Power windows

[OldLady]

The power window in the back passenger side of my car isn't responding right. Sometimes it doesn't work at all and when it does, it is super slow.

One of regulars at the local diner owns one of the busiest garages in town, so this morning I asked who could fix it--I thought it would take a body shop or something since I know you have to pretty much take the door apart. He said his shop can do it, but he launched into the longest, most complicated explanation of what might be wrong and that it would take at least two visits to fix it and whether I should maybe buy a motor and take it back if I didn't need it, etc. That kind of shit is why I stopped going to him a few years ago.

Do you think a regular mechanic can handle it or should I look for an autobody shop that can do it without performing neurosurgery on my car?

PS if I had a choice I'd still have plain old crank windows. The chances of a power window crapping out in the open position is just too high for my druthers. I haven't seen any of those in a car in a long time, though.

 

[Gdjjr]

A "regular" mechanic can do it and so can a body shop. A "good" mechanic will fix it and neuro surgery may be required- I don't think it should take 2 visits but you may have to leave it until somebody can get to it then that somebody may have to order a part (probably a motor) and that may not be available locally.

Power windows are handy but I too prefer crank windows.

 

[evenflow1969]

The power window in the back passenger side of my car isn't responding right. Sometimes it doesn't work at all and when it does, it is super slow.

One of regulars at the local diner owns one of the busiest garages in town, so this morning I asked who could fix it--I thought it would take a body shop or something since I know you have to pretty much take the door apart. He said his shop can do it, but he launched into the longest, most complicated explanation of what might be wrong and that it would take at least two visits to fix it and whether I should maybe buy a motor and take it back if I didn't need it, etc. That kind of shit is why I stopped going to him a few years ago.

Do you think a regular mechanic can handle it or should I look for an autobody shop that can do it without performing neurosurgery on my car?

PS if I had a choice I'd still have plain old crank windows. The chances of a power window crapping out in the open position is just too high for my druthers. I haven't seen any of those in a car in a long time, though.

It is either the motor or the power going to it is shorting out. Nothing but plastic clips between mechanic and parts so ya a mechanic should do it.

 

[Manonthestreet]

Sounds like usual bs they hand my wife.....funny how it goes away when the guy shows up. If car is under warranty they always.....always lie to her

 

[mdk]

Do you have it child locked?

 

[Deplorable Yankee]

The power window in the back passenger side of my car isn't responding right. Sometimes it doesn't work at all and when it does, it is super slow.

One of regulars at the local diner owns one of the busiest garages in town, so this morning I asked who could fix it--I thought it would take a body shop or something since I know you have to pretty much take the door apart. He said his shop can do it, but he launched into the longest, most complicated explanation of what might be wrong and that it would take at least two visits to fix it and whether I should maybe buy a motor and take it back if I didn't need it, etc. That kind of shit is why I stopped going to him a few years ago.

Do you think a regular mechanic can handle it or should I look for an autobody shop that can do it without performing neurosurgery on my car?

PS if I had a choice I'd still have plain old crank windows. The chances of a power window crapping out in the open position is just too high for my druthers. I haven't seen any of those in a car in a long time, though.

I'm pretty sure most base jeeps still have hand crank windows ...
I saw the new pickup on the road ...it was ...nice not a goliath

I'm sure tin can Korean or jap cars may have some out there in the u.s. to

 

[toobfreak]

The power window in the back passenger side of my car isn't responding right. Sometimes it doesn't work at all and when it does, it is super slow.
One of regulars at the local diner owns one of the busiest garages in town, so this morning I asked who could fix it--I thought it would take a body shop or something since I know you have to pretty much take the door apart. He said his shop can do it, but he launched into the longest, most complicated explanation of what might be wrong and that it would take at least two visits to fix it and whether I should maybe buy a motor and take it back if I didn't need it, etc. That kind of shit is why I stopped going to him a few years ago.
Do you think a regular mechanic can handle it or should I look for an autobody shop that can do it without performing neurosurgery on my car?
PS if I had a choice I'd still have plain old crank windows. The chances of a power window crapping out in the open position is just too high for my druthers. I haven't seen any of those in a car in a long time, though.

If when it does intermittently work, it runs slowly, then I agree, likely the motor, but:

1. It requires some electrical diagnostic, not just replace and hope to be sure it isn't in the door switch or the wiring. Does it do the same thing both from the door and the driver's door master panel?
   
