This morning, I think I failed to put together a single square, because I was still increasing the stacks of squares to do a couple of charity quilts. In the meantime, I noticed my red and white windmill log cabin quilt still only had its first border, I'd stacked it to "do later" so I found this truly median red-and-white checkered stuff I'd bought ONLY because it was on sale for half off. On the way home, I thought now, why did I buy that stupid fabric.
Doh! the fabric was perfect, and I was able to match it at the corners (with a little stretch to the weft, that is. Sometimes "square" checks look square, but when you turn them 90 degrees, the truth is the horizontal measurement is not the same as the vertical measurement. On a weave, I would expect it, because warp and weft threads have a tendency to never be a perfect square when 60 warp threads and 60 weft threads combine to make a rectangle. lol.
The very best weavers (I miss Dan River!) know this and compensate percentage wise to turn out perfectly square gingham checks.
THIS WAS A PRINT CHECK - NO EXCUSES!!!! They flat out made the same kind of rectangle you would expect to find on a tall check where oblivious weavers crank out flat squares or too tall squares, depending on their bent with an "it's only a job" excuse type. Some art prefers a modicum of math skills. I'm done caterwauling this crazy-maker.
Anyway, I did something I've actually taught others never to do--stretched a weft to match a warp. lol Well, the squares were only 3/4 of an inch by 13/16ths of an inch, but in 5 inches, that's several differing rows, and without stretching it would have been over a quarter of an inch off to matching on the other side of the 5". The kicker is, it did not gather, because the cotton fabric was of good enough quality to behave anyway. I actually have quilts made back in the 20s and 30s with gathered squares. Some ladies didn't know how to make squares of different sizes match, so they just gathered the long sides, and taught others to do so as well. And that produced what can only be kiddiingly called plisse quilts.
Now, we have precision rotary cutting blades, special mats with gridded squares marked to 1/8 of an inch. Some of them actually are precise, and others have the same problem the gingham weavers on steroids have. I kid you not. Go through the house. Gather up all your rulers and anything that has one-inch markings. I'll bet you a dime to a doughnut you will find some of them measure each other, and some of them well, have, ahem, an anomaly or two of space....
That's why it's best to buy one kind of rulers, and one kind of mat. Since a good mat is 4 times the price of a good ruler, take your ruler with you on mat-buying day. Make sure all 24 inches on the cutting ruler are precise matches at each point (look at all 24 inch demarcations). If all 24 match, your mat and ruler coordination have passed becki's bs test and should serve you well, once you learn to control the ruler or purchase a ruler with a non-slip grid or etched-in slip guard circles on it.
After you cut out squares, you need to measure a few of them at random to see if their size agrees with the ruler you are using. You just can't make amends for a square that is 1/64th of an inch off. If you have 30 pieces average across the quilt, you have 32 junctures that are hustling error zones, especially if you aren't minding your warp-weft stretch attitudes. The weft is the term given to the stretchier width of the material, and the warp by the same token is the firmer, sterner length, which runs parallel to the selvage of the fabric. You can eliminate the problem entirely if you spray starch the material so that the stretch tendency of the weft sewn against a warp side takes a hike.
Oh, yeah, and if you wisely cut off the selvage to wash and dry it first, and you can't figure out the warp and the weft (some are harder to determine than others, oddly), hold one width with a hand on each side of the width, about 6 inches apart. Relax the fabric by pushing your hands an inch or two in toward each other, then jerk the fabric to make a sound. It will make a little sound. Remember the pitch. then go to the perpendicular grain (which is 90 degrees and shows straight threads also). Do the same trick and listen for the sound when it stretches to its max. One pitch will be just a little higher, and its perpendicular sound will be just a little bit lower (and vice-versa). The high pitch sound is the tell-tale of the warp. The lower pitch sound is the tell-tale of the weft and will stretch more than the warp.
Sheeze. I'm Seinfed today, and this is a story--strike that--soliloquy about absolutely nothing anyone would care to know, except a quilter tearing her hair out, trying to make the squares match, but they refuse and look like naughty children act.
Oh, yeah, when I finished the red and white quilt top, I noticed the windmills looked a lot more like broken dishes (Bing windmill quilt square. Bing broken dishes quilt square. Then you'll know what I'm saying)
It didn't matter. I was grinning like a Cheshire Cat when I cribbed those little squares to matched corners AND I finished the bloody top. I was having MY Kodak moment!
Here's the fabric I have a new respect for. I'm sorry, I don't know how to do photography, or I'd show the quilt, but I can use the scanner to show the fabric came out reasonably okay when it was sewn together (with gentle tugging)