- Nov 10, 2019
- 52,649
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- #21
Great vid!
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Aluminum is a soft metal that adheres to steel screws and bolts.I think the problem is the s.t. screws were 3/8ths steel in an aluminum trailer that has been subjected to road salt for a quarter century. I suspect electrolysis corrosion seized the screws and they just weren't letting go.
Same thing when taping holes in aluminum. Easy to bind up and break the tap off if you don't go slow and use the correct taping oil made for aluminum. ...![]()
Aluminum is a soft metal that adheres to steel screws and bolts.I think the problem is the s.t. screws were 3/8ths steel in an aluminum trailer that has been subjected to road salt for a quarter century. I suspect electrolysis corrosion seized the screws and they just weren't letting go.
Same thing when taping holes in aluminum. Easy to bind up and break the tap off if you don't go slow and use the correct taping oil made for aluminum. ...![]()
The proper tap for aluminum is the key.
Spiral machine taps are the way to go.
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Thanks. I'm a big fan of penetrating oil. This Deep Creep is the best I've found so far that I can buy locally. Started spraying these three days ago. I'll definitely give that Silikroil a try.I worked my whole life in heavy industry and the very best penetrating oil I found for loosing stuck bolts and rust frozen metal parts is from a company called Kano which sells Silikroil penetrating oil.
Silikroil has silicone in it and penetrates down to one millionth of an inch.
There has been soo many times I couldn't break a part loose or free a stuck bolt and just sprayed it with Silikroil, took a 15 minute break, came back and the part or bolt easily broke free.
It's not sold in stores. But you can buy direct from the company and Amazon also sells cans of it. ...![]()
Need some truth in advertising...Extractors for the most part are useless.
If I had to guess I'd say the success rate would be in the low end of 10%
Need some truth in advertising...Extractors for the most part are useless.
If I had to guess I'd say the success rate would be in the low end of 10%
"Maybe extractors...but probably not."
Available at a store near you. Limited taillight warrantee (when your taillights disappear around the corner...so does the warrantee).
No returns.
"IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
Be sure to use an anti-sieze on the threads when you put the bolts back. After that it shouldn't happen again.
Over on the Corvette forum, people are always breaking bolts off.
What is the shrink of those parallel offsets with 3 and a 1/2 inch center spacing.........."IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
Fortunately, I'm an electrician.
This means that I am qualified to use other tools than just a hammer.
I have to say this: Phillip is an asshole, and his screwdriver sucks.
Ironically, this set of screw extractors, a cheap Chinese set that I ordered from Amazon, was being delivered to my home, about the same time I was on a project, fighting with a result of Phillip's dumbassery.
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The design seems to imply that you are supposed to use this end as a drill bit, to drill a hole in the screw…
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And then use this end, to extract the screw…
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I could never get the “drill bit” end to work very well. For some reason, it never made a clean hole, that the other end could grip into.
I got much better results after I gave up on using the “drill bit” end of the extractor, and started using a real drill bit for that step. With a cleaner hole, drilled by a real drill bit, these extractors work very well.
I dont think I have. I did break an extractor off today. After that there was no way I was going to try to drill though it.
The rest I just drilled out. They'd been in there holes for 26 years...steel self tapping screws in aluminum crossmembers...so I expected sheering.
As an aside, I have to say...Deep Creep penetrating spray from Seafoam did a great job. Over 2/3rds were sucessfully removed intact.
But the extractors were a huge fail...both Irwin and Warrior brand. Not a single extraction...one extactor stripped and the other broke.
Is there a technique I'm failing to grasp?
Mostly a sawzall making the end result "the painters problem""IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT WITH A HAMMER, YOU'VE GOT AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM"
Fortunately, I'm an electrician.
This means that I am qualified to use other tools than just a hammer.
Anyone that frequently has to extract broken bolts needs to buy a set of left handed drill bits. Many times, after spraying the broken bolt with penetrating oil, I've had the bolt come out while drilling the hole needed for the extractor. ...Ive gotten lucky before spinning one out with a left handed drill bit after using some penetrating oil.
Many people don't realize there are several types and sizes of Phillip's head screws. For best results you must match the correct Phillips screwdriver with the screw head. ...I have to say this: Phillip is an asshole, and his screwdriver sucks.
I been a Kroil oil fan for 30 years. I've had big industrial parts I couldn't break apart for repair due to rust with a big hammer. I just sprayed the part with Kroil, let it set for 20 minutes, and the part easily came lose.