Coffee Rhetoric The Racial Stir Behind Dolce and Gabbana s Blackamoor Earrings
Is it racist?
Discuss
Is it racist?
Discuss
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Dolce & Gabbana's prominently featured blackamoor jewelry and clothing designs were rolled out in its spring 2013 collection fashion show in Milan on Sept. 23. They were called racist by some and blindly insensitive by others. Just last week, rapper Azealia Banks tweeted that she is "definitely boycotting" the luxury-apparel designer for using " 'black mammie' [sic] imagery."
While Dolce & Gabbana is not technically featuring American mammy images, the blackamoor designs evoke a similar sense of racial insensitivity. The design house's fashions are part of a long and complex history of blacks being used as European decorative exotica, dating back centuries.
Dolce & Gabbana has stated that these motifs are drawn from traditional Sicilian majolica ceramic designs that often featured the head of a black man, or a "Moor." Based on Sicilian folklore surrounding the Moorish invasion of southern Italy more than a millennium ago, the particular sources for the fashion house's current designs are not necessarily grounded in slavery. However, blackamoor imagery in general reflects trends in decorative arts that recall the history of slaves in Europe and the disturbing manner in which the European luxury culture objectified black bodies as mere ornament.
In European courts, such as France's Versailles in the 17th century, black court slaves dressed in exotic garb were symbols of wealth and luxury. Portraits of fashionable, aristocratic women often featured black attendants. The proximity of dark servants made the women look whiter and, thus, more beautiful by local standards. Furniture with black bodies supporting tables or holding candelabra mimicked the kind of labor these slaves performed. They became increasingly popularized through the 19th century.