2. Anyone who is proficient at fixing cars and electrically proficient can fix this. Figure on the motor costing you between $80-$150 if you were to go out and buy it aftermarket yourself. About double that if buying factory from a dealer and/or through a garage, then + labor (read: double again).
3. Any good mechanic CAN do this -- IF -- they want to get into tearing doors apart. Fasteners are all nylon TEK fasteners and are all one use only. Some garages try to reuse them and they don't hold well and you end up with loose panels, strange noises and stuff. Body shops who do collision probably play with this stuff more often.
4. Any good repairman will be able to ascertain the problem and effect the repair in one try. No poke and hope. If your guy is talking two trips, it doesn't sound like someone I'd give the job to.

 

[OldLady]

Do you have it child locked?

Believe it or not, I did think of that. lol

 

[OldLady]

The power window in the back passenger side of my car isn't responding right. Sometimes it doesn't work at all and when it does, it is super slow.
One of regulars at the local diner owns one of the busiest garages in town, so this morning I asked who could fix it--I thought it would take a body shop or something since I know you have to pretty much take the door apart. He said his shop can do it, but he launched into the longest, most complicated explanation of what might be wrong and that it would take at least two visits to fix it and whether I should maybe buy a motor and take it back if I didn't need it, etc. That kind of shit is why I stopped going to him a few years ago.
Do you think a regular mechanic can handle it or should I look for an autobody shop that can do it without performing neurosurgery on my car?
PS if I had a choice I'd still have plain old crank windows. The chances of a power window crapping out in the open position is just too high for my druthers. I haven't seen any of those in a car in a long time, though.

If when it does intermittently work, it runs slowly, then I agree, likely the motor, but:

1. It requires some electrical diagnostic, not just replace and hope to be sure it isn't in the door switch or the wiring. Does it do the same thing both from the door and the driver's door master panel?
   
2. Anyone who is proficient at fixing cars and electrically proficient can fix this. Figure on the motor costing you between $80-$150 if you were to go out and buy it aftermarket yourself. About double that if buying factory from a dealer and/or through a garage, then + labor (read: double again).
3. Any good mechanic CAN do this -- IF -- they want to get into tearing doors apart. Fasteners are all plastic TEK fasteners and are all one use only. Some garages try to reuse them and they don't hold well and you end up with loose panels, strange noises and stuff. Body shops who do collision probably play with this stuff more often.
4. Any good repairman will be able to ascertain the problem and effect the repair in one try. No poke and hope. If your guy is talking two trips, it doesn't sound like someone I'd give the job to.

I have a suspicion that he milks two visits out of whoever he can to get that extra labor charge. Either that or he is exceptionally disorganized and forgets why customers are bringing in their cars. Maybe when he was talking about me buying a motor assembly, it was to save me some money. I have always been told NOT to take parts to a mechanic, that they don't like it. But maybe because we are "regulars" who shoot the breeze most every morning over coffee and eggs, he's trying to give me a break.

 

[there4eyeM]

The power window in the back passenger side of my car isn't responding right. Sometimes it doesn't work at all and when it does, it is super slow.
One of regulars at the local diner owns one of the busiest garages in town, so this morning I asked who could fix it--I thought it would take a body shop or something since I know you have to pretty much take the door apart. He said his shop can do it, but he launched into the longest, most complicated explanation of what might be wrong and that it would take at least two visits to fix it and whether I should maybe buy a motor and take it back if I didn't need it, etc. That kind of shit is why I stopped going to him a few years ago.
Do you think a regular mechanic can handle it or should I look for an autobody shop that can do it without performing neurosurgery on my car?
PS if I had a choice I'd still have plain old crank windows. The chances of a power window crapping out in the open position is just too high for my druthers. I haven't seen any of those in a car in a long time, though.

If when it does intermittently work, it runs slowly, then I agree, likely the motor, but:

1. It requires some electrical diagnostic, not just replace and hope to be sure it isn't in the door switch or the wiring. Does it do the same thing both from the door and the driver's door master panel?
   
2. Anyone who is proficient at fixing cars and electrically proficient can fix this. Figure on the motor costing you between $80-$150 if you were to go out and buy it aftermarket yourself. About double that if buying factory from a dealer and/or through a garage, then + labor (read: double again).
3. Any good mechanic CAN do this -- IF -- they want to get into tearing doors apart. Fasteners are all plastic TEK fasteners and are all one use only. Some garages try to reuse them and they don't hold well and you end up with loose panels, strange noises and stuff. Body shops who do collision probably play with this stuff more often.
4. Any good repairman will be able to ascertain the problem and effect the repair in one try. No poke and hope. If your guy is talking two trips, it doesn't sound like someone I'd give the job to.

