Problem with my front door .. question

Quasar44

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Jun 21, 2020
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A few days ago, I noticed the mental striker was not hitting the pad properly on the lock.
I would have to use force to pull the door inwards ( from the outside) to get the striker to properly close the door

The maintanence guy only filed down the hole or pad area
Now the door aligns well but I have a bigger spaced in my strkiing pad

I guess its ok as the door closes
 
Maybe he should have replaced the door hinges first before filing down the wood area with a tool
 
A few days ago, I noticed the mental striker was not hitting the pad properly on the lock.
I would have to use force to pull the door inwards ( from the outside) to get the striker to properly close the door

The maintanence guy only filed down the hole or pad area
Now the door aligns well but I have a bigger spaced in my strkiing pad

I guess its ok as the door closes


Global warming strikes again
 
Maybe he should have replaced the door hinges first before filing down the wood area with a tool
only if they were loose or bent. I have an inside door that is never happy 24/7/365. It tends to not lock tight in cold weather months and be like a bank vault door when locked in the summer months. Only possible reason I can think of is that the AC/heat unit used to be under it until they ripped it out to do outside unit so may be something to do with that one joist.
 
only if they were loose or bent. I have an inside door that is never happy 24/7/365. It tends to not lock tight in cold weather months and be like a bank vault door when locked in the summer months. Only possible reason I can think of is that the AC/heat unit used to be under it until they ripped it out to do outside unit so may be something to do with that one joist.
Seasonal changes in how doors work is usually due to moisture. Wood can shrink or expand dramatically depending on humidity.
 
WOW!! Did not know that

Was the guy correct is using an electric chisel
No. If a door ever worked correctly but is now sticking the problem is nearly always with the hinges. As a door expert it's always the first thing I check. I do this by opening the door a few inches and pulling upward. If the door moves at all the screws are loose. When closed such a problem shows in the crack between the door and the jamb. It will be wider at the bottom and rub at the top.
 
WOW!! Did not know that

Was the guy correct is using an electric chisel
He was also correct, saying hinge screws could be loose, and like he said, most likely top hinge if it is the case. Also, should be noted that not only do changes in seasonal humidity affect (seen when problem present and later goes away and mostly in parts of the country with larger swings in average humidity than your area) seasonal changes also affect the long term shape and square on the hinge side jamb, that is carrying the weight of the door, causing sag, Inward hinge or jamb sag on hinge side will lower the lock strike relative to the jamb mounted strike plate, and also might present as a difference in the margin between the top of the door and the head jamb, as viewed from the inside on an inswing door. If not installed correctly with a longer screw at center position of hinge to catch the stud through the shim, door can begin to sag, simply by constant use or especially slamming of the door. Worse case scenario requiring removal of the casing, re-plumb and square, re-shim and reattach casing. Many if not most problems often go back to original installation. If the first thing handy man checked wasn't square (using framing square), Plumb (using 4 ft or longer level) and level at the head of the door in the open position, he was probably a bozo.
 
He was also correct, saying hinge screws could be loose, and like he said, most likely top hinge if it is the case. Also, should be noted that not only do changes in seasonal humidity affect (seen when problem present and later goes away and mostly in parts of the country with larger swings in average humidity than your area) seasonal changes also affect the long term shape and square on the hinge side jamb, that is carrying the weight of the door, causing sag, Inward hinge or jamb sag on hinge side will lower the lock strike relative to the jamb mounted strike plate, and also might present as a difference in the margin between the top of the door and the head jamb, as viewed from the inside on an inswing door. If not installed correctly with a longer screw at center position of hinge to catch the stud through the shim, door can begin to sag, simply by constant use or especially slamming of the door. Worse case scenario requiring removal of the casing, re-plumb and square, re-shim and reattach casing. Many if not most problems often go back to original installation. If the first thing handy man checked wasn't square (using framing square), Plumb (using 4 ft or longer level) and level at the head of the door in the open position, he was probably a bozo.
We have a constant problem around here with foundations settling (Florida). Some doors just have to be reinstalled to work properly. Alternatively they can tell you when you've jacked up the house enough.
 
We have a constant problem around here with foundations settling (Florida). Some doors just have to be reinstalled to work properly. Alternatively they can tell you when you've jacked up the house enough.

Ok did I damage it by maybe pushing VERY HARD on the outside because my ocd wants to make sure the door is properly closed
 
We have a constant problem around here with foundations settling (Florida). Some doors just have to be reinstalled to work properly. Alternatively they can tell you when you've jacked up the house enough.
I have heard the ground can be unstable down there, and you high humidity that feels like one water molecule for every air molecule, if three miles in from the beach. I can't say from a training point and never worked there, thought the company did well there.
Here is what I can tell you about house settling in other places. Usually not the case, where proper grading and compaction are codified. Problem in this region in the 70s, 80s and even 90s was more often the contractor shortcuts on the ground, foundation and installation of millwork, especially doors and window, and particularly proper shimming. I have had contractors argue if shimming to the MFG spec requirements, and the house settles, the doors are almost impossible to adjust without tearing up the jambs. That is until convinced to play it by the book, they discover the house houses do not settle anywhere near as they tried to make out. If you really have gross settling you should be seeing crack in the corners of crown joints, and possibly where drywall meets, as settle affect walls and studding.

You guys have very sandy soil and parts of your state have problems with sinkholes opening up and actually swallowing whole houses and destroying hotels. So in your case, sorry, you are asking the wrong guy.
 
I have heard the ground can be unstable down there, and you high humidity that feels like one water molecule for every air molecule, if three miles in from the beach. I can't say from a training point and never worked there, thought the company did well there.
Here is what I can tell you about house settling in other places. Usually not the case, where proper grading and compaction are codified. Problem in this region in the 70s, 80s and even 90s was more often the contractor shortcuts on the ground, foundation and installation of millwork, especially doors and window, and particularly proper shimming. I have had contractors argue if shimming to the MFG spec requirements, and the house settles, the doors are almost impossible to adjust without tearing up the jambs. That is until convinced to play it by the book, they discover the house houses do not settle anywhere near as they tried to make out. If you really have gross settling you should be seeing crack in the corners of crown joints, and possibly where drywall meets, as settle affect walls and studding.

You guys have very sandy soil and parts of your state have problems with sinkholes opening up and actually swallowing whole houses and destroying hotels. So in your case, sorry, you are asking the wrong guy.
On the older beach houses I routinely work on the foundations are often wood pilings. 30 years ago the methods of framing on wood pilings were not well codified. I have had to straighten houses that have settled so much there is a 8+ inch difference between the high and low points.
 
On the older beach houses I routinely work on the foundations are often wood pilings. 30 years ago the methods of framing on wood pilings were not well codified. I have had to straighten houses that have settled so much there is a 8+ inch difference between the high and low points.
You got me beat for experience down there. I just lease for vacations up on "The Forgotten Coast", Cape San Blas area.
 
You got me beat for experience down there. I just lease for vacations up on "The Forgotten Coast", Cape San Blas area.
I work on Saint George Island right down the coast from there. Nothing like the forgotten coast anywhere else in Florida.
 
Seasonal changes in how doors work is usually due to moisture. Wood can shrink or expand dramatically depending on humidity.

Usually but this one is a unicorn so I think something else is at play. There are 5 other doors within 10 feet of it and none of them have issues.
 

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