Have you sucessfully extracted a broken bolt?

[White 6]

One time I had several 1 inch bolts I couldn't break loose from a large piece of machinery. Even with a 6 foot cheater pipe on a breaker bar they wouldn't budge.
So I sprayed them down with Kroil with silicone penetrating oil and went to lunch. When I came back from lunch the bolts came out smooth as silk without using the cheater pipe. ...

I will remember the Kroil recommendation if it ever comes up again. Sounds like would have been good back in my tanking days. Been known to bend 6 ft cheater bars. Then we grabbed the torch.

 

[Natural Citizen]

I've got to replace my fuel pressure regulator diaphram and then remove and clean my throttle body, but the IAC is on the botom of it. Think there's 7 bolts attaching it to the TB. Then I think 5 more bolts on the fuel pressure regulator.

In both cases they're small 30 year old torx bolts, so gare awn teed all 12 bolts are gonna break, just because they're not big bolts. They're really long and skinny. I'll pick up the replacement bolts ahead of time, though.

I'll hit em with some PB Blaster every day for a few days before I go to take em off. Might not break any with that stuff. Especially if you're hitting them every day with a good spray.

Actually, the best penetrating oil for seized and rusted bolts that I've used is this stuff, believe it or not...

 

[HenryBHough]

You might find it in a curiosity shop.

It used to be called "Drip Gas". Best penetrating lubricant and frozen bolt extractor ever. A really nasty smelling liquid that wasn't sold, rather gathered.

When natural gas hadn't been invented (that is commercialized) "city" gas used to be made by roasting coke. Not the beverage; a low grade of coal. One problem with it (other than it being lethal when inhaled, hence the term, "took the gas pipe) was that is contained a lot of moisture. In older cities you might have seen in the streets black iron caps legended "gas drip". Those covered little traps which caught the moisture. They were periodically pumped out. And that's where the penetrating substance came from. Beats me why nobody ever commercialized it. I had a quart or two about 60 years ago but have long since used it up or lost it in one of a dozen moves. Wish I hadn't!

Closest commercial product I ever found was KROIL. Not the aerosol variety - a pale imitation of the original product. I haven't been able to find any in that straight liquid form but if you're in a palce with some old local hardware stores you might still find some.

Otherwise - good luck with "extractors". The main problems with them?
1. Drill a small hole to get a small-diameter extractor in and it'll break off.
2. Drill a large hole to get a strong extractor in and the extractor will expand the broken-off bolt slightly and jam it in even worse.

So if one breaks and you re-drill don't get over enthusiastic on size. Biggest is not always bestest!

 

[Sunni Man]

Closest commercial product I ever found was KROIL. Not the aerosol variety - a pale imitation of the original product. I haven't been able to find any in that straight liquid form but if you're in a palce with some old local hardware stores you might still find some.

Amazon now has Kroil products for sale. You can also buy Kroil oil direct from the factory. I've never seen it for sale at automotive parts stores or anywhere else. ...

 

[Shawnee_b]

Yes, many times. Not with 100% success though!

 

[petro]

Thanks. That $10 Irwin is the one I broke. I think the problem is the s.t. screws were 3/8ths steel in an aluminum trailer that has been subjected to road salt for a quarter century. I suspect electrolysis corrosion seized the screws and they just weren't letting go.

Yeah. Aluminum is an issue with snowmobile carriage bolts and bolts for the track adjustment. Add the corrosion from road salt when towing them on trailer and those suckers will weld themselves to the aluminum.
Now I use anti seize compound and check if bolts turn every season.
When I replaced plywood on trailer floor I just busted up plywood by cutting into sections then took a grinder to rid aluminum frame of all old screw heads. Then replaced with new self tapping screws.

 

[HenryBHough]

Amazon now has Kroil products for sale. You can also buy Kroil oil direct from the factory. I've never seen it for sale at automotive parts stores or anywhere else. ...

I've seen it in commercial hardware suppliers storefront shops; not typical in places like Lowe's or Home Depot, even ACE and similar. Amazon tends to be extremely conservative on what they'll ship to certain locations. Anything oil based raises red flags for them and they'll refuse to ship to anyplace where USPS or similar has no ground service. For example, Alaska and Hawaii. Worth trying but don't be surprised if they wimp out on you.

