fuzzykitten99 said:
a while back we had it looked at while it was getting an oil change and coolant flush (as long as the hood was up) and they said it should be replaced. The mechanic at the shop we take it to even showed us that it is near snapping-it's just old and getting brittle. Problem is, because of how it is rigged in the car, it costs more in labor than the actual part. And since we don't truly need the brake (though it is nicer to park on hills and not rest on the tranny with one) we'll just wait until after we pay off some debt when my daycare opens.
With Rear Disc Brakes
1. Lubricate parking brake cables at equalizer and underbody rub points. Check all cables for freedom of operation.
2. Fully release parking brake and raise vehicle.
3. Hold cable stud from turning and tighten equalizer nut until cable slack is removed and levers are against stops on caliper housing. If levers are off stops, loosen cable until levers return to stop.
4. Operate parking brake several times to check adjustment. When properly adjusted, the parking brake pedal should move 5¼" to 6¾" on all except Seville and Eldorado or 4" to 5½" on Eldorado and Seville.
With Rear Drum Brakes
1. With service brakes properly adjusted, lubricate parking brake linkage at equalizer and cable stud with heat-resistant lubricant, and check for free movement of cables.
2. Depress parking brake pedal about 1½" from full released position.
3. Raise rear wheels off floor.
4. Hold brake cable and stud from turning and tighten equalizer nut until a slight drag is felt on either wheel (going forward). After each turn of equalizer nut, check to see if either wheel begins to drag.
5. Release parking brake. No brake drag should be felt at either rear wheel. Operate several times to check adjustment. When properly adjusted, the parking brake pedal should move 5¼" to 6¾".