I have a suspicion that he milks two visits out of whoever he can to get that extra labor charge. Either that or he is exceptionally disorganized and forgets why customers are bringing in their cars. Maybe when he was talking about me buying a motor assembly, it was to save me some money. I have always been told NOT to take parts to a mechanic, that they don't like it. But maybe because we are "regulars" who shoot the breeze most every morning over coffee and eggs, he's trying to give me a break.

It could be as simple as lack of lubrication. Otherwise, cheap replacement from a parts car (junk yard) should suffice. How old is the vehicle and how long do you plan to keep it?
(As an aside, I've always disliked that "power" windows require electrical power to close or open, something that could be dangerous.)

 

[toobfreak]

The power window in the back passenger side of my car isn't responding right. Sometimes it doesn't work at all and when it does, it is super slow.
One of regulars at the local diner owns one of the busiest garages in town, so this morning I asked who could fix it--I thought it would take a body shop or something since I know you have to pretty much take the door apart. He said his shop can do it, but he launched into the longest, most complicated explanation of what might be wrong and that it would take at least two visits to fix it and whether I should maybe buy a motor and take it back if I didn't need it, etc. That kind of shit is why I stopped going to him a few years ago.
Do you think a regular mechanic can handle it or should I look for an autobody shop that can do it without performing neurosurgery on my car?
PS if I had a choice I'd still have plain old crank windows. The chances of a power window crapping out in the open position is just too high for my druthers. I haven't seen any of those in a car in a long time, though.

If when it does intermittently work, it runs slowly, then I agree, likely the motor, but:

1. It requires some electrical diagnostic, not just replace and hope to be sure it isn't in the door switch or the wiring. Does it do the same thing both from the door and the driver's door master panel?
   
2. Anyone who is proficient at fixing cars and electrically proficient can fix this. Figure on the motor costing you between $80-$150 if you were to go out and buy it aftermarket yourself. About double that if buying factory from a dealer and/or through a garage, then + labor (read: double again).
3. Any good mechanic CAN do this -- IF -- they want to get into tearing doors apart. Fasteners are all plastic TEK fasteners and are all one use only. Some garages try to reuse them and they don't hold well and you end up with loose panels, strange noises and stuff. Body shops who do collision probably play with this stuff more often.
4. Any good repairman will be able to ascertain the problem and effect the repair in one try. No poke and hope. If your guy is talking two trips, it doesn't sound like someone I'd give the job to.

I have a suspicion that he milks two visits out of whoever he can to get that extra labor charge. Either that or he is exceptionally disorganized and forgets why customers are bringing in their cars. Maybe when he was talking about me buying a motor assembly, it was to save me some money. I have always been told NOT to take parts to a mechanic, that they don't like it. But maybe because we are "regulars" who shoot the breeze most every morning over coffee and eggs, he's trying to give me a break.

Most any good mechanic, bringing your own parts is verboten. Not only does it cut into their profits but they can't warranty a part they did not sell nor do they want to deal with a re-repair because your funky part died on them. Mechanics also don't want to tie up their bays and want to keep cars moving and out the door as they have new people coming in.

Suggesting two trips sounds like the usual poke and hope. Some parts like computer chips can often only be diagnosed as the problem by replacing them and seeing if the problem goes away. Most mechanics don't have the specialized diagnostic equipment to analyze motor windings or intermittent parts and / or just don't want to SPEND THE TIME. So they start with what they think is the most likely cause and work their way back until the problem is solved. ITMT, it runs up the bill and is one reason why it's always better if you can do your own work.

Understand that if you buy the motor yourself, you shouldn't do that until you know it IS the motor, then, having already sourced a replacement motor, price and availability, buy it from a good source. Buy it from a more reputable outlet like NAPA, don't buy some stinking part from a low life outfit like Pep Boys or some other dirt ball automotive chain.

Also realize that the warranty and expected life will likely be shorter than a factory part. Aftermarket is cheaper for a reason.

