M1 Garand Drill Rifle Project

1srelluc

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Nov 21, 2021
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Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
I picked-up this Springfield Armory M1 Garand drill rifle today.

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It came out of Fork Union Military Academy here in Virginia along with 449 others. They demilled them by cutting off the front of the bolt, plugging the barrel, and plugging the gas cylinder.

If I can drive the plastic plug out I think all I'll need is a new bolt and new gas cylinder to get it up to snuff.

One guy bought 12 of them and has already unpugged half of them and found the barrels to be like new. The one on my rifle looks new with a 1950 date, likely the year of it's Rock Island Arsenal rebuild going by the rebuild stamp.

The rifle was made in October of 1943. The stock is a WW-2 era walnut stock in nice shape.

It should be a fun project and even if it does not pan-out as a shooter I can almost triple my money on the good parts.
 
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Nice ... please share the finished outcome. Would love to see. I never pursued the .30-06 world, although this is the weapon my dad always discussed (he used one briefly in Vietnam).
 
Nice ... please share the finished outcome. Would love to see. I never pursued the .30-06 world, although this is the weapon my dad always discussed (he used one briefly in Vietnam).
I'm waiting to call the guy that got them unplugged this evening to let me know how he did it. I already have a brass rod that will work for the task but I think he heated the receiver with a heat gun but I'd rather get the info 1st hand before beating on it. ;)

If I get the barrel unplugged (and it still good) the other parts needed will run around $350.00.
 
I already have a brass rod that will work for the task but I think he heated the receiver with a heat gun but I'd rather get the info 1st hand before beating on it.
If the barrel is 4140, you won't start affecting the temper until you hit about 400 degrees F. That's still a lot harder than a gun barrel, you'll need to get over 700 F to bring it down into the mid-40's Rc. So you can't hurt it with a heat gun, but you might soften that plastic more than you want.

They probably pressed the plug in cold, you should be able to press it out cold. An even pressure will work better than beating on it- once it starts moving the natural lubricity will keep it going.

You could probably melt it out, any plastic ductile enough to press into a gun bore will have a low melting point. If it was something they cast in place, it might not melt. Some thermo-setting plastics (like bakelite) can only be melted once- after that they just turn to carbon with heat.
 
If the barrel is 4140, you won't start affecting the temper until you hit about 400 degrees F. That's still a lot harder than a gun barrel, you'll need to get over 700 F to bring it down into the mid-40's Rc. So you can't hurt it with a heat gun, but you might soften that plastic more than you want.

They probably pressed the plug in cold, you should be able to press it out cold. An even pressure will work better than beating on it- once it starts moving the natural lubricity will keep it going.

You could probably melt it out, any plastic ductile enough to press into a gun bore will have a low melting point. If it was something they cast in place, it might not melt. Some thermo-setting plastics (like bakelite) can only be melted once- after that they just turn to carbon with heat.
I got it out, heat gun and a old Swiss SS/Brass cleaning rod did the trick, it popped right out. Barrel looks new....Meh, sorta anti-climatic really.

I procured both a bolt and gas cylinder from a friend for $150.00, just waiting on a gas cylinder lock and nut I had to order to finish it up.

LOL....I had to cut the old gas cylinder nut off along with the front of the gas cylinder to get it off as the lock and nut had been welded to the gas cylinder.

I'll end-up having about $600.00 in it.
 

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