Arrrgghhhh --- I love my truck, but....

[RadiomanATL]

What's this trucks future? Do you plan on keeping it for any length of time? Is it an asset to you or a liability? If it was mine, I would either make the decision to keep it, and if so, rebuild the motor. If I didn't want to put any money into it, I'd trade it or buy some new shoes and hit the shoe leather expressway.

Gotta last me 8 more months.

Talked with a mechanic friend of mine, he says it sounds exactly like a bad cat, included the overheating symptom. He said it should be OK for the drive home, since it's mostly interstate and there's enough airflow to keep the engine cool enough since the coolant system is still ok. He also said it should be OK for short jaunts to the store for a bit until he can get a sec to look at it pro-bono, wednesday.

Hmmm. That's a cheap enough repair. Certainly cheaper than an engine rebuild. Hope it works out for you.

None of the engines I'm used to working on have CCs.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vlDtP8T_5I]YouTube - Camp Sather, Iraq, Power Plant[/ame]

I'm thinking of ripping the damn thing out until it's emissions time again.

DAMMIT, and I only had to go 1-1/2 more years before it was considered an antique, and no more emissions tests.

BTW: cool video, what is that?

 

[daveman]

I'm thinking of ripping the damn thing out until it's emissions time again.

But then you'd have to replace it to pass emissions. Because if it's screwed up now, there's no way it'd pass.

DAMMIT, and I only had to go 1-1/2 more years before it was considered an antique, and no more emissions tests.

Timing is everything.

BTW: cool video.

Thanks!

 

[Mr.Fitnah]

Thermostat maybe?

But would that explain the extreme change in the exhaust sound?

Also, I should add that I think transmission fluid leaked on the cat 2 days ago*, and burned off. Probably way overheated the cat at the same time.

* = I'm busy trying to google an exhaust diagram for the truck to see if this is possible. I know I have a slooooow seep of tranny fluid, cause I have to add a quart every 6 weeks or so. I think I overfilled it, cause the sumbitch was smoking harder than Art15 at a cheech & chong show when I drove it again. Smoke went away, but I'm wondering if the smoke happened cause the fluid leaked onto the cat.

Yeah if the ignition is delayed the entire exhaust can turn cherry red .Fire coming out of the exhuast .
If the distributer is buggered you wont be able to keep it in time .it will hide being advanced and then retarded with out warning but will run .

 

[Mr.Fitnah]

I would see if you can turn the distributer by hand if it is lose and will not tighten and stay tight then may be the problem.
yes your exhuast tone will be altered.
If it is a solid state system go to step 3.

 

[HUGGY]

Gotta last me 8 more months.

Talked with a mechanic friend of mine, he says it sounds exactly like a bad cat, included the overheating symptom. He said it should be OK for the drive home, since it's mostly interstate and there's enough airflow to keep the engine cool enough since the coolant system is still ok. He also said it should be OK for short jaunts to the store for a bit until he can get a sec to look at it pro-bono, wednesday.

Hmmm. That's a cheap enough repair. Certainly cheaper than an engine rebuild. Hope it works out for you.

None of the engines I'm used to working on have CCs.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vlDtP8T_5I]YouTube - Camp Sather, Iraq, Power Plant[/ame]

I'm thinking of ripping the damn thing out until it's emissions time again.

DAMMIT, and I only had to go 1-1/2 more years before it was considered an antique, and no more emissions tests.

BTW: cool video, what is that?

"Ripping out" a catalytic converter can be more difficult than you think. The exhaust pipe leading to it usually has an oxygen sensor between the manifold flange and the cat. The metal that the converter and the pipe leading to it and out of it is made of a special bi-metal composition that is extremely difficult to weld. Yes exhaust flow restriction can cause overheating. You should check your t-stat and water pump ffirst by taking the cap off of the radiator when the engine is cold. Look down into the coolant and notice if the liquid is moving across the radiator. It should be doing nothing until the t-stat opens up then when the engine warms up there should be noticable flow. If you can eliminate the t-stat and the water pump then go to a wrecking yard and buy a used Cat. Take it to a good muffler shop and have them do the swap. It should take less than an hour of shop time. That is if you are intending to get rid of the truck. If you intend to keep it buy a new cat from your local parts house or on line. They can be pricey so shop around.

 

[RadiomanATL]

Hmmm. That's a cheap enough repair. Certainly cheaper than an engine rebuild. Hope it works out for you.