 

[OldLady]

The power window in the back passenger side of my car isn't responding right. Sometimes it doesn't work at all and when it does, it is super slow.
One of regulars at the local diner owns one of the busiest garages in town, so this morning I asked who could fix it--I thought it would take a body shop or something since I know you have to pretty much take the door apart. He said his shop can do it, but he launched into the longest, most complicated explanation of what might be wrong and that it would take at least two visits to fix it and whether I should maybe buy a motor and take it back if I didn't need it, etc. That kind of shit is why I stopped going to him a few years ago.
Do you think a regular mechanic can handle it or should I look for an autobody shop that can do it without performing neurosurgery on my car?
PS if I had a choice I'd still have plain old crank windows. The chances of a power window crapping out in the open position is just too high for my druthers. I haven't seen any of those in a car in a long time, though.

If when it does intermittently work, it runs slowly, then I agree, likely the motor, but:

1. It requires some electrical diagnostic, not just replace and hope to be sure it isn't in the door switch or the wiring. Does it do the same thing both from the door and the driver's door master panel?
   
2. Anyone who is proficient at fixing cars and electrically proficient can fix this. Figure on the motor costing you between $80-$150 if you were to go out and buy it aftermarket yourself. About double that if buying factory from a dealer and/or through a garage, then + labor (read: double again).
3. Any good mechanic CAN do this -- IF -- they want to get into tearing doors apart. Fasteners are all plastic TEK fasteners and are all one use only. Some garages try to reuse them and they don't hold well and you end up with loose panels, strange noises and stuff. Body shops who do collision probably play with this stuff more often.
4. Any good repairman will be able to ascertain the problem and effect the repair in one try. No poke and hope. If your guy is talking two trips, it doesn't sound like someone I'd give the job to.

I have a suspicion that he milks two visits out of whoever he can to get that extra labor charge. Either that or he is exceptionally disorganized and forgets why customers are bringing in their cars. Maybe when he was talking about me buying a motor assembly, it was to save me some money. I have always been told NOT to take parts to a mechanic, that they don't like it. But maybe because we are "regulars" who shoot the breeze most every morning over coffee and eggs, he's trying to give me a break.

It could be as simple as lack of lubrication. Otherwise, cheap replacement from a parts car (junk yard) should suffice. How old is the vehicle and how long do you plan to keep it?
(As an aside, I've always disliked that "power" windows require electrical power to close or open, something that could be dangerous.)

I keep hoping that it is something as simple as a rubber gasket facing the wrong way or lubrication as you say. I plan to keep it as long as it will run. However, if I have to get used to the fact that one of the back windows doesn't work, I can live with that, too, if this repair is going to end up being a huge hairy deal.

 

[there4eyeM]

The power window in the back passenger side of my car isn't responding right. Sometimes it doesn't work at all and when it does, it is super slow.
One of regulars at the local diner owns one of the busiest garages in town, so this morning I asked who could fix it--I thought it would take a body shop or something since I know you have to pretty much take the door apart. He said his shop can do it, but he launched into the longest, most complicated explanation of what might be wrong and that it would take at least two visits to fix it and whether I should maybe buy a motor and take it back if I didn't need it, etc. That kind of shit is why I stopped going to him a few years ago.
Do you think a regular mechanic can handle it or should I look for an autobody shop that can do it without performing neurosurgery on my car?
PS if I had a choice I'd still have plain old crank windows. The chances of a power window crapping out in the open position is just too high for my druthers. I haven't seen any of those in a car in a long time, though.

If when it does intermittently work, it runs slowly, then I agree, likely the motor, but:

1. It requires some electrical diagnostic, not just replace and hope to be sure it isn't in the door switch or the wiring. Does it do the same thing both from the door and the driver's door master panel?
   
2. Anyone who is proficient at fixing cars and electrically proficient can fix this. Figure on the motor costing you between $80-$150 if you were to go out and buy it aftermarket yourself. About double that if buying factory from a dealer and/or through a garage, then + labor (read: double again).
3. Any good mechanic CAN do this -- IF -- they want to get into tearing doors apart. Fasteners are all plastic TEK fasteners and are all one use only. Some garages try to reuse them and they don't hold well and you end up with loose panels, strange noises and stuff. Body shops who do collision probably play with this stuff more often.
4. Any good repairman will be able to ascertain the problem and effect the repair in one try. No poke and hope. If your guy is talking two trips, it doesn't sound like someone I'd give the job to.

