is a support for both sides of the joint to avoid damage,,

I have not done ball joints on a F150. I can tell you with 100% certainty I have done ball joints where the boot is permanently attached.
I the only time I have used a hammer now is to hit the pickle fork to break the joint loose.

 

[Dekster]

Old Blue needs some lower ball joints to pass inspection. My inspection guy retired, so I went to the guy he recommended. When I saw the lift...I knew I was in trouble.

Usually, I'd shop for a new inspection guy...but the lower on the passenger side is actually pretty bad this time...not just a scam for the inspection mechanic to make some script.

I got a quote. Shop wants to do uppers and lowers for $750.

Don't know if that's a screwin' or not...but regardless...I'm not gonna part with $750 on a $900 truck if I can do it myself.

I've done most mechanical work over the years...but never done ball joints.

I watched a video...and most of the work seems to be things I've done many times...remove the caliper, separate the tie rods...and then the new section...press out the lower ball joints with snap ring pliers and a ball joint press.

Any tips and tricks from those of you that have done this before would be greatly appreciated.

Old Blue is an '89 F150 2WD.

Here's the video...

I replaced them on both sides of the front maybe 10 years ago and it was around $500 so price seems right.

 

[progressive hunter]

I have not done ball joints on a F150. I can tell you with 100% certainty I have done ball joints where the boot is permanently attached.
I the only time I have used a hammer now is to hit the pickle fork to break the joint loose.

if the boot is attached it is never on the side you need to hit to install,,, or you remove the boot before installation,,

only beginners use a fork to remove joints,,, you hit the side of the female section to cause the pin to drop out or use an air hammer the same way,, I just use a hammer,,

I raced a guy I worked with on a 72 el camino to do both ball joints on each side,, I beat him by a few seconds and it took about 12 minutes,, and both of us dropped tools a few times,,

 

[CuleokaBob]

if the boot is attached it is never on the side you need to hit to install,,,

only beginners use a fork to remove joints,,, you hit the side of the female section to cause the pin to drop out or use an air hammer the same way,, I just use a hammer,,

I raced a guy I worked with on a 72 el camino to do both ball joints on each side,, I beat him by a few seconds and it took about 12 minutes,, and both of us dropped tools a few times,,

I used to do them in 8 minutes flat and I rotated the air in all 4 tires and filled it up with flasher fluid.
I can swap muffler bearings using a torch in 45 seconds.
One time I put a 1969 Camaro radiator hose in a 1966 beetle and the top speed jumped by 9 miles per hour.

All my vehicles have Mallory Dual Point Cigarette lighters in the dash