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They were run in series...but the bottom has burnt/rusted out of the old wood stove. We already have a new wood stove installed in the living room that heats the house as well as the old one.Why would you remove a wood or gas furnace to replace it with electric? Your bills will rise & you will be screwed in a grid down situation. Putin is threatening to use nukes that will destroy the electric grid.
It's fubar.Unless it was FUBAR I would have left it in as a back-up heat source.
Did it have coal grates too, many of them did though they often got tossed.....A few bags of nut coal and you are set.
Looks as if space may have been a issue though a pick and shovel would have solved that.
LOL.....I had to hack out a place for a oil furnace and hot water heater in my grandparents root cellar back in the 70s.....Instead of blocking it my granddad shored it up with cedar logs.
I use 2 pieces of angle iron & a couple of clamps for a sheet metal brake to form ductwork.
Yep, time for it to go.It's fubar.
The bottom of the firebox let go.
Since the electric furnace was running though the heat exchanger of the wood furnace...70% of the electric heat was being blown into the cellar
Didn't discover it had given up the ghost until the 20° weather rolled in.
We bank the new wood stove at night...then let the electric furnace take over in the wee hours.
It was a rude awakening when that failed to keep the house warm.
Not a lost art. HVAC installers make them on a regular basis. Get a set of Right, Left & Straight cut Tin Snips, Folding Tool, Hand Seamers, Metal Brake & Crimpers, then you can make almost any duct or plenum.Whoever put in the original duct knew their craft. It is all costom made from sheet metal including the connectors.
A semi-lost art I suspect.
I bought Z channel for connecting.
Not a lost art. HVAC installers make them on a regular basis. Get a set of Right, Left & Straight cut Tin Snips, Folding Tool, Hand Seamers, Metal Brake & Crimpers, then you can make almost any duct or plenum.
Not a lost art. HVAC installers make them on a regular basis. Get a set of Right, Left & Straight cut Tin Snips, Folding Tool, Hand Seamers, Metal Brake & Crimpers, then you can make almost any duct or plenum.
It's been a while, but I think max of 1" for the S-lock & 1/2" for the drive cleats. Can use as little as 1/2" for the S-lock & 1/4" for the drive cleats.KissMy
Quick question if you have time..
How long should the tabs be that the s-locks go on and the ones bent around for the drive cleats?