Picked up a metal lathe at Habitat.

[Missourian]

It seems pretty clear to me that Mo is talking about a hobby lathe.

Mostly so I can make a part to repair something instead of heading for the hardware store to rube Goldberg a jerry-rigged a fix.

 

[toobfreak]

It seems pretty clear to me that Mo is talking about a hobby lathe.

The one I posted is a hobby lathe. Just larger and fuller featured which can consistently do 0.001" work.

While bearings are definitely important, lead screw, cross slide adjustment screw, even if the ways have not been properly cared for,

All of that can be dialed in to take out play, and the ways would be fine so long as they are not battered nor allowed to rust.

BTW, those "curls" are called "chips" and most machinists prefer that they break as they can be dangerous.

Curls, chips, it depends on the material and cut. I tend to do a lot of work in 6061T6, so you get long curls, but when working with 360 brass, you get more chips. But I never found any of them dangerous.

I have still got crescent moon scars on my wrists from blue-hot chips getting between my gloves and coveralls, thats one of the drawbacks to broken chips. LOL

Must have been some pretty heavy machining far beyond any home unit or not enough coolant applied.

 

[Concerned American]

The one I posted is a hobby lathe. Just larger and fuller featured which can consistently do 0.001" work.


All of that can be dialed in to take out play, and the ways would be fine so long as they are not battered nor allowed to rust.


Curls, chips, it depends on the material and cut. I tend to do a lot of work in 6061T6, so you get long curls, but when working with 360 brass, you get more chips. But I never found any of them dangerous.


Must have been some pretty heavy machining far beyond any home unit or not enough coolant applied.

I worked in the production of 60 and 81 mm mortar bodies to begin my career. Yes, it was really heavy machining in the early stages. We also did the fine work on them using Sundstrand and Detroit lathes. The final shaping was done on the Detroits and the chips were extremely fine--almost wire. The work area was enclosed with guards because during the operation the wire/chip would often snake out and grab. I also worked a belt drive lathe similar to the one you described while machining the jaws of a tool that crimps the metal lids on 5 gallon paint cans. That sucked. Cast iron produces a powder when machined that will get into the pores of your skin. LOL, I worked there when I got married. I washed my hands a dozen times before the wedding and by the time the ceremony was over, my hands were getting dirty again from the cast bleeding back out. Its a wonder I survived that--you could taste the cast iron.

 

[toobfreak]

I worked in the production of 60 and 81 mm mortar bodies to begin my career. Yes, it was really heavy machining in the early stages. We also did the fine work on them using Sundstrand and Detroit lathes. The final shaping was done on the Detroits and the chips were extremely fine--almost wire. The work area was enclosed with guards because during the operation the wire/chip would often snake out and grab. I also worked a belt drive lathe similar to the one you described while machining the jaws of a tool that crimps the metal lids on 5 gallon paint cans. That sucked. Cast iron produces a powder when machined that will get into the pores of your skin. LOL, I worked there when I got married. I washed my hands a dozen times before the wedding and by the time the ceremony was over, my hands were getting dirty again from the cast bleeding back out. Its a wonder I survived that--you could taste the cast iron.

Yeah, cast iron is a very crappy messy metal to have to machine. I forget what they use to machine that with, I think it was either kerosene or animal lard (at least back way, way long time ago), but it sounds like you turned it dry.

 

[Concerned American]

Yeah, cast iron is a very crappy messy metal to have to machine. I forget what they use to machine that with, I think it was either kerosene or animal lard (at least back way, way long time ago), but it sounds like you turned it dry.

Yup, I think kerosene would have presented a fire hazard in the shop and something as viscous as lard or any other grease would have been a mess. Soluable oil might have worked but this was not the most modern of machine shops as the belt drive lathe would attest. This thing was quite large--used for turning delivery truck drive lines mostly.

 

[toobfreak]

Yup, I think kerosene would have presented a fire hazard in the shop and something as viscous as lard or any other grease would have been a mess. Soluable oil might have worked but this was not the most modern of machine shops as the belt drive lathe would attest. This thing was quite large--used for turning delivery truck drive lines mostly.

I'd have to dig back through my books but they used lard and kerosene as lubricants for some metals! I actually invented my own fluid lubrication system for my big milling machine that sucks the coolant sprayed by two goose necks off the table and stand via three lines down into a tank then sends part of the stream back as needed to apply the pressure at the cutting head instead of the usual way of just restricting full pressure at the nozzles with little ball valves using this bypass system:

That connects to the output of the pump feeding the excess fluid back in a bypass return line to the tank only supplying the flow needed then for unrestricted spraying at the heads--- I find this way much easier on plumbing and the pump itself. Then I added a filtration system that catches chips in the return fluid stream, added a petcock to drain the tank, plus added a hood over the pump motor which holds a cooling fan with a slanted roof over it to keep any splashes from above being sucked into the motor, then finally added a float indicator made out of a test tube which gives a visual indication of the level of the fluid in the tank.

Here are the guts outside the tank:

And with the tank installed, collection manifold, and motor fan and hood in place.

 

[Concerned American]

I'd have to dig back through my books but they used lard and kerosene as lubricants for some metals! I actually invented my own fluid lubrication system for my big milling machine that sucks the coolant sprayed by two goose necks off the table and stand via three lines down into a tank then sends part of the stream back as needed to apply the pressure at the cutting head instead of the usual way of just restricting full pressure at the nozzles with little ball valves using this bypass system:

View attachment 1041582

That connects to the output of the pump feeding the excess fluid back in a bypass return line to the tank only supplying the flow needed then for unrestricted spraying at the heads--- I find this way much easier on plumbing and the pump itself. Then I added a filtration system that catches chips in the return fluid stream, added a petcock to drain the tank, plus added a hood over the pump motor which holds a cooling fan with a slanted roof over it to keep any splashes from above being sucked into the motor, then finally added a float indicator made out of a test tube which gives a visual indication of the level of the fluid in the tank.

