Worst Car Dealer Service Department?

DGS49

Diamond Member
Apr 12, 2012
15,810
13,309
2,415
Pittsburgh
Mick's North Hills Chrysler (etc). North suburbs of Pittsburgh.

I usually avoid the place like a snotty-nosed kid, but I have a valuable Chrysler extended warranty on my car, so if I think I might have something significant going on, or a problem that the warranty will cover I go ahead, hold my nose, and bring it in.

Two weeks ago, my car's computer erroneously sensed that the left-rear door of the car was open, while I was driving down the road. The dome lights went on, alarms pealed, and the "door open" indicator on the dash went on. I pulled over and re-closed the door, but that did nothing. I opened the door and actuated the switch on the sill and it seemed fine, but the dash was still falsely agitated.

It was the dreaded "intermittent problem." Sometimes it was fine, then for no apparent reason the alarms went off again. I couldn't use the fob to lock the doors because as soon as the problem recurred the alarm would go off.

So I made an appointment with Mick's North Hills Chrysler Service Department, and dropped off the car. "Mike." I told them in advance what the problem was, and that I wanted to renew my state inspection while there. What the hell, right? There's nothing wrong with the car anyway, so it should be painless.

I get my morning phone call from "Mike," and - surprise, surprise - they don't have the part. By the way, the "backside of your rotors are a little rusty," so they want to charge me $300 to replace the front rotors. Also, I'm (he says) losing a little coolant and a gasket ($15) needs replaced: another $300. But the good thing is, they will have to flush out the cooling system and replace my "permanent" antifreeze in the process, so...

They want $185 to replace the switch in the door. But of course they don't have the switch.

So I park the car on the day before Thanksgiving and don't use it over the weekend. When I get into my car on Monday morning the battery is almost dead, and the car won't start. It seems that the door problem has been going on for the entire 4-day weekend, and the dome light keeps going on and off. Darn. Also, the hood release isn't working properly, which is new.

I make an appointment to go back to Mick's and get the door fixed. They don't have the part, but "we'll have it tomorrow". The hood latch is fine but the cable is "defective" and they want $215 to replace the cable - which they also don't have. Another day bumming a ride with my carpool buddy. But on the way over to Mick's, I notice that the little engine icon on the dash is lit. So now I have (1) the door switch to contend with, (2) the Check Engine light, and (3) the problem with the hood release.

Rushing ahead, when I pick up the car I find that they charged me $95 to "run the codes." Parenthetically, you can buy a gadget at Pep Boys to run the codes for less than $95. The result of running the codes is that "it could be anything electrical." I ask Mike, why should I pay $95 to run the codes when all it comes up with is, "something electrical." I knew that when I came in. Also, he says my battery (one month old, from Pep Boys) is shot. They replaced a switch in the door for $185, and after my $100 deductible the warranty covered the rest. I leave Mick's and go over to Pep Boys where they confirm that my new battery is fine but could use a charge (they "had a hell of a time getting the hood open"). So should I believe the self-serving incompetents at Pep Boys or the thieves at Mick's? This is a tough one.

This morning I get up and my battery is dead. Computer thinks the back door is open. Hmm. I call Mike and tell him I'll drop the car off NOW to get it fixed. He says he can't take it until next week. When I prevail on him he agrees to "look at it" on Friday. When I implied that he FUCKED UP(!) so he should be willing to go the extra four centimeters for me, he takes great umbrage. They replaced the (NON-DEFECTIVE) switch; what more did I want? Well, I said, I thought you might DIAGNOSE THE FUCKING PROBLEM for $185 and fix it, rather than just TAKING MY WORD FOR IT and replacing a (non-defective) switch.

Jesus.

So this evening I plan to go to another Chrysler dealer from whom I have arranged to purchase the $17 cable, then drop the car off with Mike to get my car fixed. What Mike doesn't know is that I'm going out of town until Monday, so he can keep the car over the weekend. He was hoping that the threat of having to keep my car there Saturday would scare me off.

Lordy, lordy. How do these places stay in business?
 
I will mention that possibility to the service write up person when he calls. A super-intellectuated bear thinks it's the body control module (whatever that is).
 