 

[Sunni Man]

Amazon tends to be extremely conservative on what they'll ship to certain locations. Anything oil based raises red flags for them and they'll refuse to ship to anyplace where USPS or similar has no ground service. For example, Alaska and Hawaii. Worth trying but don't be surprised if they wimp out on you.

Personally, I order Kroil oil directly from the Krano company.
But once I ordered some from Amazon with no problem. ...

 

[Sunni Man]

I've used the Mayhew broken bolt extractors with good results.

 

[Shawnee_b]

Thanks. I'm a big fan of penetrating oil. This Deep Creep is the best I've found so far that I can buy locally. Started spraying these three days ago. I'll definitely give that Silikroil a try.

Yes Kroil, orange can. Been using it all my life. Now ATF is also a good penetrant too! Don't forget heat and a couple well directed whacks. Do you have a whack it? Some call them "impact drivers" Handheld. Use the right hardened bit, set it, set left or right and whack it. It's like setting a phillips on a stubborn screw, apply torque and whack lightly but handheld impacts are better and indispensable.

Then put it back together like NO MANUFACTURER ever does or ever did. ANTISIEZE

 

[mudwhistle]

I dont think I have. I did break an extractor off today. After that there was no way I was going to try to drill though it.

The rest I just drilled out. They'd been in there holes for 26 years...steel self tapping screws in aluminum crossmembers...so I expected sheering.

As an aside, I have to say...Deep Creep penetrating spray from Seafoam did a great job. Over 2/3rds were sucessfully removed intact.

But the extractors were a huge fail...both Irwin and Warrior brand. Not a single extraction...one extactor stripped and the other broke.

Is there a technique I'm failing to grasp?

Two ways...either with an easy out or by using a torch.

 

[Likkmee]

OK. 50 "replies".I've removes hundreds. A good sharp tungsten,a lil 5/64 filler and a foot pedal.Grab it with a grip-on or 410 Channelock

 

[Sunni Man]

Grab it with a grip-on or 410 Channelock

That won't work if the bolt is broke off flush or below the surface. ...

 

[Sunni Man]

Yeah. Aluminum is an issue with snowmobile carriage bolts and bolts for the track adjustment. Add the corrosion from road salt when towing them on trailer and those suckers will weld themselves to the aluminum.
Now I use anti seize compound and check if bolts turn every season.
When I replaced plywood on trailer floor I just busted up plywood by cutting into sections then took a grinder to rid aluminum frame of all old screw heads. Then replaced with new self tapping screws.

Here is an interesting article about dissimilar metals and how to prevent two metal galvanic corrosion. ...

How to deal with dissimilar metals

Trailer manufacturers know that when using two dissimilar metals, precautions need to be taken to prevent two-metal (galvanic) corrosion. That applies

www.trailer-bodybuilders.com

 

[Shawnee_b]

 

[Jarlaxle]

Same with aircraft...but worse.
Break off a bolt in a Continental IO-550 and you practically need the FAA's and NTSB's blessing to repair it.

Why I could never work on airplanes...I think I have about seven or eight Helicoil repairs in my Caddy's engine. probably stronger than the stock threads.

 

[Jarlaxle]

I've got to replace my fuel pressure regulator diaphram and then remove and clean my throttle body, but the IAC is on the botom of it. Think there's 7 bolts attaching it to the TB. Then I think 5 more bolts on the fuel pressure regulator.

In both cases they're small 30 year old torx bolts, so gare awn teed all 12 bolts are gonna break, just because they're not big bolts. They're really long and skinny. I'll pick up the replacement bolts ahead of time, though.

I'll hit em with some PB Blaster every day for a few days before I go to take em off. Might not break any with that stuff. Especially if you're hitting them every day with a good spray.

Actually, the best penetrating oil for seized and rusted bolts that I've used is this stuff, believe it or not...

Get them hot (propane torch, heat gun) then quench them with the penetrating oil.

 

[Jarlaxle]

Grab it with a grip-on or 410 Channelock

That won't work if the bolt is broke off flush or below the surface. ...

Or REALLY stuck. I have seen stuff THAT stuck.