Here are the guts outside the tank:

View attachment 1041584


And with the tank installed, collection manifold, and motor fan and hood in place.

View attachment 1041585
View attachment 1041586

Wow, that looks like it would feed a garden hose. I've never felt the need for more than a fine stream fed through maybe 1/8" tube at the tools. Something you can find at Grainger.

 

[toobfreak]

Wow, that looks like it would feed a garden hose. I've never felt the need for more than a fine stream fed through maybe 1/8" tube at the tools. Something you can find at Grainger.

Yeah, it definitely provides all the flow I need. Enough to move the pile of chips out of the cutting area. It sucks fluid off both ends of the cutting table from the t-slots plus from the stand where splashes collect then sucks it all down to the tank and pump below.

 

[para bellum]

Been on my TEOTWAWKI list for a while, but I'm not sure I can repair the overhead milling chuck. It is currently locked up.

The metal lathe and auto-knife does work.

They were asking a hundred, but today was ½ off.

View attachment 1041269

Mini Metal Drilling Lathe Machine 110V 180W Milling Machine CT125 Multi-Function Micro DIY Drilling and Milling Lathe Machine Power Milling Machines w/Three-jaw Chuck For Workshops Worktable Amazon.com

That's what we call an "LSO".

Lathe shaped object.

These are metal lathes...

 

[Concerned American]

That's what we call an "LSO".

Lathe shaped object.

These are metal lathes...

View attachment 1041655

I learned on a pair just like those--set identically too. What a coincidence.

 

[para bellum]

I learned on a pair just like those--set identically too. What a coincidence.

The Colchester was my baby. The first lathe I ever ran was a 1300 just like the one in the back.

Always angle them like that so that if something flies out of a chuck it doesn't hit the guy standing in front of the other machine...

This was the other side of the shop, mills and a barfeed chucker.

 

[westwall]

Yeah, another chinese brand designed to compete with the far more expensive american lines like Bridgeport.
My first lathe actually had the motor on the wall, fed by wide leather belts that fed the power down to the table, had curved cast metal feet, and the pulley bearing had an oil feed tray for lubrication you kept filled with oil.

I still have my first real lathe, an old Clausing 1300. I had to rebuild it about 10 years ago. Fortunately they still had all the parts I needed. Especially the tailstock, which was worn so bad I decided to replace it completely.

 

[Concerned American]

The Colchester was my baby. The first lathe I ever ran was a 1300 just like the one in the back.

Always angle them like that so that if something flies out of a chuck it doesn't hit the guy standing in front of the other machine...

This was the other side of the shop, mills and a barfeed chucker.

View attachment 1041937

I preferred that machine as well. Simple, to the point.

 

[toobfreak]

I still have my first real lathe, an old Clausing 1300. I had to rebuild it about 10 years ago. Fortunately they still had all the parts I needed. Especially the tailstock, which was worn so bad I decided to replace it completely.

That was an ideal size for out back in the garage or home machine shop. You could do most any work you might ever need on them.

 

[westwall]

That was an ideal size for out back in the garage or home machine shop. You could do most any work you might ever need on them.

Yeah, I have been using mine for 45 years now.

 

[toobfreak]

Yeah, I have been using mine for 45 years now.

American machinery of the past was over-engineered to last essentially forever and to be serviceable.
Much of the crap made today is largely built with a limited lifetime to wear out after a predetermined amount of use and then to be thrown away as junk.

 

[westwall]

American machinery of the past was over-engineered to last essentially forever and to be serviceable.
Much of the crap made today is largely built with a limited lifetime to wear out after a predetermined amount of use and then to be thrown away as junk.

Yup. My 2hp Bridgeport mill still does a fine job too. As you say, they were built to last. A friend of mine was looking to buy a new mill but I was able to convince him to get an older Bridgeport for just that reason.

He loves it!

 

[justoffal]

Damn, that is just a toy, it is only 20 inches end to end! I bet you only have 8-10" between centers! No power or room for serious work.
I would much more recommend a Smithy, it is the best made foreign built mill/drill/lathe on the market and has 40" between centers, is accurate, has quick change, standard R8 spindle, half-nut threading, power feed and much more, and can even be upgraded to CAD.

Granite XT 1324 110V Lathe Mill Combo

Smithy Lathe Mill Combo America’s Best Benchtop Machine Shop Guaranteed to Pay its Own Way - From Production to Home Shop - America's #1 Lathe Mill Combo Machine GRANITE: Quality, Precision, and Reliability Built-In Premium Bench Top Machine Tool - America's #1 - for over 25 years PRECISION...

smithy.com

How much?

 

[justoffal]

Yup. My 2hp Bridgeport mill still does a fine job too. As you say, they were built to last. A friend of mine was looking to buy a new mill but I was able to convince him to get an older Bridgeport for just that reason.

He loves it!

I love Bridgeport..... Everything they make is built like freaking fort Knox! Right down to the fine adjustment knobs and bearings.

 

[toobfreak]

Yup. My 2hp Bridgeport mill still does a fine job too. As you say, they were built to last. A friend of mine was looking to buy a new mill but I was able to convince him to get an older Bridgeport for just that reason. He loves it!

Frankly, I always had more need for a milling machine anyway--- needs for turning stock in a lathe was much less often.
And with a rotary table, dividing engine and a few other things, you can do a lot of circular and radiused work on a mill anyway.