Muscle car guys... holler at me.

[DGS49]

I had a '68 Goat with the single 4bbl (no Ram Air). I think it was (over)rated at 335hp. 4-spd, of course.

I miss the torque that would push me back against the seats, but the actual numbers indicate my 4-cylinder BMW is actually faster than the GTO was, and 25mpg vs about 14.

I much prefer the resto-mod philosophy. Disc brakes, fuel injection, better suspension, better wheels and tires. Make it look original but bring it up to date.

 

[Beef_Supreme]

I have recently taken into my possession a 1971 gto. Motor and trans has all been rebuilt and runs beautifully. Head work done, cam, headers, etc. I replaced the convertible
roof. I need to fix the AC. I also want to make it a posi rear. Couple questions for any of you folks...
Do you know any good mechanics/speed shops down here in south Florida? What about AC repair?
I was thinking about installing an Aussie locker in the rear end. Any better suggestions?
Also, the car currently has 15x8 inch rims with 235 wide tires. I like the staggered look, and wanted to go wider in the rear. My options are 275’s or 295’s. I’m not sure if the 295’s will fit the rear. Any thoughts?

168 street auto parts can steer you right . Down in Perrine

I googled it. Didnt find anyplace with that name.

 

[Beef_Supreme]

I had a '68 Goat with the single 4bbl (no Ram Air). I think it was (over)rated at 335hp. 4-spd, of course.

I miss the torque that would push me back against the seats, but the actual numbers indicate my 4-cylinder BMW is actually faster than the GTO was, and 25mpg vs about 14.

I much prefer the resto-mod philosophy. Disc brakes, fuel injection, better suspension, better wheels and tires. Make it look original but bring it up to date.

That’s what I like as well.
I like the body style of the old cars. And big cubic inches. But old shitty motors, shit suspension, ugly ass rims and tires.. gotta go.

 

[Jarlaxle]

View attachment 423945

Beautiful car.
Mine has an edelbrock carb on it right now (I believe, haven’t seen for myself). I still have the q-jet carb.
Should I just leave the edelbrock? Or is there a big performance gain with the q-jet?
I guess I will see how it runs once I take possession.

Q-jet is a better street carb, if set up properly.

 

[Jarlaxle]

I have recently taken into my possession a 1971 gto. Motor and trans has all been rebuilt and runs beautifully. Head work done, cam, headers, etc. I replaced the convertible
roof. I need to fix the AC. I also want to make it a posi rear. Couple questions for any of you folks...
Do you know any good mechanics/speed shops down here in south Florida? What about AC repair?
I was thinking about installing an Aussie locker in the rear end. Any better suggestions?
Also, the car currently has 15x8 inch rims with 235 wide tires. I like the staggered look, and wanted to go wider in the rear. My options are 275’s or 295’s. I’m not sure if the 295’s will fit the rear. Any thoughts?

Handling at high speeds is important...be careful....don't replace safety for looks....Nice car...

Very true.
At some point in the future, I’d like to replace all the brakes for newer discs. As well as replacing/upgrading suspension with BMR products or something along those lines.

Stock brakes are OK, though I recall 1LE/WS6 F-body brakes are a bolt-on.

Is the rear axle a 12-bolt or the weird Olds/Pontiac thing?

 

[Beef_Supreme]

Good to

I have recently taken into my possession a 1971 gto. Motor and trans has all been rebuilt and runs beautifully. Head work done, cam, headers, etc. I replaced the convertible
roof. I need to fix the AC. I also want to make it a posi rear. Couple questions for any of you folks...
Do you know any good mechanics/speed shops down here in south Florida? What about AC repair?
I was thinking about installing an Aussie locker in the rear end. Any better suggestions?
Also, the car currently has 15x8 inch rims with 235 wide tires. I like the staggered look, and wanted to go wider in the rear. My options are 275’s or 295’s. I’m not sure if the 295’s will fit the rear. Any thoughts?

Handling at high speeds is important...be careful....don't replace safety for looks....Nice car...

Very true.
At some point in the future, I’d like to replace all the brakes for newer discs. As well as replacing/upgrading suspension with BMR products or something along those lines.

Stock brakes are OK, though I recall 1LE/WS6 F-body brakes are a bolt-on.

Is the rear axle a 12-bolt or the weird Olds/Pontiac thing?

Good to know about the brakes. I’ll have to check that out.
No idea about the rear. I haven’t taken possession of the car yet

 

[Thevolunteerwino]

View attachment 423945

Beautiful car.
Mine has an edelbrock carb on it right now (I believe, haven’t seen for myself). I still have the q-jet carb.
Should I just leave the edelbrock? Or is there a big performance gain with the q-jet?
I guess I will see how it runs once I take possession.

