Missourian
Diamond Member
The linkage that activates the starter in the steering column of my F150 (gen 8) is giving up...had to turn it with plyers to get it to crank....so I installed an ignition push button start in the dash.
This is how I did it. It isn't necessarily the right way...but it worked for me...ymmv...attempt at your own risk.
The F150 has a starter solenoid on the fender behind the battery. I ran two 14 gauge wires up the fender and across the firewall to the brake booster.
Behind the brake booster is a hole though the firewall. Ran the wires though and they came out under the dash.
There is a blank space available in the lower dash away from the column on the right side. Drilled a 3/4 inch hole for the button. That lower dash just pops loose when pried with a wide bladed standard screw driver.
I use O'Reilly's SSB5 two terminal ignition switch.
One of the wires went to each terminal.
Back at the solenoid...I disconnected the wire to the solenoid that goes to the positive battery terminal. Mine is a three terminal (threaded studs) solenoid...two large on either side and a small one in the centered above the other two. One of the larger terminal studs is the one that went to the positive battery connection. The other goes to the starter and can be ignored.
Crimp or solder appropriate eye connecters to the two wires...one large and one small. I needed a 10-32 nut for the small terminal stud to hold the eye connector in contact, as the lead from the key ignition just pushed on like a sparkplug wire.
Since the button ignition switch isn't polarized...it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal. You are basicly installing a 12 volt momentary switch.
And that was it. Works like a charm. Still have to turn the key to the on position...so not like new car fob activated ignition buttons...but instead of pulling the steering wheel and column sheathing, etc...this took maybe an hour and looks pretty spiffy.
You could certainly find another 12 volt source closer and run a shorter wire for power...but since I was running one wire though...two wasn't any harder.
I had wire and most of the eye connectors. The SSB5 switch was $14. Had to buy the 10-32 nut at Ace...23 cents...and some #10 eye connectors (got a bigger one on there in the pictures that works...but better ti have the right size so I'm going to change it)
Pics to follow...
This is how I did it. It isn't necessarily the right way...but it worked for me...ymmv...attempt at your own risk.
The F150 has a starter solenoid on the fender behind the battery. I ran two 14 gauge wires up the fender and across the firewall to the brake booster.
Behind the brake booster is a hole though the firewall. Ran the wires though and they came out under the dash.
There is a blank space available in the lower dash away from the column on the right side. Drilled a 3/4 inch hole for the button. That lower dash just pops loose when pried with a wide bladed standard screw driver.
I use O'Reilly's SSB5 two terminal ignition switch.
One of the wires went to each terminal.
Back at the solenoid...I disconnected the wire to the solenoid that goes to the positive battery terminal. Mine is a three terminal (threaded studs) solenoid...two large on either side and a small one in the centered above the other two. One of the larger terminal studs is the one that went to the positive battery connection. The other goes to the starter and can be ignored.
Crimp or solder appropriate eye connecters to the two wires...one large and one small. I needed a 10-32 nut for the small terminal stud to hold the eye connector in contact, as the lead from the key ignition just pushed on like a sparkplug wire.
Since the button ignition switch isn't polarized...it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal. You are basicly installing a 12 volt momentary switch.
And that was it. Works like a charm. Still have to turn the key to the on position...so not like new car fob activated ignition buttons...but instead of pulling the steering wheel and column sheathing, etc...this took maybe an hour and looks pretty spiffy.
You could certainly find another 12 volt source closer and run a shorter wire for power...but since I was running one wire though...two wasn't any harder.
I had wire and most of the eye connectors. The SSB5 switch was $14. Had to buy the 10-32 nut at Ace...23 cents...and some #10 eye connectors (got a bigger one on there in the pictures that works...but better ti have the right size so I'm going to change it)
Pics to follow...
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