Post your car questions here

I'm ASE certified Master Tech , and in an effort to try to clean up the image some of you all seem to have about "mechanics" if you post a question here you will know that any answer I give you will be free of motivation to rip you off as you aren't likely to be my customer.

As today's cars are much more sophisticated than their predecessors one really needs seek expert advice before fiddling with anything or trusting their vehicle to someone who may not be qualified just to save a few dollars.

Ask anything I'll do my best to help you. Although obviously diagnostic abilities are limited without having the vehicle in front of me.

Why the fuck did Ford ever change the 289 to the 302 in '68
Dumbest move ever

I'm not sure why you think it's the dumbest move ever. They are essentially the same engine. The 302 has a slightly longer stroke but used the same pistons as the 289. They accomplished this by using shorter connecting rods.

This resulted in an engine which was slightly higher revving and thus more street able than the 289.

The engines are so similar in fact that in late 1967 early 1968 Ford didn't even know for sure which engines were going in which cars. Many models listed as "302" are actually 289.

I understand it's the same motor. But wasn't power compromised?
 
Chrysler 300M. I need to replace my crank/cam sensor. Would that make my cam knock?

My first question is why do you think you need to replace your crank and cam sensor (2 separate sensors by the way)

Second question is why do you think your cam is knocking? A knocking sound is most generally a lifter.

Thats what I thought. I saw it on some forum. I was told it was a crank/cam by a mechanic. I got to get it fixed, fast. Sometimes, when I start my car, it rides like crap. It shakes, and acts like it wont go. I will have the pedal to the floor, and it wont go anywhere past 2k rpms. After around 5 or 6 seconds, it will shoot off like a bat ou tof hell (if my foot is still on the pedal)
 
2006 Jeep Liberty Unlimited 4wd.

I think the wiring harness under the driver's seat that controls the power seat functions for both seats must have been knocked or hit loose somehow, since both seats will not respond to pushing the buttons that control them.

Where exactly is what I need to get to under the driver's seat to reconnect it? Sorry, but it's pretty cramped down there to stick my head, and I'll likely have to go by feel.
 
2006 Jeep Liberty Unlimited 4wd.

I think the wiring harness under the driver's seat that controls the power seat functions for both seats must have been knocked or hit loose somehow, since both seats will not respond to pushing the buttons that control them.

Where exactly is what I need to get to under the driver's seat to reconnect it? Sorry, but it's pretty cramped down there to stick my head, and I'll likely have to go by feel.

Pull the dildo out of your ass - you'll have more room.

Thanks
 
2006 Jeep Liberty Unlimited 4wd.

I think the wiring harness under the driver's seat that controls the power seat functions for both seats must have been knocked or hit loose somehow, since both seats will not respond to pushing the buttons that control them.

Where exactly is what I need to get to under the driver's seat to reconnect it? Sorry, but it's pretty cramped down there to stick my head, and I'll likely have to go by feel.

Pull the dildo out of your ass - you'll have more room.

Thanks

The lazy fuck could just undo a couple bolts
 
I got a question about benz brakes, that OK?

Yup, got a 2002 230SLK sitting in the shop as we speak. I'm the only tech who's ever touched it.

Alrightie then. My wife has a 2009 E350.

When coming to a stop in every car I can remember right as you come to the end of the stop you can feather off the brake so the front end does not have that little pop up at the very end.

Her dang car won't do it. I creep all the way up to the very, very end and when the car stops it pops up. It is one of those things that once you notice it annoys the heck out of you. I had it at a shop who did not know what I was talking about until I showed him. He went out and drove two or three cars of the exact same model and said they all did it. I just can't believe Benz made a car that does this.

The brake have been changed, and the rotors because you have to do both every time. No change.
 
2001 jeep grande Cherokee 4.0 ,ran fine befor it sat for a few months. Battery went down,jump started it,no problem,but then the security system would shut it down after 2 secs,wouldn't except any of the keys that worked fine for years. How do I fix that?

Sounds like a miscommunication problem between the SKIM module and the transponder key.

First step, disconnect the negative cable from the batter and let sit for 20 minutes.