I have a suspicion that he milks two visits out of whoever he can to get that extra labor charge. Either that or he is exceptionally disorganized and forgets why customers are bringing in their cars. Maybe when he was talking about me buying a motor assembly, it was to save me some money. I have always been told NOT to take parts to a mechanic, that they don't like it. But maybe because we are "regulars" who shoot the breeze most every morning over coffee and eggs, he's trying to give me a break.

It could be as simple as lack of lubrication. Otherwise, cheap replacement from a parts car (junk yard) should suffice. How old is the vehicle and how long do you plan to keep it?
(As an aside, I've always disliked that "power" windows require electrical power to close or open, something that could be dangerous.)

I keep hoping that it is something as simple as a rubber gasket facing the wrong way or lubrication as you say. I plan to keep it as long as it will run. However, if I have to get used to the fact that one of the back windows doesn't work, I can live with that, too, if this repair is going to end up being a huge hairy deal.

Having recently replaced the mechanism in my own car, I can tell you any mechanic worthy of the title can do this fairly rapidly; it isn't like fitting a 427 into a Sprite!

 

[toobfreak]

The power window in the back passenger side of my car isn't responding right. Sometimes it doesn't work at all and when it does, it is super slow.
One of regulars at the local diner owns one of the busiest garages in town, so this morning I asked who could fix it--I thought it would take a body shop or something since I know you have to pretty much take the door apart. He said his shop can do it, but he launched into the longest, most complicated explanation of what might be wrong and that it would take at least two visits to fix it and whether I should maybe buy a motor and take it back if I didn't need it, etc. That kind of shit is why I stopped going to him a few years ago.
Do you think a regular mechanic can handle it or should I look for an autobody shop that can do it without performing neurosurgery on my car?
PS if I had a choice I'd still have plain old crank windows. The chances of a power window crapping out in the open position is just too high for my druthers. I haven't seen any of those in a car in a long time, though.

If when it does intermittently work, it runs slowly, then I agree, likely the motor, but:

1. It requires some electrical diagnostic, not just replace and hope to be sure it isn't in the door switch or the wiring. Does it do the same thing both from the door and the driver's door master panel?
   
2. Anyone who is proficient at fixing cars and electrically proficient can fix this. Figure on the motor costing you between $80-$150 if you were to go out and buy it aftermarket yourself. About double that if buying factory from a dealer and/or through a garage, then + labor (read: double again).
3. Any good mechanic CAN do this -- IF -- they want to get into tearing doors apart. Fasteners are all plastic TEK fasteners and are all one use only. Some garages try to reuse them and they don't hold well and you end up with loose panels, strange noises and stuff. Body shops who do collision probably play with this stuff more often.
4. Any good repairman will be able to ascertain the problem and effect the repair in one try. No poke and hope. If your guy is talking two trips, it doesn't sound like someone I'd give the job to.

I have a suspicion that he milks two visits out of whoever he can to get that extra labor charge. Either that or he is exceptionally disorganized and forgets why customers are bringing in their cars. Maybe when he was talking about me buying a motor assembly, it was to save me some money. I have always been told NOT to take parts to a mechanic, that they don't like it. But maybe because we are "regulars" who shoot the breeze most every morning over coffee and eggs, he's trying to give me a break.

It could be as simple as lack of lubrication. Otherwise, cheap replacement from a parts car (junk yard) should suffice. How old is the vehicle and how long do you plan to keep it?
(As an aside, I've always disliked that "power" windows require electrical power to close or open, something that could be dangerous.)

Yep. That's a definite possibility. But that falls under the category of motor and diagnostic. In either case, one should relube all the sliding parts while the door's apart anyway, and yes, absolutely, if you have a decent junk yard accessible to you and you have an idea what you are buying, you can save some money there and gamble the used part has a useful life left to it. Just remember, if you buy the part there and it was wrong (not defective), they may not want to take it back.

 

[Crepitus]

The power window in the back passenger side of my car isn't responding right. Sometimes it doesn't work at all and when it does, it is super slow.

One of regulars at the local diner owns one of the busiest garages in town, so this morning I asked who could fix it--I thought it would take a body shop or something since I know you have to pretty much take the door apart. He said his shop can do it, but he launched into the longest, most complicated explanation of what might be wrong and that it would take at least two visits to fix it and whether I should maybe buy a motor and take it back if I didn't need it, etc. That kind of shit is why I stopped going to him a few years ago.

