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With a full moon and my 300mm lens I don't have to use any filter and normally the exposure is like 1/80th of a second and f8, depending on how big and bright it is with the camera on a tripod.Did you get a shot? I have trouble with the moon on full moon nights as I don't have the right filter and the contrast blows the shot.The crater I got a great view of was Tycho. The rays extending out from the crater were really lit up, very cool!
Don't think my telephoto lens is 300mm, but I will try that manual setting with what I have, using my small tripod, that I use for taking longer exposure shots of stars, witch works for me setting for delayed shot. At 1/80th I can problem get away with pushing the button direct?With a full moon and my 300mm lens I don't have to use any filter and normally the exposure is like 1/80th of a second and f8, depending on how big and bright it is with the camera on a tripod.Did you get a shot? I have trouble with the moon on full moon nights as I don't have the right filter and the contrast blows the shot.The crater I got a great view of was Tycho. The rays extending out from the crater were really lit up, very cool!
I would use a remote, or shutter delay if you have it.Don't think my telephoto lens is 300mm, but I will try that manual setting with what I have, using my small tripod, that I use for taking longer exposure shots of stars, witch works for me setting for delayed shot. At 1/80th I can problem get away with pushing the button direct?With a full moon and my 300mm lens I don't have to use any filter and normally the exposure is like 1/80th of a second and f8, depending on how big and bright it is with the camera on a tripod.Did you get a shot? I have trouble with the moon on full moon nights as I don't have the right filter and the contrast blows the shot.The crater I got a great view of was Tycho. The rays extending out from the crater were really lit up, very cool!
And you really should use spot metering to set the exposure. My setting above may not be correct depending on your camera and conditions.I would use a remote, or shutter delay if you have it.Don't think my telephoto lens is 300mm, but I will try that manual setting with what I have, using my small tripod, that I use for taking longer exposure shots of stars, witch works for me setting for delayed shot. At 1/80th I can problem get away with pushing the button direct?With a full moon and my 300mm lens I don't have to use any filter and normally the exposure is like 1/80th of a second and f8, depending on how big and bright it is with the camera on a tripod.Did you get a shot? I have trouble with the moon on full moon nights as I don't have the right filter and the contrast blows the shot.The crater I got a great view of was Tycho. The rays extending out from the crater were really lit up, very cool!
Have not been using a separate meter. My manual settings are guess and adjust. Probably should.And you really should use spot metering to set the exposure. My setting above may not be correct depending on your camera and conditions.I would use a remote, or shutter delay if you have it.Don't think my telephoto lens is 300mm, but I will try that manual setting with what I have, using my small tripod, that I use for taking longer exposure shots of stars, witch works for me setting for delayed shot. At 1/80th I can problem get away with pushing the button direct?With a full moon and my 300mm lens I don't have to use any filter and normally the exposure is like 1/80th of a second and f8, depending on how big and bright it is with the camera on a tripod.Did you get a shot? I have trouble with the moon on full moon nights as I don't have the right filter and the contrast blows the shot.The crater I got a great view of was Tycho. The rays extending out from the crater were really lit up, very cool!
Actually, for contrast, here's a picture of the Moon taken maybe a month ago by my friend's little boy, snapshot afocally using a cellphone camera held up to the eyepiece of a small, department store refractor the father owns at left. Seeing the potential, I further post-processed the image in Corel to extract all of the info out of it, seen on the right. The slight color shading differences you see are real, due to mineralogical differences on the Moon. If you click on my picture, it should show it closer to 1:1, which isn't too big.A friend of mine says it will actually be fuller tomorrow night, but this was looking pretty damn full tonight:
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That's a metering issue. You need to increase scale and be sure you are only metering off the face of the Moon.Did you get a shot? I have trouble with the moon on full moon nights as I don't have the right filter and the contrast blows the shot.The crater I got a great view of was Tycho. The rays extending out from the crater were really lit up, very cool!