Mick's North Hills Chrysler (etc). North suburbs of Pittsburgh.

I usually avoid the place like a snotty-nosed kid, but I have a valuable Chrysler extended warranty on my car, so if I think I might have something significant going on, or a problem that the warranty will cover I go ahead, hold my nose, and bring it in.

Two weeks ago, my car's computer erroneously sensed that the left-rear door of the car was open, while I was driving down the road. The dome lights went on, alarms pealed, and the "door open" indicator on the dash went on. I pulled over and re-closed the door, but that did nothing. I opened the door and actuated the switch on the sill and it seemed fine, but the dash was still falsely agitated.

It was the dreaded "intermittent problem." Sometimes it was fine, then for no apparent reason the alarms went off again. I couldn't use the fob to lock the doors because as soon as the problem recurred the alarm would go off.

So I made an appointment with Mick's North Hills Chrysler Service Department, and dropped off the car. "Mike." I told them in advance what the problem was, and that I wanted to renew my state inspection while there. What the hell, right? There's nothing wrong with the car anyway, so it should be painless.

I get my morning phone call from "Mike," and - surprise, surprise - they don't have the part. By the way, the "backside of your rotors are a little rusty," so they want to charge me $300 to replace the front rotors. Also, I'm (he says) losing a little coolant and a gasket ($15) needs replaced: another $300. But the good thing is, they will have to flush out the cooling system and replace my "permanent" antifreeze in the process, so...

They want $185 to replace the switch in the door. But of course they don't have the switch.

So I park the car on the day before Thanksgiving and don't use it over the weekend. When I get into my car on Monday morning the battery is almost dead, and the car won't start. It seems that the door problem has been going on for the entire 4-day weekend, and the dome light keeps going on and off. Darn. Also, the hood release isn't working properly, which is new.

I make an appointment to go back to Mick's and get the door fixed. They don't have the part, but "we'll have it tomorrow". The hood latch is fine but the cable is "defective" and they want $215 to replace the cable - which they also don't have. Another day bumming a ride with my carpool buddy. But on the way over to Mick's, I notice that the little engine icon on the dash is lit. So now I have (1) the door switch to contend with, (2) the Check Engine light, and (3) the problem with the hood release.

Rushing ahead, when I pick up the car I find that they charged me $95 to "run the codes." Parenthetically, you can buy a gadget at Pep Boys to run the codes for less than $95. The result of running the codes is that "it could be anything electrical." I ask Mike, why should I pay $95 to run the codes when all it comes up with is, "something electrical." I knew that when I came in. Also, he says my battery (one month old, from Pep Boys) is shot. They replaced a switch in the door for $185, and after my $100 deductible the warranty covered the rest. I leave Mick's and go over to Pep Boys where they confirm that my new battery is fine but could use a charge (they "had a hell of a time getting the hood open"). So should I believe the self-serving incompetents at Pep Boys or the thieves at Mick's? This is a tough one.

This morning I get up and my battery is dead. Computer thinks the back door is open. Hmm. I call Mike and tell him I'll drop the car off NOW to get it fixed. He says he can't take it until next week. When I prevail on him he agrees to "look at it" on Friday. When I implied that he FUCKED UP(!) so he should be willing to go the extra four centimeters for me, he takes great umbrage. They replaced the (NON-DEFECTIVE) switch; what more did I want? Well, I said, I thought you might DIAGNOSE THE FUCKING PROBLEM for $185 and fix it, rather than just TAKING MY WORD FOR IT and replacing a (non-defective) switch.

Jesus.

So this evening I plan to go to another Chrysler dealer from whom I have arranged to purchase the $17 cable, then drop the car off with Mike to get my car fixed. What Mike doesn't know is that I'm going out of town until Monday, so he can keep the car over the weekend. He was hoping that the threat of having to keep my car there Saturday would scare me off.

Lordy, lordy. How do these places stay in business?

call Chuck Tator in NY. The best car guy in North America. No lie. He had one of the oldest dealerships in the country before the auto bailouts. He is still in business under a new name, still family run.
 
