Post your car questions here

JustTheFacts

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Dec 28, 2012
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I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.

As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.

Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.
 
Thanks I will keep that in mind...
When I have some more time, may have to consult you about a 2002 Taurus with an idle problem.
 
Is it possible that any cooler car exists than the 1971-1973 'boat tail' Buick Riviera?
 
I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.

As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.

Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.

Why the fuck did Ford ever change the 289 to the 302 in '68
Dumbest move ever
 
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Is it possible that any cooler car exists than the 1971-1973 'boat tail' Buick Riviera?

For flat out cool factor , I'll take a '61 Lincoln Continental convertible with suicide door

lincoln-continental.png


Even though it's not may favorite car out there, it just screams cool.
 
I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.

As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.

Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.

Why the fuck did Ford ever change the 289 to the 302 in '68
Dumbest move ever

I'm not sure why you think it's the dumbest move ever. They are essentially the same engine. The 302 has a slightly longer stroke but used the same pistons as the 289. They accomplished this by using shorter connecting rods.

This resulted in an engine which was slightly higher revving and thus more street able than the 289.

The engines are so similar in fact that in late 1967 early 1968 Ford didn't even know for sure which engines were going in which cars. Many models listed as "302" are actually 289.
 
I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.

As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.

Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.

Is there any car or truck you would tell others to avoid purchasing because their maintenance is costly or their repairs/troubles are excessive?
 
I change spark plugs and PCV valve about every 30,000 miles at my home.

Is that considered a full tune up in todays cars?

What do you drive? The fact is if you are needing to change spark plugs on anything built within the last 6 years or so every 30K miles you are either over doing your routine maintenance or you have something wrong which is fouling plugs early.

Most new engines can easily go 100K miles between plug changes if a person uses a quality brand platinum or iradium tipped spark plug.

And really normally the plugs aren't even fouled at 100K , the problem however is if you go much longer than that the coil to plug boot melts to the spark plug and then you end up needing to buy coils to replace the ones you've destroyed trying to remove them.

Yes in today's car a tune up essentially consists of spark plug change and check everything else over and replace as needed.
 
I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.

As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.

Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.

Is there any car or truck you would tell others to avoid purchasing because their maintenance is costly or their repairs/troubles are excessive?

A few yes.

I would discourage anyone from purchasing a Dodge Caliber. Not because they are any more prone to problems than other vehicles, but because they are a pain in the ass to work on and thus you are looking at higher than normal repair bills. For instance, it's a 3 hour job to change an alternator, and one MUST discharge the a/c to get to it.

I have 3 customers who own them, and they never get out of the shop for less than $400 when a repair is needed.

To me , this is unacceptable in an "economy" car.

I would also recommend avoiding anything Ford puts a Triton motor in unless one actually needs the vehicle. VERY expensive vehicle to maintain.
 
2001 jeep grande Cherokee 4.0 ,ran fine befor it sat for a few months. Battery went down,jump started it,no problem,but then the security system would shut it down after 2 secs,wouldn't except any of the keys that worked fine for years. How do I fix that?
 
Chrysler 300M. I need to replace my crank/cam sensor. Would that make my cam knock?
 
2001 jeep grande Cherokee 4.0 ,ran fine befor it sat for a few months. Battery went down,jump started it,no problem,but then the security system would shut it down after 2 secs,wouldn't except any of the keys that worked fine for years. How do I fix that?

Sounds like a miscommunication problem between the SKIM module and the transponder key.

First step, disconnect the negative cable from the batter and let sit for 20 minutes.

Reconnect then insert key, and turn to on but do NOT attempt to start. Leave in the on position for 90 seconds.

It should have reset itself, and be able to start.
 
Chrysler 300M. I need to replace my crank/cam sensor. Would that make my cam knock?

My first question is why do you think you need to replace your crank and cam sensor (2 separate sensors by the way)

Second question is why do you think your cam is knocking? A knocking sound is most generally a lifter.
 

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