A Quest to Find an Endangered Sandwich
An argument to bring back liverwurst, the least popular sandwich option in New York
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OneOne of my favorite sandwiches is liverwurst and its variant,
braunschweiger, which is probably one of the least popular sandwich options in New York City. Hear me out.
A filling in a sandwich made on rye, pumpernickel, or whole wheat, and dressed with mustard and sometimes raw onions, liverwurst was in many kids’ lunch bag rotation thirty years ago, though even then, it seemed oddly old fashioned. And even then, it wasn’t wildly popular since it didn’t look like other luncheon meats, pate-like with its coarse texture and grayish-brown color. But it was cheap — which is partly why it was on many sandwich rosters of the past. With prices escalating and sandwiches hitting $20 or more, perhaps now is the moment to bring this one back. Liverwurst is not that different from the many pates on appetizer sections of restaurant menus; granted, it’s more lowbrow. And it fits right in with
this throwback moment.
Liverwurst
refers to a cooked sausage made from at least 30 percent pork, beef, veal or goat livers, plus trimmings and other offal; it apparently originated in Strassburg, Austria. Braunschweiger, its cousin (one that is familiar to people in, say,
Pittsburgh), is a style of liver sausage that originated in the German city of Braunschwieg made from only pork livers, offal and scraps.
Even back in the 1980s, it was a hard-to-find sandwich, with Mimi Sheraton of
the New York Times commenting on it following the release of
a Gunter Grass novel,
Headbirth, or The Germans Are Dying Out. “Throughout the book, the reader is aware of a coarse, lightly smoked liver sausage that is being carried from a butcher in Schleswig to the German Ambassador in Peking, who is longing for that soothingly rich and spicy taste of home,” she writes. But back then, “few sausage factories make liverwurst the way they used to,” she notes, citing the old
Schaller & Weber as one of the places to get a good one, “flavored with onion, bacon or made with calf’s liver,” that could be either sliced or spread.
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An argument to bring back liverwurst, the least popular sandwich option in New York
ny.eater.com