I have never been to a Chrysler service department that didn't suck. They run on the SS model. Deny and hope you die. Or at least go away.
 
I will mention that possibility to the service write up person when he calls. A super-intellectuated bear thinks it's the body control module (whatever that is).


LOL okay, listen

New cars have many computers. The body control module being one of them.

You know how when you get out of your vehicle the lights and radio and such stay on for 5 or 10 minutes? Well, the body control module is the computer which controls that.

One of the reasons for this is so that the car can remember all the data stored in the computer's temporary memory before shutdown.

Sometimes the BCM (Body Control Module) goes bad (usually a solder inside breaks lose) and the BCM will not shut down modules that it is supposed to and those modules will remain powered up while the car isn't running and the alternator isnt regenerating the battery, killing the battery.

The BCM also controls the door ajar lights on that particular vehicle. Which means the BCM tells the light on your dash when to light up if it detects the sensor on your door is open. Again , a fault on the circuit board could be leading to a faulty reading.

The way to confirm this is to do two things. 1 can you do yourself, 1 you can not.

To test to see if the BCM is powering down. Unhook the positive cable and hook a multimeter up in sequence, test for voltage . You must wait 30 minutes before taking a voltage reading , because the car has to power down completely for the reading to be valid. If your voltmeter shows more than 500 milliamps with everything shut off, you have a battery drain. Pull fuses one at a time until the battery drain goes away. Start with the bigger fuses first then narrow it down from there. I strongly suspect your BCM and would start with the BCM fuse(s)

The other test will require a specialized scanner. Not the $99 one from Pep Boys, no this is a $2K piece of equipment, it can actually go in and look at the data that the BCM is receiving, as well as the door latches themselves. From there, it's a simple matter of okay, door latch says its closed, but the BCM says it is opened, either there is a bad wire between the two, or the BCM is faulty.[/QUOTE]
 
I have never been to a Chrysler service department that didn't suck. They run on the SS model. Deny and hope you die. Or at least go away.

Never had a problem when I had my Magnum. Good service, loaner cars...didn't bat an eye at replacing all 4 wheels due to a peeling finish.
 
I'm considering a muscle truck...Ram Tradesman with the 8' box, 390HP Hemi, 8-speed trans, and no other options. Too bad that's damn near $30K. :(
 
I'm considering a muscle truck...Ram Tradesman with the 8' box, 390HP Hemi, 8-speed trans, and no other options. Too bad that's damn near $30K. :(

Imagine if they made a Hellcat Ram :drool:

though I just bought a 2015 Ford F250 Crew Cab 4x4 Super Duty, My God $59K and it doesn't even heat up my lunch for me

But we have to have a heavy duty truck now that were running the farm again, and my wife isn't about to ride in something ratty.

Speaking of sport trucks though, Would be cool to see an SVT Lighting made out of the new all aluminum body F150.
 
Dear "Smarter..."

Would it be sufficient to ask the write up person, "Have you ruled out a defective BCM?"

They seem to be going to a lot of trouble to find a short in the lines. Problem now is that the defect won't manifest - the door ajar light won't come on today.
 
Dear "Smarter..."

Would it be sufficient to ask the write up person, "Have you ruled out a defective BCM?"

They seem to be going to a lot of trouble to find a short in the lines. Problem now is that the defect won't manifest - the door ajar light won't come on today.

Yes,any competent tech should know what you are referring to when you BCM.

Seriously, they should be able to plug a diagnostic scanner in and simply run some checks and check the datastream to see if the BCM is reporting a door ajar when it is not. Of course if that doesn't happen while they've got it hooked up, it can make diagnosing a bitch with intermittent issues.
 
Well...

They had my car for four days. Took stuff apart and put it back together. Lubricated some things, jiggled wires. And for reasons that no one understood the problem went away. I've had it back for two days and no problems.

And believe it or not, they didn't charge me anything (for that).

I asked him if he had considered the BCM and he said that they didn't rule it out, but didn't think that was the problem.

We'll see. Just for the sake of not waking the sleeping tiger, I will not open that door unless I absolutely have to.
 

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