Actually, that's not quite right, either. Yes, the Moon is reflecting sunlight, but the Moon's albedo is only 0.12, meaning that it only reflects 12% of the sunlight. The Moon is actually very dark. Then there is the problem of gradients as the amount of reflected light will be far stronger towards the center and much weaker towards the edges where the curve of the Moon is facing away from the Earth..The thing to keep in mind, and what many people don't, is that the moon exposes like daylight. Think about it: it's reflecting the sun.I have trouble with the moon on full moon nights as I don't have the right filter and the contrast blows the shot.
Need to get of my butt and buy a decent meter, separate from the camera. It is pretty smart in the daytime and at distance, but at night, even in manual mode, can't make up for bad guess work and it's internal electronics are no where near up to the task in automatic mode.That's a metering issue. You need to increase scale and be sure you are only metering off the face of the Moon.Did you get a shot? I have trouble with the moon on full moon nights as I don't have the right filter and the contrast blows the shot.The crater I got a great view of was Tycho. The rays extending out from the crater were really lit up, very cool!
The problem with too much technology is that it makes people more dependent on it. My father was a WWII Navy Recon photographer who ran his own business after the war and got me interested at a very early age. My first exposure to picture taking was a Speed Graphic and an Omega enlarger. My dad could pretty much just look at a situation and guess the exposure by eye. He'd look at the subject, say it should take about so and so lens opening at such and such a shutter and he was right! He also had a light meter which I still have (made by GE) but I never saw him use it very often, more I think in indoor situations with artificial light.Need to get of my butt and buy a decent meter, separate from the camera. It is pretty smart in the daytime and at distance, but at night, even in manual mode, can't make up for bad guess work and it's internal electronics are no where near up to the task in automatic mode.That's a metering issue. You need to increase scale and be sure you are only metering off the face of the Moon.Did you get a shot? I have trouble with the moon on full moon nights as I don't have the right filter and the contrast blows the shot.The crater I got a great view of was Tycho. The rays extending out from the crater were really lit up, very cool!
Thanks. I read the first one and saved both to bookmarks.The problem with too much technology is that it makes people more dependent on it. My father was a WWII Navy Recon photographer who ran his own business after the war and got me interested at a very early age. My first exposure to picture taking was a Speed Graphic and an Omega enlarger. My dad could pretty much just look at a situation and guess the exposure by eye. He'd look at the subject, say it should take about so and so lens opening at such and such a shutter and he was right! He also had a light meter which I still have (made by GE) but I never saw him use it very often, more I think in indoor situations with artificial light.Need to get of my butt and buy a decent meter, separate from the camera. It is pretty smart in the daytime and at distance, but at night, even in manual mode, can't make up for bad guess work and it's internal electronics are no where near up to the task in automatic mode.That's a metering issue. You need to increase scale and be sure you are only metering off the face of the Moon.Did you get a shot? I have trouble with the moon on full moon nights as I don't have the right filter and the contrast blows the shot.The crater I got a great view of was Tycho. The rays extending out from the crater were really lit up, very cool!
Here are a few sites you can try looking at. From the limited information, you should be able to calculate a good exposure. Of course, the beauty of digital is that not only do you find out right away if your picture was good or a flop, but when in doubt, UNDEREXPOSE, you can always do a gamma stretch after the fact and pull data out of the noise floor. Always better to underexpose than to clip. Once the sensor clips full well saturation, that is information lost impossible to recover.
How do I set the proper exposure for nighttime moon photos?
All my attempts to get a good shot of the full moon with my DSLR result in an overexposed circle on a black background. I've tried using a tripod, remote shutter release, low ISO, and long exposur...photo.stackexchange.com
Of course, the other dirty little secret is SCALE. Being able to shoot the Moon covering most or all of the frame is always easier than just as a small orb in part of it! Here's what the Moon looks like shot through my 1200mm f/8 telephoto using an ASI178MM camera.
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