Emergency Brake Light

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Nienna, Jul 27, 2006.

  1. Nienna
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    Nienna Senior Member

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    Every so often, the emergency brake light comes on in my car. The brake is not on, just the light. It usually goes off again after a couple of minutes. How worried should I be about this? Is it a signal that something major is wrong with the electrical stuff in my car, or is it just no big deal?
     
  2. dmp
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    dmp Senior Member

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    Check your brake fluid. :)

    The Master Cylinder should be on teh driver's side, under the hood, near the firewall.
     
  3. Mr. P
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    Mr. P Senior Member

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    What year, make and model car? How many miles since brake service?

    Like D said, check the brake fluid, however many newer cars now have sensors on the brake pads that will illuminate the light when replacement is needed.
     
  4. Nienna
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    Nienna Senior Member

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    Thanks guys! My husband said he'd take care of it. My suspicion is that he doesn't know what he's doing, either. However, I have been ejected from the garage. :D
     
  5. dmp
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    dmp Senior Member

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    When he gets stuck, lemme help :)

    That doesn't sound kinky, does it? :)
     
  6. fuzzykitten99
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    fuzzykitten99 Senior Member

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    it could also be the brake cable is either worn or loose. Our Caddy's does the same thing (it's a foot brake, not hand brake) and due to the age of the car (92 Seville)and repeated use over time, we now have to replace it. Right now, it is loose enough to touch the sensor and the light goes on. But Tim rigged it up with a zip tie until we can get it fixed.
     
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  7. dilloduck
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    dilloduck Diamond Member

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    good call too, Fuzzy !
     
  8. Mr. P
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    Mr. P Senior Member

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    It could just need adjustment, Fuzzy.
    Edit: On your Seville
     
  9. fuzzykitten99
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    fuzzykitten99 Senior Member

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    a while back we had it looked at while it was getting an oil change and coolant flush (as long as the hood was up) and they said it should be replaced. The mechanic at the shop we take it to even showed us that it is near snapping-it's just old and getting brittle. Problem is, because of how it is rigged in the car, it costs more in labor than the actual part. And since we don't truly need the brake (though it is nicer to park on hills and not rest on the tranny with one) we'll just wait until after we pay off some debt when my daycare opens.
     
  10. Mr. P
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    Mr. P Senior Member

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    With Rear Disc Brakes

    1. Lubricate parking brake cables at equalizer and underbody rub points. Check all cables for freedom of operation.
    2. Fully release parking brake and raise vehicle.
    3. Hold cable stud from turning and tighten equalizer nut until cable slack is removed and levers are against stops on caliper housing. If levers are off stops, loosen cable until levers return to stop.
    4. Operate parking brake several times to check adjustment. When properly adjusted, the parking brake pedal should move 5¼" to 6¾" on all except Seville and Eldorado or 4" to 5½" on Eldorado and Seville.

    With Rear Drum Brakes

    1. With service brakes properly adjusted, lubricate parking brake linkage at equalizer and cable stud with heat-resistant lubricant, and check for free movement of cables.
    2. Depress parking brake pedal about 1½" from full released position.
    3. Raise rear wheels off floor.
    4. Hold brake cable and stud from turning and tighten equalizer nut until a slight drag is felt on either wheel (going forward). After each turn of equalizer nut, check to see if either wheel begins to drag.
    5. Release parking brake. No brake drag should be felt at either rear wheel. Operate several times to check adjustment. When properly adjusted, the parking brake pedal should move 5¼" to 6¾".
     

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