I always thought the tuning of the carb was most important regardless of which you choose. Your choice depends alot on your cam . displacement intake manifold. etc. I used to have a 1970 pontiac Lemans with a 350 motor and a turbo 350 tranny. Ran like a bat out of hell whenever i tuned the carbs and had the tranny downshift linkage also in perfect adjustment. Loved to cruse at a moderate speed then fully depress the accelerator to the floor. A bad tuned carb may not even be hardly noticable in the long use but it is a power noticable hindrance the day you tune it all in properly. What a difference

 

[Beef_Supreme]

View attachment 423945

Beautiful car.
Mine has an edelbrock carb on it right now (I believe, haven’t seen for myself). I still have the q-jet carb.
Should I just leave the edelbrock? Or is there a big performance gain with the q-jet?
I guess I will see how it runs once I take possession.

I always thought the tuning of the carb was most important regardless of which you choose. Your choice depends alot on your cam . displacement intake manifold. etc. I used to have a 1970 pontiac Lemans with a 350 motor and a turbo 350 tranny. Ran like a bat out of hell whenever i tuned the carbs and had the tranny downshift linkage also in perfect adjustment. Loved to cruse at a moderate speed then fully depress the accelerator to the floor. A bad tuned carb may not even be hardly noticable in the long use but it is a power noticable hindrance the day you tune it all in properly. What a difference

Mmmm.
Well, lucky me... I don’t know much about carbs (besides what they do, how they do it) and have never used one. They are before my time. So learning how to tune a carb should be awesome, especially considering that nobody uses them besides old car guys. Gonna need to find a car club around me or somethjng.

 

[Thevolunteerwino]

View attachment 423945

Beautiful car.
Mine has an edelbrock carb on it right now (I believe, haven’t seen for myself). I still have the q-jet carb.
Should I just leave the edelbrock? Or is there a big performance gain with the q-jet?
I guess I will see how it runs once I take possession.

I always thought the tuning of the carb was most important regardless of which you choose. Your choice depends alot on your cam . displacement intake manifold. etc. I used to have a 1970 pontiac Lemans with a 350 motor and a turbo 350 tranny. Ran like a bat out of hell whenever i tuned the carbs and had the tranny downshift linkage also in perfect adjustment. Loved to cruse at a moderate speed then fully depress the accelerator to the floor. A bad tuned carb may not even be hardly noticable in the long use but it is a power noticable hindrance the day you tune it all in properly. What a difference

Mmmm.
Well, lucky me... I don’t know much about carbs (besides what they do, how they do it) and have never used one. They are before my time. So learning how to tune a carb should be awesome, especially considering that nobody uses them besides old car guys. Gonna need to find a car club around me or somethjng.

Get an old carb. Any kind will do. Just for practice. Get a rebuild kit. Rebuild it. You will know everything you need to about carburators.
Owning an older car is awesome if you work on it yourself. Its not like these newer cars with computers that you cant really tell whats wrong with it without hooking it up.
With the old ones once you start working on them you get to know them personally and if something goes wrong you just immediatly know what it is.
On a rare occasion you dont its simple. If it wo t start. Two things. Gas or spark. Look in carb amd pump the accelerator. If you see gas its the spark as long as it isnt flooded with gas. Once you see gas remove a single spark plug wire stick a screwdriver in it and have someone turn it over while you hold the screwdriver about 1/8 inch away from any carbound metal. Watch for a spark.
They are easy to troubleshoot and very easy to fix
7 bolts. 30 minutes. And 75 bucks and your back on the road.

 

[Beef_Supreme]

View attachment 423945

Beautiful car.
Mine has an edelbrock carb on it right now (I believe, haven’t seen for myself). I still have the q-jet carb.
Should I just leave the edelbrock? Or is there a big performance gain with the q-jet?
I guess I will see how it runs once I take possession.

I always thought the tuning of the carb was most important regardless of which you choose. Your choice depends alot on your cam . displacement intake manifold. etc. I used to have a 1970 pontiac Lemans with a 350 motor and a turbo 350 tranny. Ran like a bat out of hell whenever i tuned the carbs and had the tranny downshift linkage also in perfect adjustment. Loved to cruse at a moderate speed then fully depress the accelerator to the floor. A bad tuned carb may not even be hardly noticable in the long use but it is a power noticable hindrance the day you tune it all in properly. What a difference

Mmmm.
Well, lucky me... I don’t know much about carbs (besides what they do, how they do it) and have never used one. They are before my time. So learning how to tune a carb should be awesome, especially considering that nobody uses them besides old car guys. Gonna need to find a car club around me or somethjng.

Get an old carb. Any kind will do. Just for practice. Get a rebuild kit. Rebuild it. You will know everything you need to about carburators.
Owning an older car is awesome if you work on it yourself. Its not like these newer cars with computers that you cant really tell whats wrong with it without hooking it up.
With the old ones once you start working on them you get to know them personally and if something goes wrong you just immediatly know what it is.
On a rare occasion you dont its simple. If it wo t start. Two things. Gas or spark. Look in carb amd pump the accelerator. If you see gas its the spark as long as it isnt flooded with gas. Once you see gas remove a single spark plug wire stick a screwdriver in it and have someone turn it over while you hold the screwdriver about 1/8 inch away from any carbound metal. Watch for a spark.
They are easy to troubleshoot and very easy to fix
7 bolts. 30 minutes. And 75 bucks and your back on the road.

Awesome. I really look forward to getting to meet some older/knowledgeable car guys and learning things like this.