House Temperature Management

DGS49

Diamond Member
Apr 12, 2012
15,919
13,509
2,415
Pittsburgh
I live in a "new" place right now - a two story townhouse condo - and it has a new furnace, guaranteed to be totally adequate for my needs. When I awoke this morning, the outside temperature was -9F, which is near the bottom of annual temps here in Western PA. I've seen a few colder moments, but this is in the coldest range.

In the room where the thermostat sits - the Study - it is, of course, the temperature I have elected (71). As one gets further from that room the temperature is cooler. In the Great Room, on the opposite side of the structure and the outside of the building (I have an "end unit") it is 67 degrees, four degrees cooler than in the study. The upstairs bedrooms are 70 or 69, depending on where the sun sits.

I have long thought that the thermostat should be placed in the room where you spend the most time, NOT the room closest to the furnace or a central room in the house. But as things are, I must adjust the thermostat to be something ABOVE the desired temperature, in order to get my desired temperature in the Great Room. (I have several indoor thermometers to track these temperatures).

Am I giving this too much thought?

And what about temperature/cost management? Would it be wise of me to close the heat registers and close the doors to the rooms that are "never" used. There are two empty bedrooms, the Dining Room, a finished basement, and one unused bathroom. Even if I did that, the temps in those rooms would not be terribly cold, just too cold to sit there for extended periods, which never happens anyway.

Do any of you do that sort of thing to save on heating fuel?
 
And what about temperature/cost management? Would it be wise of me to close the heat registers and close the doors to the rooms that are "never" used.
I have seen a house that was similar to what you explain and we determined that the forced air duct to the cold room was furthest from the unit and the duct was not insulated. I have also been told by HVAC engineers that closing vents is counter productive to the efficient use of the system. Just observations by an amateur however.
 
Closing vents seems logical, but it presumes that the hot air that does not flow to that room will flow efficiently somewhere else, which is probably just dreaming.

My basic "problem" is that HVAC professionals place the thermostat where it is most convenient for wiring, but it should be placed in the room where the family will spend the most time. WGAS what the temperature is in the dining room that is only used two days a year?
 
I live in a "new" place right now - a two story townhouse condo - and it has a new furnace, guaranteed to be totally adequate for my needs. When I awoke this morning, the outside temperature was -9F, which is near the bottom of annual temps here in Western PA. I've seen a few colder moments, but this is in the coldest range.

In the room where the thermostat sits - the Study - it is, of course, the temperature I have elected (71). As one gets further from that room the temperature is cooler. In the Great Room, on the opposite side of the structure and the outside of the building (I have an "end unit") it is 67 degrees, four degrees cooler than in the study. The upstairs bedrooms are 70 or 69, depending on where the sun sits.

I have long thought that the thermostat should be placed in the room where you spend the most time, NOT the room closest to the furnace or a central room in the house. But as things are, I must adjust the thermostat to be something ABOVE the desired temperature, in order to get my desired temperature in the Great Room. (I have several indoor thermometers to track these temperatures).

Am I giving this too much thought?

And what about temperature/cost management? Would it be wise of me to close the heat registers and close the doors to the rooms that are "never" used. There are two empty bedrooms, the Dining Room, a finished basement, and one unused bathroom. Even if I did that, the temps in those rooms would not be terribly cold, just too cold to sit there for extended periods, which never happens anyway.

Do any of you do that sort of thing to save on heating fuel?
My house was built the year I was born, 1954 hence has no internal ductwork. I have a swamp cooler on the roof and two gas fired wall mounted heating units, not the most efficient setup for heating and cooling. The problem with duct fed systems is around 25% of all energy used it lost in the the ductwork.
For me, and potentially for you is the installation of ductless Mini-split systems. Each room has it's own wall mounted heating/cooling unit controlled independently. It is much more efficient than what each of us have however the primary drawbacks are upfront cost, possible need for a backup heating system if temps drop into the negative number range and maintenance. Maintenance means cleaning out each unit's filter at minimum once a month.

Is Ductless Heating and Cooling Right for You?
 
Furnace forced hot air or boiler. If forced hot, not much choice but to adjust ducts like wide open in cold rooms, near off or off in warm ones. If a hot water boiler they usually have zones, I have had 2-3 thermos in a home heated with boiler and baseboard radiators,,, and set your zones.
 
Closing vents seems logical, but it presumes that the hot air that does not flow to that room will flow efficiently somewhere else, which is probably just dreaming.

My basic "problem" is that HVAC professionals place the thermostat where it is most convenient for wiring, but it should be placed in the room where the family will spend the most time. WGAS what the temperature is in the dining room that is only used two days a year?
It has always been placed near the farthest return in the house in the homes where we have had central heat.
 
My house was built the year I was born, 1954 hence has no internal ductwork. I have a swamp cooler on the roof and two gas fired wall mounted heating units, not the most efficient setup for heating and cooling. The problem with duct fed systems is around 25% of all energy used it lost in the the ductwork.
For me, and potentially for you is the installation of ductless Mini-split systems. Each room has it's own wall mounted heating/cooling unit controlled independently. It is much more efficient than what each of us have however the primary drawbacks are upfront cost, possible need for a backup heating system if temps drop into the negative number range and maintenance. Maintenance means cleaning out each unit's filter at minimum once a month.

Is Ductless Heating and Cooling Right for You?
Mitsubishi makes a split system that provides both heat and cooling.
 
You takin the "mini split"? Got one besides my 5 ton heat pump, for the attic. Think it''s a Mits. Cool units.
I had a large office structure built in an unheated warehouse about eight years ago in CA. It had twelve offices (cubicles) and a library room. I believe square footage was like 2400 square feet. Three Mitsubishi units handled the cubicle portion (1500 sq. ft) and two more in the other 900. The rooms were never uncomfortable--winter or summer.
 
I had a large office structure built in an unheated warehouse about eight years ago in CA. It had twelve offices (cubicles) and a library room. I believe square footage was like 2400 square feet. Three Mitsubishi units handled the cubicle portion (1500 sq. ft) and two more in the other 900. The rooms were never uncomfortable--winter or summer.
Not much experience with mine being in an attic used for storage but I sure would like to play with it. I worked lots HVAC, interesting stuff.
 

Forum List

Back
Top