Do you think a regular mechanic can handle it or should I look for an autobody shop that can do it without performing neurosurgery on my car?

PS if I had a choice I'd still have plain old crank windows. The chances of a power window crapping out in the open position is just too high for my druthers. I haven't seen any of those in a car in a long time, though.

Yes, a regular mechanic can do it. No, you shouldn't buy any parts you don't know if you need or not, and no, it should not take two visits. Busy or not this guy sounds like a hack, find a different mechanic.

 

[toobfreak]

The power window in the back passenger side of my car isn't responding right. Sometimes it doesn't work at all and when it does, it is super slow.
One of regulars at the local diner owns one of the busiest garages in town, so this morning I asked who could fix it--I thought it would take a body shop or something since I know you have to pretty much take the door apart. He said his shop can do it, but he launched into the longest, most complicated explanation of what might be wrong and that it would take at least two visits to fix it and whether I should maybe buy a motor and take it back if I didn't need it, etc. That kind of shit is why I stopped going to him a few years ago.
Do you think a regular mechanic can handle it or should I look for an autobody shop that can do it without performing neurosurgery on my car?
PS if I had a choice I'd still have plain old crank windows. The chances of a power window crapping out in the open position is just too high for my druthers. I haven't seen any of those in a car in a long time, though.

If when it does intermittently work, it runs slowly, then I agree, likely the motor, but:

1. It requires some electrical diagnostic, not just replace and hope to be sure it isn't in the door switch or the wiring. Does it do the same thing both from the door and the driver's door master panel?
   
2. Anyone who is proficient at fixing cars and electrically proficient can fix this. Figure on the motor costing you between $80-$150 if you were to go out and buy it aftermarket yourself. About double that if buying factory from a dealer and/or through a garage, then + labor (read: double again).
3. Any good mechanic CAN do this -- IF -- they want to get into tearing doors apart. Fasteners are all plastic TEK fasteners and are all one use only. Some garages try to reuse them and they don't hold well and you end up with loose panels, strange noises and stuff. Body shops who do collision probably play with this stuff more often.
4. Any good repairman will be able to ascertain the problem and effect the repair in one try. No poke and hope. If your guy is talking two trips, it doesn't sound like someone I'd give the job to.

I have a suspicion that he milks two visits out of whoever he can to get that extra labor charge. Either that or he is exceptionally disorganized and forgets why customers are bringing in their cars. Maybe when he was talking about me buying a motor assembly, it was to save me some money. I have always been told NOT to take parts to a mechanic, that they don't like it. But maybe because we are "regulars" who shoot the breeze most every morning over coffee and eggs, he's trying to give me a break.

It could be as simple as lack of lubrication. Otherwise, cheap replacement from a parts car (junk yard) should suffice. How old is the vehicle and how long do you plan to keep it?
(As an aside, I've always disliked that "power" windows require electrical power to close or open, something that could be dangerous.)

I keep hoping that it is something as simple as a rubber gasket facing the wrong way or lubrication as you say. I plan to keep it as long as it will run. However, if I have to get used to the fact that one of the back windows doesn't work, I can live with that, too, if this repair is going to end up being a huge hairy deal.

Having recently replaced the mechanism in my own car, I can tell you any mechanic worthy of the title can do this fairly rapidly; it isn't like fitting a 427 into a Sprite!

It's actually an easy job, usually the hardest part is getting the right nylon fasteners and getting all the panels back into place held tight again. Then there is the other issue: why did the motor die? Did it just go bad or was it forced to fail by an over-current condition because the glides for the window are bad, etc? If you are going to fix this, you want to be sure to fix the CAUSE of the problem, not just the offending part, so that everything works like new again and will stay working well for many years.

It's all speculation until you can:

1. Do the switch test to confirm that the motor misbehaves both from its own door and the drivers.
2. Assuming the latter, open the door, look in there and assess the problem.

 

[OldLady]

The power window in the back passenger side of my car isn't responding right. Sometimes it doesn't work at all and when it does, it is super slow.

One of regulars at the local diner owns one of the busiest garages in town, so this morning I asked who could fix it--I thought it would take a body shop or something since I know you have to pretty much take the door apart. He said his shop can do it, but he launched into the longest, most complicated explanation of what might be wrong and that it would take at least two visits to fix it and whether I should maybe buy a motor and take it back if I didn't need it, etc. That kind of shit is why I stopped going to him a few years ago.