Reconnect then insert key, and turn to on but do NOT attempt to start. Leave in the on position for 90 seconds.

It should have reset itself, and be able to start.

Tried that about 20 times with each key. getting frustrated.
 
Is it possible that any cooler car exists than the 1971-1973 'boat tail' Buick Riviera?

For flat out cool factor , I'll take a '61 Lincoln Continental convertible with suicide door

lincoln-continental.png


Even though it's not may favorite car out there, it just screams cool.
Wow! That Lincoln is indeed a beautiful car. But my taste runs to the 1976 Cadillac Eldorado convertible.

126878-500-0.jpg


A friend had one of these (red & white) and it rode like a sailboat on a calm lake. What a gorgeous car it was. I don't know why Cadillac doesn't make them anymore.

I presently own a 1995 Cadillac Sedan DeVille which is in 95% showroom condition with only 76k miles. I won it in a raffle in '94 and used it very rarely until recently. It's beautiful, runs like new, and everything works. My problem is the Kelley Blue Book says it's worth only $2,800 but it's worth $20k to me. I love the car but I'm afraid to put it on the road because if anything happens to it I won't find anything like it for less than $20k.
 
I change spark plugs and PCV valve about every 30,000 miles at my home.

Is that considered a full tune up in todays cars?

What do you drive? The fact is if you are needing to change spark plugs on anything built within the last 6 years or so every 30K miles you are either over doing your routine maintenance or you have something wrong which is fouling plugs early.

Most new engines can easily go 100K miles between plug changes if a person uses a quality brand platinum or iradium tipped spark plug.

And really normally the plugs aren't even fouled at 100K , the problem however is if you go much longer than that the coil to plug boot melts to the spark plug and then you end up needing to buy coils to replace the ones you've destroyed trying to remove them.

Yes in today's car a tune up essentially consists of spark plug change and check everything else over and replace as needed.
It's a 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix with a 3100 motor. The plugs always look great with no fouling on the tips.

Guess I was changing them way too soon......... :cool:
 
Why the fuck did Ford ever change the 289 to the 302 in '68
Dumbest move ever

I'm not sure why you think it's the dumbest move ever. They are essentially the same engine. The 302 has a slightly longer stroke but used the same pistons as the 289. They accomplished this by using shorter connecting rods.

This resulted in an engine which was slightly higher revving and thus more street able than the 289.

The engines are so similar in fact that in late 1967 early 1968 Ford didn't even know for sure which engines were going in which cars. Many models listed as "302" are actually 289.

I understand it's the same motor. But wasn't power compromised?

no , actually power went up considerably. the 1967 289 with a 4 barrel carburetor had 210 HP (except of course for the K code 271 HP HiPo model) the 1968 302 had 251 HP
 
Chrysler 300M. I need to replace my crank/cam sensor. Would that make my cam knock?

My first question is why do you think you need to replace your crank and cam sensor (2 separate sensors by the way)

Second question is why do you think your cam is knocking? A knocking sound is most generally a lifter.

Thats what I thought. I saw it on some forum. I was told it was a crank/cam by a mechanic. I got to get it fixed, fast. Sometimes, when I start my car, it rides like crap. It shakes, and acts like it wont go. I will have the pedal to the floor, and it wont go anywhere past 2k rpms. After around 5 or 6 seconds, it will shoot off like a bat ou tof hell (if my foot is still on the pedal)

year model ? engine? Have you had anyone do an engine scan?
 
My first question is why do you think you need to replace your crank and cam sensor (2 separate sensors by the way)

Second question is why do you think your cam is knocking? A knocking sound is most generally a lifter.

Thats what I thought. I saw it on some forum. I was told it was a crank/cam by a mechanic. I got to get it fixed, fast. Sometimes, when I start my car, it rides like crap. It shakes, and acts like it wont go. I will have the pedal to the floor, and it wont go anywhere past 2k rpms. After around 5 or 6 seconds, it will shoot off like a bat ou tof hell (if my foot is still on the pedal)

year model ? engine? Have you had anyone do an engine scan?

2002 3.5L v-6 I think. They hooked it up to a computer when they told me about the sensors
 
Does it harm a car to keep the engine on while fueling?

