Picked up a metal lathe at Habitat.

Missourian

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Been on my TEOTWAWKI list for a while, but I'm not sure I can repair the overhead milling chuck. It is currently locked up.

The metal lathe and auto-knife does work.

They were asking a hundred, but today was ½ off.

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Mini Metal Drilling Lathe Machine 110V 180W Milling Machine CT125 Multi-Function Micro DIY Drilling and Milling Lathe Machine Power Milling Machines w/Three-jaw Chuck For Workshops Worktable Amazon.com
 
Been on my TEOTWAWKI list for a while, but I'm not sure I can repair the overhead milling chuck. It is currently locked up.

The metal lathe and auto-knife does work.

They were asking a hundred, but today was ½ off.

View attachment 1041269

Mini Metal Drilling Lathe Machine 110V 180W Milling Machine CT125 Multi-Function Micro DIY Drilling and Milling Lathe Machine Power Milling Machines w/Three-jaw Chuck For Workshops Worktable Amazon.com
You gonna run that @ your house?\
 
Been on my TEOTWAWKI list for a while, but I'm not sure I can repair the overhead milling chuck. It is currently locked up.

The metal lathe and auto-knife does work.

They were asking a hundred, but today was ½ off.

View attachment 1041269

Mini Metal Drilling Lathe Machine 110V 180W Milling Machine CT125 Multi-Function Micro DIY Drilling and Milling Lathe Machine Power Milling Machines w/Three-jaw Chuck For Workshops Worktable Amazon.com

Damn, that is just a toy, it is only 20 inches end to end! I bet you only have 8-10" between centers! No power or room for serious work.
I would much more recommend a Smithy, it is the best made foreign built mill/drill/lathe on the market and has 40" between centers, is accurate, has quick change, standard R8 spindle, half-nut threading, power feed and much more, and can even be upgraded to CAD.

 
Idk, uncle had a lathe that would curl thick steel coils from whatever you put to it.
It wasn't 110v. Mighta been 440v tbh.
I have punched holes in 2" thick solid steel.
We fabricated a frame machine.
 
Congratulations. For 50 bucks I would have taken it home too.

Yeah, well, the thing is made with the cheapest bearings, not made for servicing, and that is what is shot in the thing. It is a throwaway and my guess is that it will be near impossible to find replacement parts nor fix it.
 
Idk, uncle had a lathe that would curl thick steel coils from whatever you put to it.
It wasn't 110v. Mighta been 440v tbh.

Pro machines are three phase, but you can get a pretty nice home machine to run off single phase 110V, even better if you run it off 220. Every house has that.
 
Pro machines are three phase, but you can get a pretty nice home machine to run off single phase 110V, even better if you run it off 220. Every house has that.
I'm pretty sure it was pro. As a kid, I swept up coils from that thing.
He taught me how to balance an engine. If it's right, you can get more rpm.
A good chunk of what I know about working on motorcycles came from that man.
For an older guy, he sure knew about the new technology of 4v/cyl hydraulic lifters with shim systems.
Some came from a black guy I'll call "Cooter" here.
Cuz that's not that far off. :auiqs.jpg:
 
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Been on my TEOTWAWKI list for a while, but I'm not sure I can repair the overhead milling chuck. It is currently locked up.

The metal lathe and auto-knife does work.

They were asking a hundred, but today was ½ off.

View attachment 1041269

Mini Metal Drilling Lathe Machine 110V 180W Milling Machine CT125 Multi-Function Micro DIY Drilling and Milling Lathe Machine Power Milling Machines w/Three-jaw Chuck For Workshops Worktable Amazon.com
Nice for small jobs. Can't beat that price. You can't get a decent hand drill for $100 bucks anymore, fifty bucks is a steal for just the lathe portion.
 
Damn, that is just a toy, it is only 20 inches end to end! I bet you only have 8-10" between centers! No power or room for serious work.
I would much more recommend a Smithy, it is the best made foreign built mill/drill/lathe on the market and has 40" between centers, is accurate, has quick change, standard R8 spindle, half-nut threading, power feed and much more, and can even be upgraded to CAD.

That's a wee bit too much machine for me...but thanks.
 
Damn, that is just a toy, it is only 20 inches end to end! I bet you only have 8-10" between centers! No power or room for serious work.
I would much more recommend a Smithy, it is the best made foreign built mill/drill/lathe on the market and has 40" between centers, is accurate, has quick change, standard R8 spindle, half-nut threading, power feed and much more, and can even be upgraded to CAD.

Jet makes a decent hobby, belt drive machine for $3500.
 
I'm pretty sure it was pro. As a kid, I swept up coils from that thing.
People usually call them curls. The better the machine the smoother, bigger curl you can take out of your work. That is the test of good bearings. The bearings are everything.

He taught me how to balance an engine. If it's right, you can get more rpm.
Yes, the key is the right depth cut with the right cutting speed. Of course, material, cutting tool and lubricant also play a part. It is a science. When you know how to get it just right, it is a thing of beauty.

A good chunk of what I know about working on motorcycles came from that man.
For an older guy, he sure knew about the new technology of 4v/cyl hydraulic lifters with shim systems.
Anytime you can find an old guy who knows his stuff (machining, welding or anything really) and is willing to teach, hang onto him like gold.
 
That's a wee bit too much machine for me...but thanks.

Well, if you are only working with very small parts up to about 1/100th inch tolerance, then a bench model like yours is probably fine. I would call that a jeweler's lathe. With good bearings and patience, you might even coax 1/500th inch. Thing will be whether the thing is serviceable and you can find the right parts. Sounds like some of the bearings have broken pins (or maybe they are even sleeve).
 
Jet makes a decent hobby, belt drive machine for $3500.

Yeah, another chinese brand designed to compete with the far more expensive american lines like Bridgeport.
My first lathe actually had the motor on the wall, fed by wide leather belts that fed the power down to the table, had curved cast metal feet, and the pulley bearing had an oil feed tray for lubrication you kept filled with oil.
 
Yeah, another chinese brand designed to compete with the far more expensive american lines like Bridgeport.
My first lathe actually had the motor on the wall, fed by wide leather belts that fed the power down to the table, had curved cast metal feet, and the pulley bearing had an oil feed tray for lubrication you kept filled with oil.
It seems pretty clear to me that Mo is talking about a hobby lathe. Of course, I would be looking for tolerances much closer than .010 with a Bridgeport or even an antique South Bend. A professional mill or lathe is a precision piece of machinery. Many issues can affect the quality of the work. While bearings are definitely important, lead screw, cross slide adjustment screw, even if the ways have not been properly cared for, how the angle of the tool is ground if you're using HSS tools and the angle that it is mounted. Carbide tools that begin to wear can also affect the quality. turning speed and feed depth and speed are important as well. BTW, those "curls" are called "chips" and most machinists prefer that they break as they can be dangerous. I have still got crescent moon scars on my wrists from blue-hot chips getting between my gloves and coveralls, thats one of the drawbacks to broken chips. LOL
 
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