Do you think a regular mechanic can handle it or should I look for an autobody shop that can do it without performing neurosurgery on my car?

PS if I had a choice I'd still have plain old crank windows. The chances of a power window crapping out in the open position is just too high for my druthers. I haven't seen any of those in a car in a long time, though.

Yes, a regular mechanic can do it. No, you shouldn't buy any parts you don't know if you need or not, and no, it should not take two visits. Busy or not this guy sounds like a hack, find a different mechanic.

Now that I've got an idea what's going on, I'll take it to MY mechanic. I really didn't expect to hear that any garage can fix windows.

 

[OldLady]

If when it does intermittently work, it runs slowly, then I agree, likely the motor, but:

1. It requires some electrical diagnostic, not just replace and hope to be sure it isn't in the door switch or the wiring. Does it do the same thing both from the door and the driver's door master panel?
   
2. Anyone who is proficient at fixing cars and electrically proficient can fix this. Figure on the motor costing you between $80-$150 if you were to go out and buy it aftermarket yourself. About double that if buying factory from a dealer and/or through a garage, then + labor (read: double again).
3. Any good mechanic CAN do this -- IF -- they want to get into tearing doors apart. Fasteners are all plastic TEK fasteners and are all one use only. Some garages try to reuse them and they don't hold well and you end up with loose panels, strange noises and stuff. Body shops who do collision probably play with this stuff more often.
4. Any good repairman will be able to ascertain the problem and effect the repair in one try. No poke and hope. If your guy is talking two trips, it doesn't sound like someone I'd give the job to.

I have a suspicion that he milks two visits out of whoever he can to get that extra labor charge. Either that or he is exceptionally disorganized and forgets why customers are bringing in their cars. Maybe when he was talking about me buying a motor assembly, it was to save me some money. I have always been told NOT to take parts to a mechanic, that they don't like it. But maybe because we are "regulars" who shoot the breeze most every morning over coffee and eggs, he's trying to give me a break.

It could be as simple as lack of lubrication. Otherwise, cheap replacement from a parts car (junk yard) should suffice. How old is the vehicle and how long do you plan to keep it?
(As an aside, I've always disliked that "power" windows require electrical power to close or open, something that could be dangerous.)

I keep hoping that it is something as simple as a rubber gasket facing the wrong way or lubrication as you say. I plan to keep it as long as it will run. However, if I have to get used to the fact that one of the back windows doesn't work, I can live with that, too, if this repair is going to end up being a huge hairy deal.

Having recently replaced the mechanism in my own car, I can tell you any mechanic worthy of the title can do this fairly rapidly; it isn't like fitting a 427 into a Sprite!

It's actually an easy job, usually the hardest part is getting the right nylon fasteners and getting all the panels back into place held tight again. Then there is the other issue: why did the motor die? Did it just go bad or was it forced to fail by an over-current condition because the glides for the window are bad, etc? If you are going to fix this, you want to be sure to fix the CAUSE of the problem, not just the offending part, so that everything works like new again and will stay working well for many years.

It's all speculation until you can:

1. Do the switch test to confirm that the motor misbehaves both from its own door and the drivers.
2. Assuming the latter, open the door, look in there and assess the problem.

Do the switch test to confirm that the motor misbehaves both from its own door and the drivers.
Couldn't I do that just by trying it from my seat and then trying it in back? Then I could tell the mechanic when I bring it in?

 

[toobfreak]

I have a suspicion that he milks two visits out of whoever he can to get that extra labor charge. Either that or he is exceptionally disorganized and forgets why customers are bringing in their cars. Maybe when he was talking about me buying a motor assembly, it was to save me some money. I have always been told NOT to take parts to a mechanic, that they don't like it. But maybe because we are "regulars" who shoot the breeze most every morning over coffee and eggs, he's trying to give me a break.

It could be as simple as lack of lubrication. Otherwise, cheap replacement from a parts car (junk yard) should suffice. How old is the vehicle and how long do you plan to keep it?
(As an aside, I've always disliked that "power" windows require electrical power to close or open, something that could be dangerous.)

I keep hoping that it is something as simple as a rubber gasket facing the wrong way or lubrication as you say. I plan to keep it as long as it will run. However, if I have to get used to the fact that one of the back windows doesn't work, I can live with that, too, if this repair is going to end up being a huge hairy deal.

Having recently replaced the mechanism in my own car, I can tell you any mechanic worthy of the title can do this fairly rapidly; it isn't like fitting a 427 into a Sprite!