None of the engines I'm used to working on have CCs.

YouTube - Camp Sather, Iraq, Power Plant

I'm thinking of ripping the damn thing out until it's emissions time again.

DAMMIT, and I only had to go 1-1/2 more years before it was considered an antique, and no more emissions tests.

BTW: cool video, what is that?

"Ripping out" a catalytic converter can be more difficult than you think. The exhaust pipe leading to it usually has an oxygen sensor between the manifold flange and the cat. The metal that the converter and the pipe leading to it and out of it is made of a special bi-metal composition that is extremely difficult to weld. Yes exhaust flow restriction can cause overheating. You should check your t-stat and water pump ffirst by taking the cap off of the radiator when the engine is cold. Look down into the coolant and notice if the liquid is moving across the radiator. It should be doing nothing until the t-stat opens up then when the engine warms up there should be noticable flow. If you can eliminate the t-stat and the water pump then go to a wrecking yard and buy a used Cat. Take it to a good muffler shop and have them do the swap. It should take less than an hour of shop time. That is if you are intending to get rid of the truck. If you intend to keep it buy a new cat from your local parts house or on line. They can be pricey so shop around.

Thanks for the info. Coolant level in the radiator is fine. Haven't had a chance to test it while running though. I'm at work and don't really have the time or even the light to see.

Already shopped around for a new cat. About $75, so not bad. And it seems to be pretty easy to get to on my truck. Should be able to cut off the old one and clamp on the new one.

Good thing about a truck as old as mine, is that parts are usually pretty damn cheap, even brand new. Master cylinder went out about a year ago, cost $18 and about 45 minutes of my time.

 

[RadiomanATL]

Thermostat maybe?

But would that explain the extreme change in the exhaust sound?

Also, I should add that I think transmission fluid leaked on the cat 2 days ago*, and burned off. Probably way overheated the cat at the same time.

* = I'm busy trying to google an exhaust diagram for the truck to see if this is possible. I know I have a slooooow seep of tranny fluid, cause I have to add a quart every 6 weeks or so. I think I overfilled it, cause the sumbitch was smoking harder than Art15 at a cheech & chong show when I drove it again. Smoke went away, but I'm wondering if the smoke happened cause the fluid leaked onto the cat.

Yeah if the ignition is delayed the entire exhaust can turn cherry red .Fire coming out of the exhuast .
If the distributer is buggered you wont be able to keep it in time .it will hide being advanced and then retarded with out warning but will run .

I don't think it's the timing though, not acting like it.

If the cat isn't the answer though, I'll look at that next.

 

[RadiomanATL]

I would see if you can turn the distributer by hand if it is lose and will not tighten and stay tight then may be the problem.
yes your exhuast tone will be altered.
If it is a solid state system go to step 3.

Solid state?

 

[daveman]

I would see if you can turn the distributer by hand if it is lose and will not tighten and stay tight then may be the problem.
yes your exhuast tone will be altered.
If it is a solid state system go to step 3.

Solid state?

Electronic ignition instead of coil-and-points.

 

[Paulie]

Radio a clogged cat will cause back pressure and retain the hot exhaust gasses for too long, and that can cause over heating. If faster highway travel is cooling it back down then the cat sounds like the culprit, especially since you're getting an unusual sound from the exhaust.

I also want to add that you need to be pretty close to spec on the tranny fluid. It doesn't take much over filling to cause the seals to blow out.

By the way, those straight 6's can take more abuse than ike gave tina. Modbert will be long gone and that engine will still be kicking.

 

[HUGGY]

I would see if you can turn the distributer by hand if it is lose and will not tighten and stay tight then may be the problem.
yes your exhuast tone will be altered.
If it is a solid state system go to step 3.

Solid state?

Timing is rarely the cause of problems unless your timing chain or gears are worn. If you decide to experiment with timing mark the position on your dist. base before loosening the base clamp. The knocking noise you alluded to could be loose timing mechanism. If you do not have a timing light an easy way to establish proper timing is to rotate the distributor in one direction until the motor runs rough. Mark that spot on the dist. base and return the dist. to the original position. Start the motor and rotate the dist in the opposite direction until the motor runs rough. Mark that location on the dist. base. Your timing mark will be half way between those two points.

 

[Mr.Fitnah]

Electronic ignition " DI "rather than the mechanical .

