Five years later, my welds still suck.

It's not your welding thats the problem. Looking at that steel, it's pretty thick and trying to weld on it with a 110 machine your obviously not getting enough penetration. The thickness requires more amps. its an ill fated venture for anything over 3/8 thick IMO. It wouldnt be too much to invest in a 220V machine but then of course you would have to use either a generator with a 220 outlet or make a long extension. But it's really worth it to own one.
Flux core was the right idea, it also gives you better penetration than the solid wire, but there is one problem with that. If you weld over your old flux core welds too many times with more flux core you end up with brittle welds. Its a chemical reaction , I forget the proper terminology right at the moment. I believe if you grind your welds down really well you can weld over flux core 2 or three times tops and it will be ok, but if you continue to do so you will get brittleness and cracking.

Solid wire with shielding gas does not have this problem but its slightly less penetration and it can be tricky if its windy outside.
I did not know he has a110 v welder when I said to lower the amps.
When a person is actually a beginner welder, the word practice practice practice comes to mind.
 
I did not know he has a110 v welder when I said to lower the amps.
When a person is actually a beginner welder, the word practice practice practice comes to mind.

Yep. practice practice, but with a 110 that thickness of steel looks challenging to get penetration. It looks like the weld is on the top surface. I just HATE those Harbor freight welders. I think for novice welders a Lincoln 220 machine that has a pretty straight forward selector knob for wirespeed and voltage is the way to go
 
Yep, most people who dont weld a lot, start moving along before they have a good weld pool going. It takes a little patience at the start of your weld and then a nice slow consistencey
absolutely true.
Every welder that got good practiced a lot. I was a Certified welder for a company and practiced earlier a lot. Community colleges offer welding training for low cost.
 
View attachment 1156129

My biggest problem is... I don't weld enough.

I'm just not fabricating big welding projects.

Once or twice a year, something breaks, like the arm detaching on this patio chair, and I pull out the welder and join it back together.

Sure, it's joined, and it's solid ... happy dance.

:dance:

But man. What a terrible looking weld.

Link to former terrible welds.
Yeah, those are pretty bad. And yes, you need practice.

Lots and lots of practice! :auiqs.jpg:
 
View attachment 1156129

My biggest problem is... I don't weld enough.

I'm just not fabricating big welding projects.

Once or twice a year, something breaks, like the arm detaching on this patio chair, and I pull out the welder and join it back together.

Sure, it's joined, and it's solid ... happy dance.

:dance:

But man. What a terrible looking weld.

Link to former terrible welds.
I can't say I'm any better. Occasionally, I get one right (very rare) and then ask myself why the hell can't I just do them all like that?
 
Yeah, those are pretty bad. And yes, you need practice.

Lots and lots of practice! :auiqs.jpg:


I'm trying to be kind here but he needs something other than a HArbor Fright 110 machine. It would be like a blind man suddenly being able to see. IMO, when a new box for a Harbor frieght welder is opened, it should be positioned directly over the Landfill !
 
I think for novice welders a Lincoln 220 machine that has a pretty straight forward selector knob for wirespeed and voltage is the way to go
I agree. Now if all they have is 110v, they can generate 220v easily.

This is proven to work.
Buy a 220-v motor. Also, a 110-v motor. A fan belt connects both motors, start the 110 v motor which causes the 220 v motor to rotate fast. From that motors wires connect to the 220-v welder. It works since I did it.
 
I'm trying to be kind here but he needs something other than a HArbor Fright 110 machine. It would be like a blind man suddenly being able to see. IMO, when a new box for a Harbor frieght welder is opened, it should be positioned directly over the Landfill !
220v works fine for homes and amateurs. Pros even use that.
 
220v works fine for homes and amateurs. Pros even use that.
I have a Lincoln tomb stone 220v. Put in a 220v line to run it. Starting welding again, but my hood gloves, etc. are long gone. Any recommendations for affordable gear?
 
I have a Lincoln tomb stone 220v. Put in a 220v line to run it. Starting welding again, but my hood gloves, etc. are long gone. Any recommendations for affordable gear?


The best welding gloves you can use are the Tillman brand. Its the only thing I will use, as they allow for finger dexterity. The cheap welding gloves you can by are stiff and NOT worth it. Just get a helmet that is large enough to allow you to wear your respirator underneath, the soft cartriges of course.
 
View attachment 1156129

My biggest problem is... I don't weld enough.

I'm just not fabricating big welding projects.

Once or twice a year, something breaks, like the arm detaching on this patio chair, and I pull out the welder and join it back together.

Sure, it's joined, and it's solid ... happy dance.

:dance:

But man. What a terrible looking weld.

Link to former terrible welds.


One more fun bit of information I'd like to impart. From looking at your weld you probably didnt use any anti-spatter spray. You know the chemical spray you spray on the metal to prevent the little molten drops from sticking to your work surface?

While anyways , way back in the day I had a welding instructor who was from Hawaii... and he gave us all this tip. If you dont have any anti spatter spray available, you can also use spray on coconut oil instead , as it has an incredibly high burn temperature.

Ive used it and it works well! it also makes your project smell like coconuts lol... the only minor drawback is that after it cools off you have a thin layer of coconut oil dried on that you need to remove with soap and water.
 
One more fun bit of information I'd like to impart. From looking at your weld you probably didnt use any anti-spatter spray. You know the chemical spray you spray on the metal to prevent the little molten drops from sticking to your work surface?

While anyways , way back in the day I had a welding instructor who was from Hawaii... and he gave us all this tip. If you dont have any anti spatter spray available, you can also use spray on coconut oil instead , as it has an incredibly high burn temperature.

Ive used it and it works well! it also makes your project smell like coconuts lol... the only minor drawback is that after it cools off you have a thin layer of coconut oil dried on that you need to remove with soap and water.
I owned a machine shop and that is news to me. I was certified weld at an oil refinery when I worked in construction work.
 
15th post
I owned a machine shop and that is news to me. I was certified weld at an oil refinery when I worked in construction work.


Just a fun bit of information I guess, but I had to try it right away to see if it really worked, and it does. What kind of a machine shop did you own? I mean, what types of machines?
 
One more fun bit of information I'd like to impart. From looking at your weld you probably didnt use any anti-spatter spray. You know the chemical spray you spray on the metal to prevent the little molten drops from sticking to your work surface?

While anyways , way back in the day I had a welding instructor who was from Hawaii... and he gave us all this tip. If you dont have any anti spatter spray available, you can also use spray on coconut oil instead , as it has an incredibly high burn temperature.

Ive used it and it works well! it also makes your project smell like coconuts lol... the only minor drawback is that after it cools off you have a thin layer of coconut oil dried on that you need to remove with soap and water.
1756524020980.webp
 

New Topics

Back
Top Bottom