It's actually an easy job, usually the hardest part is getting the right nylon fasteners and getting all the panels back into place held tight again. Then there is the other issue: why did the motor die? Did it just go bad or was it forced to fail by an over-current condition because the glides for the window are bad, etc? If you are going to fix this, you want to be sure to fix the CAUSE of the problem, not just the offending part, so that everything works like new again and will stay working well for many years.

It's all speculation until you can:

1. Do the switch test to confirm that the motor misbehaves both from its own door and the drivers.
2. Assuming the latter, open the door, look in there and assess the problem.

Do the switch test to confirm that the motor misbehaves both from its own door and the drivers.
Couldn't I do that just by trying it from my seat and then trying it in back? Then I could tell the mechanic when I bring it in?

Yep. If the motor works normal from the rear door but funky from the driver position, kinda hard to blame the motor. But at least if it acts the same way from either door, it makes it a much safer bet the problem is in the affected door.

Yeah, you'll shock the mechanic by showing him you already used logic and reason to partially diagnose the problem, and maybe suggest to him you aren't an easy pushover. Of course, it would be really nice if you could attach an ammeter to the battery or an inductive one, (you could also put a voltmeter across the battery and watch the terminal voltage) that you can look at the load on the electric as you operate the switch. But maybe if you wait till dark and operate the window switch and can watch the overhead roof lights for any dimming, etc., that too can tell you some things.

• If you're pushing the button and the window doesn't move or hum or anything and the lights appear unaffected, you might have a faulty / open circuit. Terminal voltage doesn't change.

• But if you push the button and the window doesn't move but you hear a hum or see the lights dim, that suggests you have a motor TRYING to work, jammed, stuck, dry, or a short somewhere. Terminal voltage should drop.

 

[OldLady]

It could be as simple as lack of lubrication. Otherwise, cheap replacement from a parts car (junk yard) should suffice. How old is the vehicle and how long do you plan to keep it?
(As an aside, I've always disliked that "power" windows require electrical power to close or open, something that could be dangerous.)

I keep hoping that it is something as simple as a rubber gasket facing the wrong way or lubrication as you say. I plan to keep it as long as it will run. However, if I have to get used to the fact that one of the back windows doesn't work, I can live with that, too, if this repair is going to end up being a huge hairy deal.

Having recently replaced the mechanism in my own car, I can tell you any mechanic worthy of the title can do this fairly rapidly; it isn't like fitting a 427 into a Sprite!

It's actually an easy job, usually the hardest part is getting the right nylon fasteners and getting all the panels back into place held tight again. Then there is the other issue: why did the motor die? Did it just go bad or was it forced to fail by an over-current condition because the glides for the window are bad, etc? If you are going to fix this, you want to be sure to fix the CAUSE of the problem, not just the offending part, so that everything works like new again and will stay working well for many years.

It's all speculation until you can:

1. Do the switch test to confirm that the motor misbehaves both from its own door and the drivers.
2. Assuming the latter, open the door, look in there and assess the problem.

Do the switch test to confirm that the motor misbehaves both from its own door and the drivers.
Couldn't I do that just by trying it from my seat and then trying it in back? Then I could tell the mechanic when I bring it in?

Yep. If the motor works normal from the rear door but funky from the driver position, kinda hard to blame the motor. But at least if it acts the same way from either door, it makes it a much safer bet the problem is in the affected door.

Yeah, you'll shock the mechanic by showing him you already used logic and reason to partially diagnose the problem, and maybe suggest to him you aren't an easy pushover. Of course, it would be really nice if you could attach an ammeter to the battery or an inductive one, (you could also put a voltmeter across the battery and watch the terminal voltage) that you can look at the load on the electric as you operate the switch. But maybe if you wait till dark and operate the window switch and can watch the overhead roof lights for any dimming, etc., that too can tell you some things.

• If you're pushing the button and the window doesn't move or hum or anything and the lights appear unaffected, you might have a faulty / open circuit. Terminal voltage doesn't change.

• But if you push the button and the window doesn't move but you hear a hum or see the lights dim, that suggests you have a motor TRYING to work, jammed, stuck, dry, or a short somewhere. Terminal voltage should drop.

if you wait till dark and operate the window switch and can watch the overhead roof lights for any dimming, etc., that too can tell you some things.
I'll do it. Thanks, Toob!