Bicycle gearing

DGS49

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I'm trying to avoid re-inventing the wheel, and wondering if what I'm looking for is common knowledge among serious bikers

On a typical mountain bike you have three front sprockets (which I would call "primary" sprockets) and 7 or 8 rear sprockets. As a result, you can remain in the "high" primary and have seven gears to play with, which is fine on level roadways.

If you shift to the middle Primary sprocket, you have seven more gears, and if you shift to the smallest Primary sprocket, there are seven gears available there.

But obviously, when talking about overall gear ratios, there is overlap. For example, 7th gear in the small Primary sprocket might be the same gear ratio as 3rd gear on the middle sprocket, or even first (lowest) gear on the large Primary sprocket.

When I'm using my gear, I just fly by the seat of my pants. If I am starting up a hill I usually shift to the middle Primary and a middle rear gear, then downshift or upshift as necessary.

Is there a way you are "supposed" to use the gears? Is there a pattern to it? Does 7th on the small one equal 4th on the middle one and first gear on the big one?

Inquiring minds want to know.
 
I'm trying to avoid re-inventing the wheel, and wondering if what I'm looking for is common knowledge among serious bikers

On a typical mountain bike you have three front sprockets (which I would call "primary" sprockets) and 7 or 8 rear sprockets. As a result, you can remain in the "high" primary and have seven gears to play with, which is fine on level roadways.

If you shift to the middle Primary sprocket, you have seven more gears, and if you shift to the smallest Primary sprocket, there are seven gears available there.

But obviously, when talking about overall gear ratios, there is overlap. For example, 7th gear in the small Primary sprocket might be the same gear ratio as 3rd gear on the middle sprocket, or even first (lowest) gear on the large Primary sprocket.

When I'm using my gear, I just fly by the seat of my pants. If I am starting up a hill I usually shift to the middle Primary and a middle rear gear, then downshift or upshift as necessary.

Is there a way you are "supposed" to use the gears? Is there a pattern to it? Does 7th on the small one equal 4th on the middle one and first gear on the big one?

Inquiring minds want to know.

The front is your chainring and the rear is your cassette. I have a 24 speed pro Trek MB and it would not make sense to duplicate gear speeds between ranges. But all you need to do is count the teeth on your chainrings, then count the teeth on your cassette. By dividing the latter into the former, you can get your pedal ratios and see if you have any duplication. They also offer calculators for bike ratios on the internet.

 
I'm trying to avoid re-inventing the wheel, and wondering if what I'm looking for is common knowledge among serious bikers

On a typical mountain bike you have three front sprockets (which I would call "primary" sprockets) and 7 or 8 rear sprockets. As a result, you can remain in the "high" primary and have seven gears to play with, which is fine on level roadways.

If you shift to the middle Primary sprocket, you have seven more gears, and if you shift to the smallest Primary sprocket, there are seven gears available there.

But obviously, when talking about overall gear ratios, there is overlap. For example, 7th gear in the small Primary sprocket might be the same gear ratio as 3rd gear on the middle sprocket, or even first (lowest) gear on the large Primary sprocket.

When I'm using my gear, I just fly by the seat of my pants. If I am starting up a hill I usually shift to the middle Primary and a middle rear gear, then downshift or upshift as necessary.

Is there a way you are "supposed" to use the gears? Is there a pattern to it? Does 7th on the small one equal 4th on the middle one and first gear on the big one?

Inquiring minds want to know.
unless youre a racer the detailed shifting isnt an issue,,

when I go up a steep hill I always drop to the lowest in both rails and work my way back up,,
going up long inclines I run in the middle on the front and shift the rears,,

and long flats or downhill kick up to the high gear on front and work it from there,,


the longer you ride the stronger you get and you will start to notice youre using higher gears,,
 
LOL.....As a kid I worked around my hilly town on a stripped-down 60s era 26" Schwinn Panther 2-speed (kick-back) with a big-ass front basket and two saddle baskets filled with newspapers.....THAT is a serious bike rider.....Everything else is just recreation. ;)

OIP.8JQTrs3BCgHGd8esGxHXxwHaFC


My dad made me basket covers out of a GI pup tent half to cover the papers when it rained.....I had legs of iron! ;)
 
FWIW, I have been riding a big, fat E-bike for the past 3 years, accumulating a lot of miles and telling myself that I'm getting as good a workout on the Beast as I used to get on my "regular" bikes (I only use the motor on significant uphills). A couple weeks ago I bought a "girls" MTB at Dick's, and have accessorized it to make it comfortable for me.

I was not being honest with myself. Pulling a long hill is hard, continuous work, unlike anything I get on the E-bike.

Parenthetically, I took the Beast to a local guy who fixes E-bikes, and he regaled me with information about these cheap Chinese bikes, pointing out where they take the cheap way out, so I'm having him do some upgrades. But he was surprised that my first 3500 miles on the Beast have been trouble free.
 
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