Sent from my DROID RAZR
 
2006 Jeep Liberty Unlimited 4wd.

I think the wiring harness under the driver's seat that controls the power seat functions for both seats must have been knocked or hit loose somehow, since both seats will not respond to pushing the buttons that control them.

Where exactly is what I need to get to under the driver's seat to reconnect it? Sorry, but it's pretty cramped down there to stick my head, and I'll likely have to go by feel.

Unlikely. I would start by checking to see if you have power to the seats. The most likely cause is you've blown a fuse.
 
I got a question about benz brakes, that OK?

Yup, got a 2002 230SLK sitting in the shop as we speak. I'm the only tech who's ever touched it.

Alrightie then. My wife has a 2009 E350.

When coming to a stop in every car I can remember right as you come to the end of the stop you can feather off the brake so the front end does not have that little pop up at the very end.

Her dang car won't do it. I creep all the way up to the very, very end and when the car stops it pops up. It is one of those things that once you notice it annoys the heck out of you. I had it at a shop who did not know what I was talking about until I showed him. He went out and drove two or three cars of the exact same model and said they all did it. I just can't believe Benz made a car that does this.

The brake have been changed, and the rotors because you have to do both every time. No change.

I don't think there is anything wrong with your car. I think the issue is the electric assist brakes just behave differently than the hydraulic/vacuum brakes that you are probably used to. I think the dealer was being honest with you.
 
2001 jeep grande Cherokee 4.0 ,ran fine befor it sat for a few months. Battery went down,jump started it,no problem,but then the security system would shut it down after 2 secs,wouldn't except any of the keys that worked fine for years. How do I fix that?

Sounds like a miscommunication problem between the SKIM module and the transponder key.

First step, disconnect the negative cable from the batter and let sit for 20 minutes.

Reconnect then insert key, and turn to on but do NOT attempt to start. Leave in the on position for 90 seconds.

It should have reset itself, and be able to start.

Tried that about 20 times with each key. getting frustrated.

I would try getting a new key from the dealer.
 
Does it harm a car to keep the engine on while fueling?

Sent from my DROID RAZR

no, of course not. well I mean, it could hurt the car if gas fumes caused an explosion, that probably wouldn't be too good for the car lol
 
Yup, got a 2002 230SLK sitting in the shop as we speak. I'm the only tech who's ever touched it.

Alrightie then. My wife has a 2009 E350.

When coming to a stop in every car I can remember right as you come to the end of the stop you can feather off the brake so the front end does not have that little pop up at the very end.

Her dang car won't do it. I creep all the way up to the very, very end and when the car stops it pops up. It is one of those things that once you notice it annoys the heck out of you. I had it at a shop who did not know what I was talking about until I showed him. He went out and drove two or three cars of the exact same model and said they all did it. I just can't believe Benz made a car that does this.

The brake have been changed, and the rotors because you have to do both every time. No change.

I don't think there is anything wrong with your car. I think the issue is the electric assist brakes just behave differently than the hydraulic/vacuum brakes that you are probably used to. I think the dealer was being honest with you.

I think that is probably right. The thing has enormous disks on it.

One reason I prefer standards to automatics. More control over what does what when. I guess that would not help with the brake issue though. I could aways just yank back on handbrake a few feet from the line. :D (I know, it doesn't actually have a 'hand' brake.)

One sad note. My wife traded in my S2000, number 2741 off the line, for her car. :frown: What that thing could do should be illegal. :eusa_whistle:
 
Does it harm a car to keep the engine on while fueling?

Sent from my DROID RAZR

no, of course not. well I mean, it could hurt the car if gas fumes caused an explosion, that probably wouldn't be too good for the car lol

What's the deal with a pressurized tank, if that is what it is called. I left my gas cap a little loose on the S2000 and the engine light came on after a while.
 
What is the resistance of a 7V alternator powered Ford electric choke coil vs a 12 volt one?
I have a rebuilt carb and it does not say the voltage on it but it is slow to open and the heat tube is good and so is the vacuum port for it.
Pull off adjusted properly of course.
 

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