 

[Mr.Fitnah]

I would see if you can turn the distributer by hand if it is lose and will not tighten and stay tight then may be the problem.
yes your exhuast tone will be altered.
If it is a solid state system go to step 3.

Solid state?

Timing is rarely the cause of problems unless your timing chain or gears are worn. If you decide to experiment with timing mark the position on your dist. base before loosening the base clamp. The knocking noise you alluded to could be loose timing mechanism. If you do not have a timing light an easy way to establish proper timing is to rotate the distributor in one direction until the motor runs rough. Mark that spot on the dist. base and return the dist. to the original position. Start the motor and rotate the dist in the opposite direction until the motor runs rough. Mark that location on the dist. base. Your timing mark will be half way between those two points.

When that gear wears down it is like a ghost if you arent looking for it.

 

[RadiomanATL]

I would see if you can turn the distributer by hand if it is lose and will not tighten and stay tight then may be the problem.
yes your exhuast tone will be altered.
If it is a solid state system go to step 3.

Solid state?

Electronic ignition instead of coil-and-points.

Sheeeit.

Ain't nothing on this truck solid state.

 

[RadiomanATL]

Radio a clogged cat will cause back pressure and retain the hot exhaust gasses for too long, and that can cause over heating. If faster highway travel is cooling it back down then the cat sounds like the culprit, especially since you're getting an unusual sound from the exhaust.

I also want to add that you need to be pretty close to spec on the tranny fluid. It doesn't take much over filling to cause the seals to blow out.

By the way, those straight 6's can take more abuse than ike gave tina. Modbert will be long gone and that engine will still be kicking.

As far as the tranny fluid, I think the slow seep is an issue that I'm going to have to address after I get the cat replaced. It's not hard, just a huge pain in the ass. I'm pretty sure it's seeping from the seal on the pan.

As far as the engine, yah, thats why I hate to think about getting rid of it. Sucker won't move fast, but it'll go on forever.

 

[RadiomanATL]

I would see if you can turn the distributer by hand if it is lose and will not tighten and stay tight then may be the problem.
yes your exhuast tone will be altered.
If it is a solid state system go to step 3.

Solid state?

Timing is rarely the cause of problems unless your timing chain or gears are worn. If you decide to experiment with timing mark the position on your dist. base before loosening the base clamp. The knocking noise you alluded to could be loose timing mechanism. If you do not have a timing light an easy way to establish proper timing is to rotate the distributor in one direction until the motor runs rough. Mark that spot on the dist. base and return the dist. to the original position. Start the motor and rotate the dist in the opposite direction until the motor runs rough. Mark that location on the dist. base. Your timing mark will be half way between those two points.

Got it, thanks.

 

[RadiomanATL]

Electronic ignition " DI "rather than the mechanical .

Now I'm rethinking myself...it may be electronic. I know it has one of the first electronic fuel injection systems that came on the market way back when.

 

[RadiomanATL]

Solid state?

Timing is rarely the cause of problems unless your timing chain or gears are worn. If you decide to experiment with timing mark the position on your dist. base before loosening the base clamp. The knocking noise you alluded to could be loose timing mechanism. If you do not have a timing light an easy way to establish proper timing is to rotate the distributor in one direction until the motor runs rough. Mark that spot on the dist. base and return the dist. to the original position. Start the motor and rotate the dist in the opposite direction until the motor runs rough. Mark that location on the dist. base. Your timing mark will be half way between those two points.

When that gear wears down it is like a ghost if you arent looking for it.

Yeah, but I don't think the rough running is because of the distributor. I'm thinking it's just the exhaust being unable to escape.

 

[Mr.Fitnah]

CC s rarely go south
year model; and make?

 

[Mr.Fitnah]

Timing is rarely the cause of problems unless your timing chain or gears are worn. If you decide to experiment with timing mark the position on your dist. base before loosening the base clamp. The knocking noise you alluded to could be loose timing mechanism. If you do not have a timing light an easy way to establish proper timing is to rotate the distributor in one direction until the motor runs rough. Mark that spot on the dist. base and return the dist. to the original position. Start the motor and rotate the dist in the opposite direction until the motor runs rough. Mark that location on the dist. base. Your timing mark will be half way between those two points.

When that gear wears down it is like a ghost if you arent looking for it.

Yeah, but I don't think the rough running is because of the distributor. I'm thinking it's just the exhaust being unable to escape.

When the timing is off part of the exhaust is sucked back into the chamber